Hi all, I've been browsing here for a few days and really like the site. Thought it's time I jump in and humbly ask for advice. Can someone please tell me how the chainplates are attached in my '65 I32? The starboard aft chainplate is leaking. Down below, it looks like someone applied a large mass of fiberglass over the chainplate. This mass has been holding water with a tiny seepage draining into the cabinet behind the sink. I found the seep hole, and when I started enlarging it, about a pint of water came gushing out. I've removed any glass that wasn't fully adhered to the side of the hull, and now this fiberglass glob appears to be pulled away from the hull about a quarter inch. I can't see the chainplate on the port side either. Is this how they originally built the boat, or is this likely a "modification"? I'd like to grind all the fiberglass off and re-install and re-bed the chainplate. Any suggestions? Thoughts?
- Status
Stainless steel?
I had a Cheoy Lee Clipper 33 for 25 years and I always worried about the chain plates. It was always hard to keep the leaks in check. However if you have stainless steel chain plates 1/4 inch thick like I did they can take a lot of abuse. I pulled one after twenty years and could find nothing to worry about but the bolts used to secure them to the knees. My knees where solid glass and about 1 inch thick. Built like a tank. I did find several bolts that where not stainless. They where completely gone or corroded from the inside. Use a magnetic to check the plates and bolts for sure.
I had a Cheoy Lee Clipper 33 for 25 years and I always worried about the chain plates. It was always hard to keep the leaks in check. However if you have stainless steel chain plates 1/4 inch thick like I did they can take a lot of abuse. I pulled one after twenty years and could find nothing to worry about but the bolts used to secure them to the knees. My knees where solid glass and about 1 inch thick. Built like a tank. I did find several bolts that where not stainless. They where completely gone or corroded from the inside. Use a magnetic to check the plates and bolts for sure.
Gorgeous!
I've seen that half-assed method on other boats, grind it all away and start over. Never seen a boat like yours... Pretty lines! I think I'm in Love!
I've seen that half-assed method on other boats, grind it all away and start over. Never seen a boat like yours... Pretty lines! I think I'm in Love!
Yeah, I think I'll keep her
Yeah, I'm afraid that's gonna be the solution. Which means pulling out some cabinetry just to get a grinder in there. I guess I'm just hoping against hope for an easier solution. Once I grind it out, I'll see for myself how the chainplate's attached. I just want to be sure I don't do more damage in the process, or make the job substantially larger than it needs to be (which happens too easily with fiberglass repairs). My dad bought her about a decade ago. He didn't use her much and I think she hadn't left his pier for a couple years when he offered her to me this spring. His back's giving out on him and he's not comfortable sailing her anymore. At this stage she can best be described as "has lot's of potential". There's a lot to do on her yet, and I've got more than a few questions. The hard part is staying focused on the task at hand (making her seaworthy) as opposed to thinking about readying her for extensive cruising. I'm not a rich man, but I've got some experience w/ tools and materials. It's a slow process. I haven't been able to find a lot of practical info about the design. There's an Islander sailboats website that has history and specs, but their "forum" is comatose, and from info members put in describing their boats, it looks like some people aren't clear on what to call which model. (There were at *least* 2 if not more 32 foot designs made with the Islander name. Mine was designed by Wayfarer. I've actually got an original builders certificate by the "Ship's Carpenter".)
Yeah, I'm afraid that's gonna be the solution. Which means pulling out some cabinetry just to get a grinder in there. I guess I'm just hoping against hope for an easier solution. Once I grind it out, I'll see for myself how the chainplate's attached. I just want to be sure I don't do more damage in the process, or make the job substantially larger than it needs to be (which happens too easily with fiberglass repairs). My dad bought her about a decade ago. He didn't use her much and I think she hadn't left his pier for a couple years when he offered her to me this spring. His back's giving out on him and he's not comfortable sailing her anymore. At this stage she can best be described as "has lot's of potential". There's a lot to do on her yet, and I've got more than a few questions. The hard part is staying focused on the task at hand (making her seaworthy) as opposed to thinking about readying her for extensive cruising. I'm not a rich man, but I've got some experience w/ tools and materials. It's a slow process. I haven't been able to find a lot of practical info about the design. There's an Islander sailboats website that has history and specs, but their "forum" is comatose, and from info members put in describing their boats, it looks like some people aren't clear on what to call which model. (There were at *least* 2 if not more 32 foot designs made with the Islander name. Mine was designed by Wayfarer. I've actually got an original builders certificate by the "Ship's Carpenter".)
