Im curious to see how others have rigged their topping lift to keep adjustable. Actually I wished there were more pics of deck rigging in general? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
18.5 Topping Lift Rigging
- Thread starter Wadelex
- Start date
Owners manuals are here:
Welcome to the forum! 
You must make the topping lift easy to adjust from the cockpit while you're at the helm. I've posted these three pictures, none of which are ideal, but may help you visualize my descriptive efforts.
My Cat 27's TL was similar to pic 1 but all external. Pic 2 and 3 show some detail on the connections. A fixed line from the masthead, with a small clip at its bottom end 18-24 inches above the boom. The clip holds a small block. , The adjusting line is tied to an eyestrap on boom end as far back as possible, then runs up to the block on the TL, and back down to a small cheek block which turns the line to run forward to a jam, clam or vee cleat that has a captive fairlead. These types of cleats are inexpensive, have a narrow foot print and the fairlead will keep the line in place when it isnt cleated. Use 1/4 inch polyester/dacron...and you can add a couple extra eyestraps along the boom to keep the line tidy. Unlike the pics 2 and 3, the cleat should be somewherei in the middle of the boom, so you can reach from the cockpit when the mainsail is pushed outboard. On my boat I could easily reach the TL while sitting mid cockpit at the tiller.
The importantance of the upper mast connection being as far aft a possible cannot be overstated, and of course the same goes with the lower connection on the boom. The topping lift can be an annoying piece of kit if you have a full roach main with full length battens. You'll have to slack the TL every time you turn to avoid snagging the battens. That's why you need the adjusting cleat accessible from mid cockpit.... good luck.
Pic 1
This "clamcleat" has a captive fairlead, the runs through the little hole on left side before entering cleat section, keeping the line in place when not cleated.
My Cat 27's TL was similar to pic 1 but all external. Pic 2 and 3 show some detail on the connections. A fixed line from the masthead, with a small clip at its bottom end 18-24 inches above the boom. The clip holds a small block. , The adjusting line is tied to an eyestrap on boom end as far back as possible, then runs up to the block on the TL, and back down to a small cheek block which turns the line to run forward to a jam, clam or vee cleat that has a captive fairlead. These types of cleats are inexpensive, have a narrow foot print and the fairlead will keep the line in place when it isnt cleated. Use 1/4 inch polyester/dacron...and you can add a couple extra eyestraps along the boom to keep the line tidy. Unlike the pics 2 and 3, the cleat should be somewherei in the middle of the boom, so you can reach from the cockpit when the mainsail is pushed outboard. On my boat I could easily reach the TL while sitting mid cockpit at the tiller.
The importantance of the upper mast connection being as far aft a possible cannot be overstated, and of course the same goes with the lower connection on the boom. The topping lift can be an annoying piece of kit if you have a full roach main with full length battens. You'll have to slack the TL every time you turn to avoid snagging the battens. That's why you need the adjusting cleat accessible from mid cockpit.... good luck.
Pic 1