1970 O'Day Widgeon Restoration

Feb 3, 2020
5
O'Day Widgeon Pymatuning Sailing Club
Two years ago I took ownership of a 1974 (I believe) O'Day Widgeon. The boat was free but needed a lot of work to get it back into decent shape. I had been sailing my Sunfish for the last 10+ years but with now having 2 kids I thought the bigger boat would provide more comfort and stability. I will keep everyone posted as I restore and improve my little boat.
BEFORE
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AFTER
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Oct 19, 2017
7,745
O'Day 19 Littleton, NH
BDuchon, thanks for posting and welcome to our little nautical corner of the Web. You will find an amazing group of enthusiastic and helpful sailors here. There is little more that we like than following along as someone restores their boat.
You have a very pretty little boat and I just noticed the Widgeon sail graphic is the same as the O'Day Mariner except upside down.

I am eager to read about your progress and your sailing with you kids.

-Will (Dragonfly)
 
Jun 2, 2004
1,923
Oday Day Sailer Wareham, MA
Not a 1974, I think your 1970 estimate is more accurate. The version of the WIDGEON with the wooden seats was built from 1964-1970. The 1971-83 model had a molded fiberglass cockpit with a forward deck. 1984-2004 had an open layout, not forward deck, but molded in seats that extended from the stern to just aft of the mast with a forward platform area from there forward.

Your boat nearly matches my old 1969 WIDGEON, they are GREAT little boats, that sail like big boats (I even had a spinnaker!) However, they are still a centerboard boat and need to be sailed carefully (although the Widgeon is very forgiving of mistakes) I always sailed with the mainsheet in my hand, using the camcleat to hold the tension, and theat way I could release the sheet instantly, spilling the wind and preventing a capsize. I only tipped over once in the 6 years that I sailed my Widgeon (on the mooring, sails down, I made the mistake of reaching up to adjust one of the spreaders and stood on the mast partner/cross seat........ over she went, dumped me in the drink, then daintily righted herself half full of water!).
Anyway, it looks like your boat has a little metal tag on the aft side of the forward seat/flotation tank, that will have 2 numbers a HULL# and a Class#, Hull# refers to the total number of O'DAYs built and Class# refers to the number of Widgeons. My Boat was H# 22698 C#1791.

My boat was in slightly better condition when I bought her, but still needed some TLC. The first Winter I stripped the peeling paint off the tops of the seats and stained and varnished them! Instant yacht, that mahogany was beautiful!

Here are 3 pictures of my Widgeon, the last one, "Arrival Day 08-88 is the day that we moved her from the previous owner's yard and put her in the water near our house.
 

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Likes: Will Gilmore
Feb 3, 2020
5
O'Day Widgeon Pymatuning Sailing Club
Let's talk tillers and rudders. The tiller/rudder that came with my Widgeon is an updated aftermarket part. It is a wooden tiller & rudder with a downhaul to hold the rudder in the lowered position. I quickly determined the need to add a tiller extension, tiller tamer and refinish and stain the wood. You can see form the pictures a big improvement in the looks and functionality of the tiller with the new updates. The new Ronstan tiller extension swivel and tiller tamer make this unit much more functional.

One question on the rudder length. How long should it be? I ask because when tacking upwind, at times, the boat will keel over heavily to the point the rudder lifts out of the water causing the boar to lose control and turn into the wind. I am considering making a new rudder that would increase the length by 4-6 inches. Any thoughts on the best rudder length or possibleadvers effects from such a mod?
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Likes: Will Gilmore
Feb 3, 2020
5
O'Day Widgeon Pymatuning Sailing Club
Not a 1974, I think your 1970 estimate is more accurate. The version of the WIDGEON with the wooden seats was built from 1964-1970. The 1971-83 model had a molded fiberglass cockpit with a forward deck. 1984-2004 had an open layout, not forward deck, but molded in seats that extended from the stern to just aft of the mast with a forward platform area from there forward.

Your boat nearly matches my old 1969 WIDGEON, they are GREAT little boats, that sail like big boats (I even had a spinnaker!) However, they are still a centerboard boat and need to be sailed carefully (although the Widgeon is very forgiving of mistakes) I always sailed with the mainsheet in my hand, using the camcleat to hold the tension, and theat way I could release the sheet instantly, spilling the wind and preventing a capsize. I only tipped over once in the 6 years that I sailed my Widgeon (on the mooring, sails down, I made the mistake of reaching up to adjust one of the spreaders and stood on the mast partner/cross seat........ over she went, dumped me in the drink, then daintily righted herself half full of water!).
Anyway, it looks like your boat has a little metal tag on the aft side of the forward seat/flotation tank, that will have 2 numbers a HULL# and a Class#, Hull# refers to the total number of O'DAYs built and Class# refers to the number of Widgeons. My Boat was H# 22698 C#1791.

My boat was in slightly better condition when I bought her, but still needed some TLC. The first Winter I stripped the peeling paint off the tops of the seats and stained and varnished them! Instant yacht, that mahogany was beautiful!

