To - happy - owners of an Adler/Barbour Crosby 12-volt refigerator. After professional recharge, our fridge now functions this way: 30 seconds at a time, before tripping at 35 amps. It used yo start at 30 amps, then work down to 10, as it got "momentum". On the 'technician's recommendation, wiring has been upgraded to a larger gauge; breaker has been replaced with new one. Yet, this beavior persists. Hesitate to call same tech on this job, and he has cornered the market on older Adler/Barbour units. Currently lots of fridge literatture. Maybe someone can share some expertise? Thank you, Claude
12-volt Refrigeration
- Thread starter Claude Jodoin
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Hi amp Start Up
Claude, It sounds as if you have the ability to monitor amps on the fridge. If so bleed some freon out a little at a time while watching the amp guage. If your professional OVERCHARGED the system, it will behave as you have described. I learned this approach from an OLD SALT in Panama City, FL. We did not have any A/C guages, but had an amp gauge. When servicing the unit we added freon until the amp draw was near the max for the units motor at start up. Very dirty condensor coils on a HOT START can also create unusually high amp draws. Paul
Claude, It sounds as if you have the ability to monitor amps on the fridge. If so bleed some freon out a little at a time while watching the amp guage. If your professional OVERCHARGED the system, it will behave as you have described. I learned this approach from an OLD SALT in Panama City, FL. We did not have any A/C guages, but had an amp gauge. When servicing the unit we added freon until the amp draw was near the max for the units motor at start up. Very dirty condensor coils on a HOT START can also create unusually high amp draws. Paul
Go to the Kollmann website and pose your question
there ..... The Kollmann website deals specifically with refrigeration and air conditioning in boats. You might want to discuss on that site the use of a separate 'capacitance starter' for your present 12v motor ... the capacitor stores the energy needed to overcome the initial 'starting torque' loads of the motor and once the motor is 'started' the capacitor drops out of the circuit. Inotherwords the capacitor 'kick-starts' the motor with extra energy when it tries to start, thus reducing the overall 'initial' amperage draw. Such capacitor startors are very common to start motors on AC circuits and Rich Kollmann may offer advice for a 12v capacitance starter for your set-up. www.kollmann-marine.com/phpBB/
there ..... The Kollmann website deals specifically with refrigeration and air conditioning in boats. You might want to discuss on that site the use of a separate 'capacitance starter' for your present 12v motor ... the capacitor stores the energy needed to overcome the initial 'starting torque' loads of the motor and once the motor is 'started' the capacitor drops out of the circuit. Inotherwords the capacitor 'kick-starts' the motor with extra energy when it tries to start, thus reducing the overall 'initial' amperage draw. Such capacitor startors are very common to start motors on AC circuits and Rich Kollmann may offer advice for a 12v capacitance starter for your set-up. www.kollmann-marine.com/phpBB/
Don't bleed freon into the air!
Claude, don't do this! aside from the fact that it's bad for the environment, and very illegal,there's a better way-you can get inexpensive stick on temperature guages to put on the compressor lines and monitor the running temps to see if it's over/undercharged. or, you can call in another professional, or try to borrow a set of guages. the only legal (and fine free) way to remove freon from a system is to have a professional use a freon recovery system.
Claude, don't do this! aside from the fact that it's bad for the environment, and very illegal,there's a better way-you can get inexpensive stick on temperature guages to put on the compressor lines and monitor the running temps to see if it's over/undercharged. or, you can call in another professional, or try to borrow a set of guages. the only legal (and fine free) way to remove freon from a system is to have a professional use a freon recovery system.
Cycling Novacool
On my last trip my boat's Novacool was cycling on and off. Then would not start. Had the fridge guy in and : - freon was way low, takes 5 ounces - compressor capacitor shot - needs new evaporator (always replace after freon refill) Ho hum, just 400 bucks or 0.4 of a BOAT unit. Waiting for the next thing, Peter
On my last trip my boat's Novacool was cycling on and off. Then would not start. Had the fridge guy in and : - freon was way low, takes 5 ounces - compressor capacitor shot - needs new evaporator (always replace after freon refill) Ho hum, just 400 bucks or 0.4 of a BOAT unit. Waiting for the next thing, Peter
Check For Overcharge
I had my system converted to 134 and then, it just would not start many times. Dick K said 134 was wrong for the 12 year-old AB. Should stay with R 12. I had my tech out and he evacuated and recharged with 409 blend. Same problem, not as often. Dick said check for overcharge first, based on a variety of info I sent him. Had a heck of a time getting a refrig guy out. Finally decided... what the heck,,, and bled off some myself... now it's been working like a champ for three weeks. Had to turn the unit down. Way less cycling. Heck, I'd try bleeding some off. What's to lose? Rick D.
