Hey guys, I'm a new owner of a boat, a hunter 31 and the previous owner had the boat winterized including the engine. What do I need to have the engine dewinterized and set to be fully operational? He pumped the west marine pink antifreeze through it. All help would be greatly appreciated.
13hp Yanmar 2gmf de-winterization
- Thread starter Fashin
- Start date
Should start without a problem as explained by previous posters. If it does not start within the first few seconds, do not keep on cranking the engine as it will pump water and since there is no exhaust pressure, water will get inside the cylinders when the exhaust valve opens.
Not much that others haven't already said... some people remove impeller from water pump... if so, put it back... make sure air intake isn't covered... many don't bother covering though. Make sure exhaust isn't covered... some do that to prevent moisture and/or bugs/critters from making a mess in there... Make sure batteries are connected (many disconnect and/or remove batteries for the winter). Make sure intake seacock is open.... pretty much if you turn the key, and it starts, take a look and make sure water (and/or pink antifreeze) comes spurting out the exhaust... maybe not in the first 5 seconds, but certainly in the first 30... as long as water is coming out of your exhaust, your intake, your exhaust, your seacock are all open... and your battery and impeller are installed... you're good to go.
I always run the engine for 30 seconds or so on land by disconnecting the raw water hose and running it into a bucket of water. (I have a brass double-male hose fitting I use to temporarily extend the raw water hose with a piece of garden hose to make it longer.) I've never felt comfortable with finding out whether or not it will start after it's been taken off jack stands and driven down to the water. OTOH, it's always started just fine...
I took her out the other day, and everything seems to be in good order. Just wanted to make sure I don't need to flush out the coolant or something else. They way this engine works is that the raw water cools the fresh water that circulates within the engine?
Yes! You have a 2gmf. The F stands for freshwater which means your engine is cooled by a coolant that stays within the engine. It could be fresh water but it is generally antifreeze. Your engine thus has 2 pumps: the circulating pump which circulates the coolant through the engine and through the heat exchanger, i.e. the rectangular box style reservoir with a radiator style cap on the left side (when you're facing it), and the impeller pump, i.e. the small one with the small belt. The impeller pumps the seawater and pushes it through the heat exchanger reservoir through a bunch of small pipes which cools off the coolant in the reservoir. That seawater is then pushed through the exhaust hose by the pressure of the engine exhaust itself, returning to the ocean through the exhaust pipe. Have a nice season!
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A good practice that you may want to use in the future: Before starting your engine on a new day, open up an access cover and visually inspect for defects with a flashlight. Make sure belts are tight with a finger press. Look under for coolant or oil leak evidence. Make sure attached accessories like your alternator are secure. Inspect fuel filter reservoir for water build up. You should not have to check oil dip stick level daily if there is no sign of a leak under unless you have a lot of smoke normally when running. I once found my alternator pivot bolt just about out and avoided a disaster just by looking in there. Inspection takes less than one minute and just one finger tip might have a smudge from touching the belts.
"A good practice that you may want to use in the future: Before starting your engine on a new day, open up an access cover and visually inspect for defects with a flashlight..."
Reminds me of a great Yogi Berra quote (he has so many): "you can observe a lot just by watching"
Reminds me of a great Yogi Berra quote (he has so many): "you can observe a lot just by watching"
I second what Roy said about a quick visual inspection... pretty much every time (more or less) I use my engine whether it is the first start-up of spring, or 1/2 way through a two week cruise in late summer, I spend just a few seconds before and a few seconds after (literally only seconds are needed most of the time) to inspect the engine and engine compartment. MOSTLY for any signs of fluids dripping, but also lose wires, or belts, etc. Once you get used to your engine, you'll be able to learn a lot in 10 seconds. Any drips of various colors (or clear water) in the bilge below your engine can tell you a lot. Oil, coolant, fresh water, transmission fluid, or sea water, in a puddle can each tell a different story... also listen carefully. At first, of course, you won't know what sounds are "normal" for your engine... but over time, a few seconds of listening will reveal changes in hissing, clanking, splashing, whining, squealing, thumping, etc... If you see/hear/smell something different, investigate. Even taste (salt water coming in from the ocean vs fresh water in the bilge leaking from a tank onboard) can be useful occasionally.
The fact that you asked the question is both promising and telling...Maybe your best course of action is to find a guru to go over things with you..rather than unravel the litany of responses ( of which this is one), a one on one with someone who can point things out and allow you to ask questions right there and then.. good luck
Tha ks for the responses guys, I'm a wrench monkey at heart, but never had to deal with the marine diesel set ups so I'm learning new things every day. Actually this whole boating experience is really eye opening. I feel like a duck out of water at times hehe
Here is my engine and it seems that the area where the coolant goes is empty. How much should be in there? And the reservoir is full. Do I put coolant in there or fresh water?
Yes, it’s low. Fill it to the bottom lip where the cap goes. Check it after you have run it again, it may need a little more. As said before be looking for leaks, both coolant and oil.
