I am in the process of replacing the12 volt power/circuit center in my 1986 Hunter 23.5. I just wanted to add a couple accessory plugs and ended up mounting new fuse holder, new rocker switches, switching amp meter into a homemade box. I would like to use the proper color coding, but haven’t found this information anywhere. In the old box EVERYTHING was black so there’s no help there. Thanks all for the ever valuable information. When I get to that [point, I’ll post photos in the project picture forum. Bob S/V Miss Lisa
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Just Remember
that the black wire is hot, the white wire is neutral and green is ground. And the green wire is grounded only at the panel location. This is to avoid ground loops in your wiring.
that the black wire is hot, the white wire is neutral and green is ground. And the green wire is grounded only at the panel location. This is to avoid ground loops in your wiring.
DC Color Codes
Years ago I found an article in which it listed what they said was standard ABYC DC COLOR CODES. I no longer remember where I found this and have no idea whether boat manufacturers all follow these colors. Green or green w/yellow stripes - General DC grounding conductors Black or yellow - General DC negative conductors Red - General DC positive conductors Yellow w/red stripe - Starting switch to solenoid Brown w/yellow stripe - Fuse or switch to blower (if DC negative is yellow, then DC positive must be brown with yellow stripe) Dark gray - (1) Fuse or switch to lights; (2) tachometer sender to gauge Brown - (1) Amature to regulator; (2) Auxiliary terminal to light; (3) Fuse or switch to pumps Orange - (1) Ammeter to alternator or generator and accessory switches and fuses; (2) Distribution panel to accessory switch Purple - (1) Ignition switch to coil and electrical instruments; (2) Distribution panel to electrical instruments Dark blue - Fuse or switch to lights Light blue - Oil pressure sender to gauge Tan - Water temperature sender to gauge Pink - Fuel gauge sender to gauge Green w/stripe - Tilt and/or trim circuits
Years ago I found an article in which it listed what they said was standard ABYC DC COLOR CODES. I no longer remember where I found this and have no idea whether boat manufacturers all follow these colors. Green or green w/yellow stripes - General DC grounding conductors Black or yellow - General DC negative conductors Red - General DC positive conductors Yellow w/red stripe - Starting switch to solenoid Brown w/yellow stripe - Fuse or switch to blower (if DC negative is yellow, then DC positive must be brown with yellow stripe) Dark gray - (1) Fuse or switch to lights; (2) tachometer sender to gauge Brown - (1) Amature to regulator; (2) Auxiliary terminal to light; (3) Fuse or switch to pumps Orange - (1) Ammeter to alternator or generator and accessory switches and fuses; (2) Distribution panel to accessory switch Purple - (1) Ignition switch to coil and electrical instruments; (2) Distribution panel to electrical instruments Dark blue - Fuse or switch to lights Light blue - Oil pressure sender to gauge Tan - Water temperature sender to gauge Pink - Fuel gauge sender to gauge Green w/stripe - Tilt and/or trim circuits
Bob, for all your DC stuff, like on our boat,...
generally the commom (neutral, negative) is black and the positive (hot) is red. With AC white is common and black is positive. Terry
generally the commom (neutral, negative) is black and the positive (hot) is red. With AC white is common and black is positive. Terry
You know Bob, when you don't have the 'right'
color, just use what you have. Just make sure it's big enough for the job and avoid red and black, except black as ground. Especially avoid black as a power wire. Color coding is important in the automotive industry, less so in boats. Have fun, wiring is fun. Having the right tools is most important. P.S. Don't change colors 'mid harness' because you ran out of wire. Splices that change colors, out of sight, should be a felony.
color, just use what you have. Just make sure it's big enough for the job and avoid red and black, except black as ground. Especially avoid black as a power wire. Color coding is important in the automotive industry, less so in boats. Have fun, wiring is fun. Having the right tools is most important. P.S. Don't change colors 'mid harness' because you ran out of wire. Splices that change colors, out of sight, should be a felony.
Wire Color Coding
Suggest you buy Don Casey's book on sailboat electrics. He covers DC and AC wiring standards. Great book for DYI folks.
Suggest you buy Don Casey's book on sailboat electrics. He covers DC and AC wiring standards. Great book for DYI folks.
wire by the numbers
Many low voltage applications will use the same color wire and label each circuit or subcircuit with little number strips. you can buy them at any electric supply or radio shack store. This makes drawing block diagrams of your wiring easy. Ross
Many low voltage applications will use the same color wire and label each circuit or subcircuit with little number strips. you can buy them at any electric supply or radio shack store. This makes drawing block diagrams of your wiring easy. Ross
I bought mine at Home Depot
On the first film strip of my web site, at the bottom, is a shot of the wiring behind the breaker panel. See those little white collars at each end of the wires? They probably aren't needed right there because the breaker location corresponds to the terminal location on the back wall. It would be real dumb to do it any other way.
But they look cool on there anyhow,,,
On the first film strip of my web site, at the bottom, is a shot of the wiring behind the breaker panel. See those little white collars at each end of the wires? They probably aren't needed right there because the breaker location corresponds to the terminal location on the back wall. It would be real dumb to do it any other way.
But they look cool on there anyhow,,,- Status