170 Motor Mount Fasteners
- Thread starter rsmithfh
- Start date
If they are like the ones at the rudder mount, they are stainless steel sleeves with a wood thread on the outside and a machine thread on the inside. Not sure what the proper term is - wood bushing, I think. This assumes there is wood in the hull at the attachment point and that it is not rotted out.
Here's a link to an example, but you would need bigger ones I would think:
www.windstormproducts.com
Here's a link to an example, but you would need bigger ones I would think:
1/4-20 Brass Slotted Wood Bushing—Convenience Pack [50 per PKG]
Elevate your frame applications: 1/4-20 Brass Slotted Wood Bushings in a convenience pack. Ideal for flush Sidewalk Bolts. Pack of 50 for versatile use.
I'm going to go with pan head for two reasons:
1. That is what was on my 170.
2. I don't know what a pocket hole screw is.
1. That is what was on my 170.
2. I don't know what a pocket hole screw is.
Cool! Perhaps goes without saying, but I'll say it anyway: Be 100% sure that mount is solid and secure. Motors sink fast.
OK so I can't figure out how to get this motor mount to fit the motor. Has anyone cut them before? I feel like if I shave 1/2 an inch off of the transom it will fit perfectly. Circular saw?
In other news I finally figured out the jib furler and found a hardware solution for the tiller. Going to purchase the whole rudder/tiller upgrade but it says it takes 45 days.
In other news I finally figured out the jib furler and found a hardware solution for the tiller. Going to purchase the whole rudder/tiller upgrade but it says it takes 45 days.
Trim the top, as you suggested, or route out the recessed portion as needed.
A few tips on jib unfurling and furling...
Before pulling the jib sheets to unfurl the jib, wrap them around the jib 3 or 4 times. This will load a little extra line onto the furler to ensure that the jib will roll up completely and not leave a little standing proud.
When you are ready to furl the jib, point the boat downwind and give the boat some time to maximize speed. Much easier than doing it going upwind. Keep some tension on the jib sheet while you are pulling on the furling line so that it will wrap nice and tight.
A few tips on jib unfurling and furling...
Before pulling the jib sheets to unfurl the jib, wrap them around the jib 3 or 4 times. This will load a little extra line onto the furler to ensure that the jib will roll up completely and not leave a little standing proud.
When you are ready to furl the jib, point the boat downwind and give the boat some time to maximize speed. Much easier than doing it going upwind. Keep some tension on the jib sheet while you are pulling on the furling line so that it will wrap nice and tight.
If there were a recess on the other side that would allow the screw caps to mount within them, that would be good. My stock block did not have recesses, so I added them. The recess is important (IMO) so that if the screws loosen a bit the motor will still stay attached to the block. Especially important if the boat capsizes.
rsmithfh - I notice that your mount screws don't have the anti-theft type toggles that allow them to be locked together, preventing loosening. You may want to consider some method to hold those screws in place to save your having to constantly check them for tightness. Wrapping duct tape around them two of them would work, but don't leave it on or the adhesive would gum things up. Another possibility would be a section of fuel hose just long enough to fit between the two screws with the transverse pins at the end captive within the tubing. Even better if the pins were a snug fit in the tubing. Hope this makes sense.