192 O'Day Mast Butt..need one
- Thread starter loismlogan
- Start date
http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/Zspar/Z_Z-SPAR.html
I have done this repair. The replacement parts are not the casting (which looks like a heat sink.) You will get a plastic spacer block, and a base plate. You will need to order 2 standup blocks with threaded studs to mount into the base plate. (Get the smallest they have, which are probably too big anyway.) You will also need 2 exit plates to cover the holes you have to cut into the sides of the mast to exit the main and jib halyards. It looks scary until you realize what's going on... Let me know if you need more info, I might have part numbers in an email to my friend (who has the 192 with Z-spar. I have a Dwyer on mine.)
I have done this repair. The replacement parts are not the casting (which looks like a heat sink.) You will get a plastic spacer block, and a base plate. You will need to order 2 standup blocks with threaded studs to mount into the base plate. (Get the smallest they have, which are probably too big anyway.) You will also need 2 exit plates to cover the holes you have to cut into the sides of the mast to exit the main and jib halyards. It looks scary until you realize what's going on... Let me know if you need more info, I might have part numbers in an email to my friend (who has the 192 with Z-spar. I have a Dwyer on mine.)
I have contacted Z-spar several days ago and gotten no response. I will need more info. We barely understand these terms, etc.....
THANKS!!!!
Rig Rite will probably not help you much to determine what you need. In my experience, they are not friendly over the phone, though they do supply you what you order well.
You will need to measure your mast to determine which mast section you have. You will then determine which mast base you need to get. It will be different than what you have, which was a casting that allowed internal halyards to exit out the base through sheaves. You will need a base plate with hinge. You will need a spacer block to make up difference between plate and the old casting. You will need to cut holes in the sides of the mast to exit the internal halyards. You'll need cover plates over those slot holes. You'll need stand up blocks to bolt into the base plate, so the halyards will turn at the base and cleat up to the existing cleats alongside the mast. If you ever wanted to lead halyards to the cockpit, now would be the time to do that, though I don't think it's necessary on a 192, or that there's much room for hardware to do this on the cabin top.
I'm not sure of my schedule, but I might be able to get a pic of the completed repair from my friend's boat. I think based on this info above, he was able to find the correct parts from Rig Rite's site, because I don't have an email detailing part numbers to him, so I think he looked up everything himself.
You will need to measure your mast to determine which mast section you have. You will then determine which mast base you need to get. It will be different than what you have, which was a casting that allowed internal halyards to exit out the base through sheaves. You will need a base plate with hinge. You will need a spacer block to make up difference between plate and the old casting. You will need to cut holes in the sides of the mast to exit the internal halyards. You'll need cover plates over those slot holes. You'll need stand up blocks to bolt into the base plate, so the halyards will turn at the base and cleat up to the existing cleats alongside the mast. If you ever wanted to lead halyards to the cockpit, now would be the time to do that, though I don't think it's necessary on a 192, or that there's much room for hardware to do this on the cabin top.
I'm not sure of my schedule, but I might be able to get a pic of the completed repair from my friend's boat. I think based on this info above, he was able to find the correct parts from Rig Rite's site, because I don't have an email detailing part numbers to him, so I think he looked up everything himself.
Haha! I found the email from my friend. He said (I colored it red):
"As I mentioned, I received the replacement kit for Z145. I measured my mast specs and they do match the exterior dimensions for Z145 (81 mm x 68 mm) so I am now more confident that I ordered the right thing.
"I have attached the picture of the parts that I received that are described below on the web site:
http://rigrite.com/Spars/Zspar/Z-Mast_steps_hinged.html#Mast_Foot_Replacement_Kit_Sm
"Z-3273, for halyards cleated on the Mast. For each halyard that was led through the Old-Style Mast Foot to the deck, an Exit Plate, Z-3273, and a Turning Block, Z-261, Z-272, or Z-300, or Z-300SA Block Stud will be required (order separately). Attaches to deck with (4) 6mm (1/4") FH screws using original hole spacing. To order, specify Mast Section.
"So, the order above did not include any rivets and I am not sure what else I need from the description above for the halyards exiting the mast."
So, based on the above text, you should be able to figure out the parts you need to order. Know that you will need to drill out 3/16" rivets in existing mast foot to remove from mast section, and then re-rivet new ones. Aluminum rivets are probably ok, but we used stainless steel because I had them. Also, I always coat stainless steel fasteners with Ultra Tef-gel before inserting into aluminum to reduce or eliminate the effects of galvanic corrosion.
"As I mentioned, I received the replacement kit for Z145. I measured my mast specs and they do match the exterior dimensions for Z145 (81 mm x 68 mm) so I am now more confident that I ordered the right thing.
"I have attached the picture of the parts that I received that are described below on the web site:
http://rigrite.com/Spars/Zspar/Z-Mast_steps_hinged.html#Mast_Foot_Replacement_Kit_Sm
"Z-3273, for halyards cleated on the Mast. For each halyard that was led through the Old-Style Mast Foot to the deck, an Exit Plate, Z-3273, and a Turning Block, Z-261, Z-272, or Z-300, or Z-300SA Block Stud will be required (order separately). Attaches to deck with (4) 6mm (1/4") FH screws using original hole spacing. To order, specify Mast Section.
"So, the order above did not include any rivets and I am not sure what else I need from the description above for the halyards exiting the mast."
So, based on the above text, you should be able to figure out the parts you need to order. Know that you will need to drill out 3/16" rivets in existing mast foot to remove from mast section, and then re-rivet new ones. Aluminum rivets are probably ok, but we used stainless steel because I had them. Also, I always coat stainless steel fasteners with Ultra Tef-gel before inserting into aluminum to reduce or eliminate the effects of galvanic corrosion.
Try Rudy at www.drmarine.com. He has everything I needed to restore a 1974 O'Day 20.
Should have your parts
Should have your parts
You can talk to Rudy, but Rig Rite is the vendor for Z-spars. D&R doesn't list mast parts like this on their site. The preferred mast section for the 192 is now Dwyer. At the time of manufacturing, they were back and forth between Dwyer and Z-spars. Z-spars has a bit of a reputation for being not quite as strong in the 222/192, but with a properly rigged and tuned boat, in reasonable conditions, it's probably not a big issue. Based on this rep (from what I've learned of it here, in fact) I might not play around with my asymmetrical spinnaker if I had a Z-spars mast. Or maybe I would. Even with my Dwyer, I moved the halyard from the masthead (as set up by PO) to about 12" above the hounds, to ensure more support for the mast section.