Has anyone added a high-amp 12 volt power supply to run 12 volt appliances w/o using the batteries? This occurred to me becuase I am considering an icebox-to-refrigerator conversion package that does not run on AC. With battery charger turned on, doesn't this still put a tremendous load on the batteries? Other 12 volt drains include lights, radio, stereo, .... I was thinking of installing another battery switch (1/2/off) and connecting one side to the house battery switch and the other to the power supply. So my questions are: Does the refrigeration pose a problem for the battery life even if I keep the charger on (yes, it would need to be a smart charger)? Do suitable power supplies exist, and are they going to survive a marine environment?
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Ralph Johnstone
What you are proposing...........................
........ is exactly the way to do it. The battery charger is connected in parallel to your battery and any appliance loads. When the appliances are operating, the battery charger is supplying the power, not the batteries. And when the battery voltage drops slightly due to self-discharge, they will accept a small amount of current depending on the voltage differential between the battery and the charger. I hope this helps. Regards, s/v Island Hunter
........ is exactly the way to do it. The battery charger is connected in parallel to your battery and any appliance loads. When the appliances are operating, the battery charger is supplying the power, not the batteries. And when the battery voltage drops slightly due to self-discharge, they will accept a small amount of current depending on the voltage differential between the battery and the charger. I hope this helps. Regards, s/v Island Hunter
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Butch Landreneau
12 volt conversions
I am too interested in this conversion. I do believe that campers have this type of converters, but not sure if will fit this need. Also, where have you found the conversion kits for changing icebox's to DC Refrigs? Thanks...Butch WLandrenea@aol.com
I am too interested in this conversion. I do believe that campers have this type of converters, but not sure if will fit this need. Also, where have you found the conversion kits for changing icebox's to DC Refrigs? Thanks...Butch WLandrenea@aol.com
Not necessary!
Debra: As Ralph mentioned, you are pulling your DC power from the batteries and replacing it with the power from the charger. We have been doing this for 4-5 years now with our refridgeration system and it work fine. The batteries are always topped off and the beer is always cold (can't ask for more than that). Now the down side. Many believe that you should turn off your charger when you leave the boat unattended period of time. I believe that there belief is that your batteries can overcharge and start on fire or something like this. We use a StatPower Smart Charger and AGM/Gel batteries. It's not that this combination cannot fail, but you have less to worry about than with flooded batteries and old technology battery chargers.
Debra: As Ralph mentioned, you are pulling your DC power from the batteries and replacing it with the power from the charger. We have been doing this for 4-5 years now with our refridgeration system and it work fine. The batteries are always topped off and the beer is always cold (can't ask for more than that). Now the down side. Many believe that you should turn off your charger when you leave the boat unattended period of time. I believe that there belief is that your batteries can overcharge and start on fire or something like this. We use a StatPower Smart Charger and AGM/Gel batteries. It's not that this combination cannot fail, but you have less to worry about than with flooded batteries and old technology battery chargers.
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Michael McCann
12V Loads
Debra; The Stat Power 20 and 40 amp smart chargers have settings for all three types of batteries, charging cycles for bulk absorbtion and float, bulk absorbtion and off, and a power supply position that will run all DC loads, and will keep the batteries topped off. You would not need to wire a 1/2/off to this charger, the charge leads go directly to the battery terminals, and you would use the 1/2/off you have now. Michael
Debra; The Stat Power 20 and 40 amp smart chargers have settings for all three types of batteries, charging cycles for bulk absorbtion and float, bulk absorbtion and off, and a power supply position that will run all DC loads, and will keep the batteries topped off. You would not need to wire a 1/2/off to this charger, the charge leads go directly to the battery terminals, and you would use the 1/2/off you have now. Michael
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Jim Logan
Just hook it to the batteries with a smart charger
Debra - the batteries with a smart charger are maintained at their optimal condition (hence "smart charger") As long as the load you are pulling through the batteries to run the DC loads is less than or equal to the rated DC load capacity of your smart charger, it won't affect your batteries as long as you do normal maintenance, ie. maintain the electrolyte level in wet cells, and do nothing for the sealed gel type.