I had my system converted to 134 and then, it just would not start many times. Dick K said 134 was wrong for the 12 year-old AB. Should stay with R 12. I had my tech out and he evacuated and recharged with 409 blend. Same problem, not as often. Dick said check for overcharge first, based on a variety of info I sent him. Had a heck of a time getting a refrig guy out. Finally decided... what the heck,,, and bled off some myself... now it's been working like a champ for three weeks. Had to turn the unit down. Way less cycling. Heck, I'd try bleeding some off. What's to lose? Rick D.
Refrigerant in the Adler/Barbour Crosby
Hi Rick,you are right on! The tech. did evacuate the old Freon, and replace it with HFC143A or R134A. Given this is an environmentally-friendly gaz, I will go ahead and bleed some out. Just got to figure out how to go about that step. As some say: "One step at a time never, never give up." Thanks, Claude
Hi Rick,you are right on! The tech. did evacuate the old Freon, and replace it with HFC143A or R134A. Given this is an environmentally-friendly gaz, I will go ahead and bleed some out. Just got to figure out how to go about that step. As some say: "One step at a time never, never give up." Thanks, Claude
No Freon in this fridge
As I wrote above to Rick, the tech, had - professionally - removed the old Freon, and replaced with a more contemporary and acceptable gaz: either HFC134A, or R134A. So, this is what I am planning to let out of the system. Got to figure otu which valve to open. Or do I need to get a set of gauges-hoses?
As I wrote above to Rick, the tech, had - professionally - removed the old Freon, and replaced with a more contemporary and acceptable gaz: either HFC134A, or R134A. So, this is what I am planning to let out of the system. Got to figure otu which valve to open. Or do I need to get a set of gauges-hoses?
Ah, those amps!
Paul, I do not have gauges, and will determine which valve to open. Of course, I am open to advice. That's what we are all here for. We'll try this out shortly. Claude
Paul, I do not have gauges, and will determine which valve to open. Of course, I am open to advice. That's what we are all here for. We'll try this out shortly. Claude
Thumb, Claude...
...I hate to admit I didn't run to the auto parts store and buy a gauge, but since I didn't have a clue what the right pressure was, I just stuck my thumbnail in the valve and bled some off, just like letting air out of a tire. It was about... this ... much. Kinda low tech, but it seems to have worked, and may have saved me the frustration of getting a tech out. Rick D.
...I hate to admit I didn't run to the auto parts store and buy a gauge, but since I didn't have a clue what the right pressure was, I just stuck my thumbnail in the valve and bled some off, just like letting air out of a tire. It was about... this ... much. Kinda low tech, but it seems to have worked, and may have saved me the frustration of getting a tech out. Rick D.
Don't do it
Hey guys, I dont want to be a party pooper, but just because R134 is safer than R12 it does not mean it's ok to bleed it to the atmosphere. Freon is a brand name not a type of refrigerant. Just trying to be helpfull. Carl
Hey guys, I dont want to be a party pooper, but just because R134 is safer than R12 it does not mean it's ok to bleed it to the atmosphere. Freon is a brand name not a type of refrigerant. Just trying to be helpfull. Carl
Adler Barbour refrigerant pressures
When unit is idle and has not been started the unit should read around 60 to 70 lbs of pressure. Upon startup the unit should come down below 30 then work it's way down to around 8 to 14 lbs. Above 35 on the low side will trip the breaker. 8 to 14lbs is the recommended pressure. That is what the techs at waeco have told me. Ive done some warranty work on a couple of units for them. When evacuating the system I DO have a vacuum pump with a recovery tank. 134a is not harmfull to the atmosphere but I do recover it for future use. Yes it can be recycled as long as the unit has not had a compressor failure and not contaminated the system. DO NOT try to bleed the refrigerant into one of those 134a canisters. They can and will BLOW UP!!!!! Tim Welsh Hunter 34 S/V Cabo Wabo
When unit is idle and has not been started the unit should read around 60 to 70 lbs of pressure. Upon startup the unit should come down below 30 then work it's way down to around 8 to 14 lbs. Above 35 on the low side will trip the breaker. 8 to 14lbs is the recommended pressure. That is what the techs at waeco have told me. Ive done some warranty work on a couple of units for them. When evacuating the system I DO have a vacuum pump with a recovery tank. 134a is not harmfull to the atmosphere but I do recover it for future use. Yes it can be recycled as long as the unit has not had a compressor failure and not contaminated the system. DO NOT try to bleed the refrigerant into one of those 134a canisters. They can and will BLOW UP!!!!! Tim Welsh Hunter 34 S/V Cabo Wabo
refrigerant guage set
FYI, I think I only paid about $20 for my guage set at an auto supply house-check around, jcwhitneys, harbor freight, etc
FYI, I think I only paid about $20 for my guage set at an auto supply house-check around, jcwhitneys, harbor freight, etc
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