Dremel tool
Don't know which grinder you mean, but that Dremel high speed tool with a fiberglass reinforced cutting wheel will work real well and go through the glass pretty easily, while not taking up much room or threatening much collateral damage. Be sure to wear eye protection. You might be wise to replace chainplates regardless of appearance - if they last another 40 years, you'll get your money's worth!
Don't know which grinder you mean, but that Dremel high speed tool with a fiberglass reinforced cutting wheel will work real well and go through the glass pretty easily, while not taking up much room or threatening much collateral damage. Be sure to wear eye protection. You might be wise to replace chainplates regardless of appearance - if they last another 40 years, you'll get your money's worth!
It's been said before
But, have you looked at Don Casey's "This Old Boat"? Very helpful book to anyone that's planning on working on an old boat.
But, have you looked at Don Casey's "This Old Boat"? Very helpful book to anyone that's planning on working on an old boat.
Kenny -- Those bolts were probably stainless !!!!
Stainless that is isolated from the air and that are subjected to water intrusion will rust and then corrode and then break (crevice corrosiion) .... the whole process generating great amounts of rust !!!!! Stainless steel needs a constant supply of oxygen to keep it stainless and if there is no O2 and it gets wetted with seawater ..... destruction.
Stainless that is isolated from the air and that are subjected to water intrusion will rust and then corrode and then break (crevice corrosiion) .... the whole process generating great amounts of rust !!!!! Stainless steel needs a constant supply of oxygen to keep it stainless and if there is no O2 and it gets wetted with seawater ..... destruction.
Replace the Chainplates
JohnS-- While it might be a pain in the neck, I suggest you replace the chainplates ASAP. While there will be some work involved, the chainplates themselves are pretty inexpensive, probably about $65.00 each for your boat plus new bolts (ss fasteners from a fastener distributor are much less costly than those purchased at a marine store.) Crevis corrosion--which can develop on the back of even an exposed chainplate--combined with work hardening from the constant loading and unloading of the chainplates--can lead to a sudden fracture and the potential failure of the rig. (I had a similar experience on a 1976 Cal 2-29.) Before installing the new chainplates, ensure that there's no rot in the deck and/or the frames/bulkheads the chainplates are bolted to. You've go a pretty yacht that can be very sea-worthy and reliable with alittle work Good Luck! Scott Kearney s/v HyLyte
JohnS-- While it might be a pain in the neck, I suggest you replace the chainplates ASAP. While there will be some work involved, the chainplates themselves are pretty inexpensive, probably about $65.00 each for your boat plus new bolts (ss fasteners from a fastener distributor are much less costly than those purchased at a marine store.) Crevis corrosion--which can develop on the back of even an exposed chainplate--combined with work hardening from the constant loading and unloading of the chainplates--can lead to a sudden fracture and the potential failure of the rig. (I had a similar experience on a 1976 Cal 2-29.) Before installing the new chainplates, ensure that there's no rot in the deck and/or the frames/bulkheads the chainplates are bolted to. You've go a pretty yacht that can be very sea-worthy and reliable with alittle work Good Luck! Scott Kearney s/v HyLyte
Oh yeah, the dremel tool!
I've had one for a few years now (a gift) that I've never used. It just might work. I was thinking I'd have to grind the whole mound of glass away (about 8"x8" by 2" thick), but if I cut around the edges, I *might* be able to peel it off. I guess I was hoping someone with an early I32 might be able to tell me how the chainplates are attached. They're not bolted thru to the outside of the hull, and there's no bulkhead there. The 'glob-o-glass' isn't shaped like a knee. Every time I turn on the dremel tool, my teeth start to hurt.
I've had one for a few years now (a gift) that I've never used. It just might work. I was thinking I'd have to grind the whole mound of glass away (about 8"x8" by 2" thick), but if I cut around the edges, I *might* be able to peel it off. I guess I was hoping someone with an early I32 might be able to tell me how the chainplates are attached. They're not bolted thru to the outside of the hull, and there's no bulkhead there. The 'glob-o-glass' isn't shaped like a knee. Every time I turn on the dremel tool, my teeth start to hurt.
- Status