Debra - the batteries with a smart charger are maintained at their optimal condition (hence "smart charger") As long as the load you are pulling through the batteries to run the DC loads is less than or equal to the rated DC load capacity of your smart charger, it won't affect your batteries as long as you do normal maintenance, ie. maintain the electrolyte level in wet cells, and do nothing for the sealed gel type.
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Ed Schenck
Butch's question.
Are you asking about converting a 110V system to 12 volt on your H33? Or are you asking how to ADD refrigeration to an empty icebox? If you have 110v AC regrigeration as I do then a good inverter and good batteries is one option. If you have an empty icebox and are starting from scratch then you will want a 12volt unit. You may even want to replace your 110V compressor with a 12volt if that is what you have. Check some web-sites like Defender, BoatUS, West Marine and the link below.
Are you asking about converting a 110V system to 12 volt on your H33? Or are you asking how to ADD refrigeration to an empty icebox? If you have 110v AC regrigeration as I do then a good inverter and good batteries is one option. If you have an empty icebox and are starting from scratch then you will want a 12volt unit. You may even want to replace your 110V compressor with a 12volt if that is what you have. Check some web-sites like Defender, BoatUS, West Marine and the link below.
Constavolt
Ms Blatnik suggests an issue to which I have long known the best solution. But first may I say she is dead to rights in presuming that having 12VDC onboard appliances (and indeed the whole system) run off the dock, rather than having both 110VAC and 12VDC systems together, is the right way to go. Contact Raritan Engineering in Millville NJ about what used to be called the Constavolt series of straight-through power inverters. This is a permanent system which is better and does more than most battery chargers. The biggest benefit is that it provides a CONSTANT and SMOOTH stream of electrical power (which of all things a refrigerator or air conditoner needs most) without any dependency on the condition of the batteries. Too much draw whilst plugged in and the batteries will dip to inappropriate power levels and possibly create hassles. Not so with the Raritan system. And then of course it keeps the batteries trimmed up to full voltage AT THE SAME TIME. Just unplug and fire up. This is a big-yacht solution (we used it on Cherubini 44s) but I think an H-37 ranks with the big boys now. Look into a 20-amp Constavolt. The small power demands of smaller boats can probably get away with battery chargers but for a big 'fridge and other stuff you need a real system. Best of all your yacht remains a seagoing vessel with the ability to run the same 12VDC whether at the dock or at sea, which I think is what should be expected of a sailboat. JC 2
Ms Blatnik suggests an issue to which I have long known the best solution. But first may I say she is dead to rights in presuming that having 12VDC onboard appliances (and indeed the whole system) run off the dock, rather than having both 110VAC and 12VDC systems together, is the right way to go. Contact Raritan Engineering in Millville NJ about what used to be called the Constavolt series of straight-through power inverters. This is a permanent system which is better and does more than most battery chargers. The biggest benefit is that it provides a CONSTANT and SMOOTH stream of electrical power (which of all things a refrigerator or air conditoner needs most) without any dependency on the condition of the batteries. Too much draw whilst plugged in and the batteries will dip to inappropriate power levels and possibly create hassles. Not so with the Raritan system. And then of course it keeps the batteries trimmed up to full voltage AT THE SAME TIME. Just unplug and fire up. This is a big-yacht solution (we used it on Cherubini 44s) but I think an H-37 ranks with the big boys now. Look into a 20-amp Constavolt. The small power demands of smaller boats can probably get away with battery chargers but for a big 'fridge and other stuff you need a real system. Best of all your yacht remains a seagoing vessel with the ability to run the same 12VDC whether at the dock or at sea, which I think is what should be expected of a sailboat. JC 2
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