11.0A port light replacement

[quarteringbreeze]

I've decided to replace the portlights and deck hatches on my 11.0A. After a lot of internet reading I stumbled onto Tony at Specialty Plastics. He seems to be something of a guru on the matter of marine plastics. He (strongly) suggested using acrylic over polycarbonate (Lexan). However, When pushed on a suggested thickness, he was less committal. All he would commit to was to go 'one size' thicker.

So here's the question, what have other S2 11.0 owners done for portlight replacement? I am intending to sail (this boat???) to Bermuda, Nova Scotia, Newfoundlandand, and hopefully the Carib and Europe. When I bought the boat I was concerned about the large sections of unsupported coachroof and the large portlights, and in the end, this boat may prove to be unsuitable for the sailing I want to do, but in the near term I'm moving ahead with the portlight replacement. From what Tony at Specialty Plastics says, the job absolutely must be done when 50+ degree temps can be counted on for about 21 straight days. This is to ensure proper curing/bonding of the sealant. For this reason, I am going to try to get the job done in August with the boat in the water. Not what I was hoping for, but there's nothing like an impending deadline to get the project rolling.

Looking forward to all your comments and I'll keep you all posted on progress.

RW

 

[Mark Maulden]

did you do a search on the S2 forum? There are numerous threads on this including one from me about a yr ago. Lorin in Seattle was discussing gearing up to make hatches for different S2 boats. He measured mine several months ago which reminds me I was going to send him an email as to his progress....

 

[quarteringbreeze]

did you do a search on the S2 forum? There are numerous threads on this including one from me about a yr ago. Lorin in Seattle was discussing gearing up to make hatches for different S2 boats. He measured mine several months ago which reminds me I was going to send him an email as to his progress....

thanks ,mark. i'll look for the threads, but please post whatever you find out from lorin in seattle. thanks. R

 

[BobM]

S2 documented how to do this in their letter, which is posted in the information database. Regarding thickness. As I recall they used 3/16, but some have used thicker with mixed results. On the 9.2A I would not recommend thicker as the curve required for the forward port tends to result in cracking at its apex. Therefore the thinner material is required for flexibility.

Regarding offshore, I recommend that you put thought into a system of deadlights for the ports to protect them in severe weather. Then USE THEM. My friend was on a boat that was flooded because the Captain ran afoul of a storm, didn't mount the deadlights for the large automotive glass house ports (which broke out) and should have. The Captain was washed overboard and drowned in 20-40 ft seas.

For example, you can drill and mount female threads through the cabin top and cover them a decorative or functional screw. Roger Long (a site admin) did this on his boat for much smaller ports, but the principles are the same. You can then make some sort of covers for the ports and use the screws to retain them. Perhaps some thin stainless sheet cut and bent to fit, a second layer of acrylic, plywood (perhaps thin layers bent and glued together), etc...

 

[BobM]

http://forums.s2.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=616643&highlight=S2 port replacement

 

[BobM]

Roger Long's Storm Cover project

http://www.cruisingonstrider.us/09Portlights.htm

 

[BobM]

Critical

Note that it is critical to rough up the bonding surfaces (edges) of new ports before installing. I saw a boat there hadn't and they shortly fell right out.

 

[patrscoe]

I know, not these window questions again....
Just 2 quick questions; has anyone considered alum or stainless steel framed windows to replace the recess lexan windows? I received a quote for alum framed windows for $1,900, for all 6 large windows. $1,300 for a local glass company to install lexan per original design and if I did it myself, $420.
Second question, has anyone considered installing deadlight frames?

Sorry, no more window questions or posts.

Patrick

 

[BobM]

I think that aluminum frames, unless you anodized them black, would really ruin the looks of the boat. I think that the original way is the best way to go unless you really plan to go blue water. Anywhere you are in reach of the coast you will be fine. You are far better off spending the money on an EPRIB in my opinion.

 

[Mark Maulden]

Aluminum will also sweat....

 

[patrscoe]

So, two NOs on the frames... Just looking for a better secure way of having the large windows. That's the problem too, you don't want to take away from the look of the S2, which is a fairly contemporary look, similar to many of the sailboats coming out today.

 

[BobM]

Mount normal thickness windows normally, then buy slightly oversized ones and then stick them on over them with black butyl tape and or some through bolts. If you keep all the hardware black it might look okay. But like I said, I think you should consider the purpose closely. If you are coasting, it is overkill. If you are going to Bermuda or outside of the ICW, then some sort of improvement is a good idea. It could even be inside. Or something developed for emergency use.

For example, while you have your ports out figure out how to make and fit a wooden cover for a port or ports that you could fit rapidly if one failed. Something fit to the surface with some wood strapping you could rotate inside the opening with some wingnuts to clamp it down for example.

I think that many discount being able to do something on the inside. For example, you could perhaps double up the port thickness on the inside and use a wood frame secured to the existing wood around the ports. You would probably make it look pretty nice and you could use a much thicker acrylic or put the aluminum frames you mention on the inside instead.

Just thinking out loud...