Here are 3 pictures of my Widgeon, the last one, "Arrival Day 08-88 is the day that we moved her from the previous owner's yard and put her in the water near our house.
Question on your mainsail. I have two main sails. Once came with the boat and the other I stripped off of a newer model Widgeon that was headed to the junkyard. The mainsail that I got with the boat runs the full length of the boom as you can see in the picture below. However the newer sail that I received is short of the boom end by about 3-4" very similar to your pictured Blue Bird. So what is the best length for the foot of the sail? Should it run the full length of the boom?
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Likes: Will Gilmore
Oct 19, 2017
7,745
O'Day 19 Littleton, NH
Any thoughts on the best rudder length or possibleadvers effects from such a mod?
You could certainly do as you propose. No experience with a Widgeon, but the rudder coming out of the water at an extreme angle can also be seen as a kind of natural safety feature. Unless you have a lee helm when heeling, and some boats do.

A problem a boat can have with boards in the water when over heeling is, those boards can begin to generate light to windward, or rather, surfaceward, lifting and heeling even more until they arrive the boat over.

Just looking at the pictures, it looks like you are at a pretty steep angle to lift the rudder out already.

Only gilly can know how much is just right and how far is too far.

-Will (Dragonfly)
 
Nov 9, 2012
2,500
Oday 192 Lake Nockamixon
All small dinghies such as Widgeons prefer to be sailed flat. If you are heeling so much that the rudder is coming out of the water, you are WAY overpowered, and either need to hike harder (preferably with toe straps) or depower the rig, either with sail controls or reefing. As Will notes, when you heel too far, the turning axis of the rudder ceases to actually turn the boat, and starts to serve to push the bow down and stern up, also because generally when you heel this far the weather helm builds and you're pulling the rudder towards you hard to try and stay straight.

Given the age of the boat, and the pics of the sails, I'd say they are old and most likely well stretched out, so sail controls to depower the rig probably aren't going to work well at all, which will contribute to heeling and weather helm. New sails are expensive and usually a hard purchase for someone trying to get an inexpensive old boat going, but are generally the single most effective thing you can do to improve the performance and handling of the boat.
 
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Likes: DrJudyB
Jun 2, 2004
1,923
Oday Day Sailer Wareham, MA
The Mainsail clew (outer, lower corner) should be at least 3-6" and maybe more forward of the boom end when sail is set up normally. See picture below. In stronger winds you want to be able to have room to tighten the foot of the sail more to flatten it and "depower" or reduce the "belly" of the sail reducing the heeling power. in lighter winds you need to have some "belly" or curve to the sail to add lift and power/speed to the boat. Under these conditions, with outhaul less tight, the boom should still be level fore & aft or have a slight upward slant with the outer end higher than the mast end. Actually, as I look again at your photo, I think that sail may be OK, but you have the outhaul too tight (yes, I used to set mine that way until a wiser, more racing-oriented sailer explained how it should be setup <grin!> part of the learning curve!) Also, there should be a cleat, located further forward on the boom to tie the outhaul to so you don't need to tie it around the end of the boom. See second drawing below, if the cleat is there on your boat, it will most likely be a standard "horn cleat" (in other words, "T" shaped), rather than the jamb-type cleat I show in the drawing. (These drawings are from the Widgeon Manual that I created.)

Looks like you have quite a willing crew! I have a lot of fond memories of growing up on boats, mostly sailboats..... At around their ages I was going out with my Dad on his 16' centerboard sailboat, by the time my Sister was that age we had moved up to a 21' sailboat (with a ballasted keel), after sailing that 21' keel boat for almost 18 seasons.... it was a learning experience to sail the Widgeon, and not have that chunk of ballast to keep me upright! I never went over in the Widgeon, but did have 1 or 2 "close calls"! I learned quick to always keep the mainsheet in hand, use the camcleat to hold the tension, but always kept that mainsheet in hand, allowing me to instantly release the main and keep the boat on her feet. Sailing without the jib in higher winds helps (raise CB a bit to reduce weather-helm) as does tightening the outhaul. I added a boom-vang as well, which allowed further flattening of the sail and made downwind sailing less scary as it prevented the boom from lifting up adding more belly to the sail!

I have a lot of respect for Brian S. and his advice, but I can say that on the Widgeon. using the sail adjustments does still help on an older sail, my original Mainsail was "original" to the boat (1969) and still worked for me from 1988-91 when I finally gave in and bought a new sail. Obviously, the sail adjustments were far more effective with the new sail, but they did help (if only slightly!) on the older sail. I am still using the 1979 original sails on my DS II, should have replaced them 5-10 years ago, but financial reality has not allowed that yet. Still, tightening the outhaul and boom-vang does help enough to keep me going!
 

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Apr 18, 2021
1
O'Day Widgeon Lanier
BDuchon- I have a 1968 that needs similar work to yours and my plan looks similar with the hatches in the fore and aft compartments. Did you clean out those float chambers and re-foam them after opening them up? Are the hatches air-tight to try to keep the foam dry? I just posted some thoughts and questions in the O'Day and Fiberglass Sailboat Repair groups on FB.

Thanks-
Jason