120 Volt Question

captcoho · Apr 8, 2013

Why not install a receptacle in the box and not cut off the plug?

captcoho · Apr 8, 2013

Non-metallic / phenolic 1 gang Handy outlet box

Stu Jackson · Apr 8, 2013

If the new central vacuum system is going to be permanently installed, why not just remove the vacuum plug and hard wire it to the new wiring from the panel? Don't remove the ground from the plug if you go the receptacle route, since you're going to be running three wires from the panel, use them all.

If you don't butt connect the wiring, then use terminal strips.

tkanzler · Apr 8, 2013

Marc14857 said:
I thought that it was a code violation to have an outlet inside of a concealed space such as a settee.

It's not an NEC violation, as long as it's accessible. Behind ranges and refrigerators is very common, as is inside a space like a microwave cabinet, or behind doors in built-in furniture or AV equipment.

I have no idea what the ABYC says about it, though.

Oh, and know that there are damp/wet location wire nuts available, with a silicone based sealant in them already. But I'd just put a receptacle on an individual (dedicated) branch circuit in there, and plug it in. Why cut the plug off a listed appliance, which also serves as a legal disconnect (though the breaker is probably close enough and/or within sight to be legal)?

Bill Roosa · Apr 8, 2013

As a general rule it is not recommended to use junction boxes when a single run can be used. I've never seen one on a boat, BTW. it has to do with voltage drops causing heat and a fire hazard as the inevitable corrosion sets in. So take the units end off and replace the wires with a single run from the panel or seal the heck out of the junction box. this brings up the issue of "is it marine rated?" if not then just about anything you do is doomed to corrosion failure.

Rick486 · Apr 9, 2013

Marc14857 said:
I need to run a 120 volt supply to under my settee to tie in a new central vacuum that will be housed there. I have a spare breaker slot on my AC distribution panel and intend to run a 3 conductor cable to the settee. The central vac has a grounded plug that I was planning on cutting off and hard wire in the new supply. I will make sure that the splice is inside a marine grade box but was wondering what the best method of splicing the cables would be. I assume wire nuts are not appropriate for a marine application.

Great idea Marc on the vac. Could you please point me to a source?

Sailvayu · Apr 9, 2013

I would just use a outlet box and plug the vac in without cutting the end off. ABYC is ok with this so no worries. Builders do this all the time. When you connect the wires to the outlet use ring terminals instead of pushing the wires into the holes they have. The holes are for solid wire. Use marine grade 14/3 wire and you should be ok. One of the biggest mistakes people make is not correctly securing the wires. Use wire ties and secure it every 8-10 inches. This should make a nice improvement to the boat.

onecoolair · Apr 9, 2013

Marc14857 said:
Rick

I picked up a dirt devil CV 1500 unit at the Defender Warehouse sale. (~ $250). There are lots of places to get them on the Internet. There is also a CV 950 model that I think is a tad smaller. I'm going to install it under the settee bench in front of the galley. Looks like there is plenty of room. Based on feedback from this thread I am going to run a separate 120 v branch from the AC panel and install a receptacle under the bench as well using marine grade wire and ring terminals as Sailvayu suggested.

Marc.... Basically same as you....This is how I have done similar set ups in the past .... Single 3 wire run from main panel breaker using approve marine grade conduit properly sized guage to a gfi outlet next to appliance . Say water pump, vac,a/c , microwave, 120v to continuous 12v dc power supply unit ,etc etc....Do not remove plug on appliance unless very-very special cercumstances..BTW... Dad is an electrician and this is what I was tought .....

Old Skool Neil · Apr 9, 2013

Cutting off the plug will just about always void the warranty regardless of how expertly you connect things up.

Benny17441 · Apr 9, 2013

Installing a box and receptacle simplifies the installation and eventual replacement of the Vacum cleaner. Having an additional outlet will also provide you with more options to operate power tools or other electrical devices.

druid · Apr 11, 2013

First, I bellieve "nuts" (ie the connectors you twist onto the ends of two or more wires) are illegal, or at least non-ABYC. If you want to connect, use butt-end connectors and do not tape (as far as I can see, the only reason for the no-tape rule is so the surveyor can see the connection).

Using the plug with work and is compliant, but will eventually corrode or come apart due to vibration and is one more thing to worry about. The best way is to open up the vaccuum, find where the cord connects, and run a wire from the dist panel directly to the vaccuum itself.

druid