We are planning on getting a roller furler for our jib. Because our jib is a standard hanked jib and will need to be modified for the roller furler, we were thinking of getting a new 135% genoa for the roller furler. The original jib would be kept for backup. We have a 1994 Hunter 26'. Thanks in advance for your help, the support on HOW is great. Sincerely, Monte Brown
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Ed Ruiz
A Genoa must be at least 150%
I recently learned that for a head sail to be called a Genoa, it must be at least 150% (50% overlap of the mainsail). If it's less than 150%, it's still a jib. Just passing on what I recently learned. ~ Happy sails to you ~ _/) ~
I recently learned that for a head sail to be called a Genoa, it must be at least 150% (50% overlap of the mainsail). If it's less than 150%, it's still a jib. Just passing on what I recently learned. ~ Happy sails to you ~ _/) ~
Save some of your money!
Monte: Look at the archives on larger jib sails for the B & R rigs. You are going to spend a lot more money and not get a lot of return on a 135 on this type of rig. Saving your old sail with the hanks is not that advantagous either. You will need to remove the hanks if you wanted to use it on the existing luff tape (unless you are going to remove the entire furler, if and when you would use it). If you sail is not in good shape, then you may be better off getting a new sail.
Monte: Look at the archives on larger jib sails for the B & R rigs. You are going to spend a lot more money and not get a lot of return on a 135 on this type of rig. Saving your old sail with the hanks is not that advantagous either. You will need to remove the hanks if you wanted to use it on the existing luff tape (unless you are going to remove the entire furler, if and when you would use it). If you sail is not in good shape, then you may be better off getting a new sail.
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Ray Bowles
Monte, B&R rigged sailboats gain their power from
their larger mainsails. Without backstays these boats can use much larger mainsails with a larger roach. The Doyle main on your boat should be fully battened which also improves performance. Boats with backstays and a larger forward triangle area use large jib sails to gain their power. These can be a handful when short handed or in high wind conditions. Using these larger jib sails on a B&R rigged boat such as your H26 will be frought with problems of sail/shroud entanglement. Spinnackers will help probably more than most jibs. I'm no expert by any means but I can flatly say that just tuning your standing rigging is the greatest improvment you can make in sail performance. If you have already done this with a gauge instrument then you already know what I'm talking about. If not, then look in the archives during the time period of Jan. to April 2002 in the smaller boat site. Look for mast tuning articules by myself or others. We have logged probably more hours in the last year, as rookies, than most day sailers do in 3 years. I honestly think that it will take me another 2 such years to just learn how to get the best performance out of my standard factory roller jib and main. Only then would I tackle additional sails or increase sail size. The only problem with my method is that you must be STUPIDLY OBSESSED with perfection. But hell, I enjoy watching my bottom paint dry and slowly pop and fall off. Ray S/V Speedy
their larger mainsails. Without backstays these boats can use much larger mainsails with a larger roach. The Doyle main on your boat should be fully battened which also improves performance. Boats with backstays and a larger forward triangle area use large jib sails to gain their power. These can be a handful when short handed or in high wind conditions. Using these larger jib sails on a B&R rigged boat such as your H26 will be frought with problems of sail/shroud entanglement. Spinnackers will help probably more than most jibs. I'm no expert by any means but I can flatly say that just tuning your standing rigging is the greatest improvment you can make in sail performance. If you have already done this with a gauge instrument then you already know what I'm talking about. If not, then look in the archives during the time period of Jan. to April 2002 in the smaller boat site. Look for mast tuning articules by myself or others. We have logged probably more hours in the last year, as rookies, than most day sailers do in 3 years. I honestly think that it will take me another 2 such years to just learn how to get the best performance out of my standard factory roller jib and main. Only then would I tackle additional sails or increase sail size. The only problem with my method is that you must be STUPIDLY OBSESSED with perfection. But hell, I enjoy watching my bottom paint dry and slowly pop and fall off. Ray S/V Speedy
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David
Jib
I agree with Ray about the size. I would suggest that you consider the roller furling with your existing jib.
I agree with Ray about the size. I would suggest that you consider the roller furling with your existing jib.
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David Foster
What kind of sailing?
Do you plan? Getting a roller furled 100 jib, and an asymetrical spinnaker is my recommendation for cruising. The big gennies (135 to 155) can be used in races, and will point better than the spinnaker, but nothing keeps you moving to the next port in light air like aan asymetric. I also understand that the B&R rig relies on a big main - another reason to stick with a 100, (we have a 110 which lets us vary from 110 to 90 using the roller without losing shape in the heavier winds) David Lady Lillie '77 h27
Do you plan? Getting a roller furled 100 jib, and an asymetrical spinnaker is my recommendation for cruising. The big gennies (135 to 155) can be used in races, and will point better than the spinnaker, but nothing keeps you moving to the next port in light air like aan asymetric. I also understand that the B&R rig relies on a big main - another reason to stick with a 100, (we have a 110 which lets us vary from 110 to 90 using the roller without losing shape in the heavier winds) David Lady Lillie '77 h27
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Tom
One other consideration...
Hi David, With a different size sail you will need to relocate or add jib sheet leads to accomodate the new sail size. With a roller furling, you will probably want to add tracks to adjust sheet positions to maintain good sail shape for different amounts of sail out, too. My thoughts are that the jib provided is a good size, and it is small and easy enough to handle without furling gear. I have a jib bag that goes over the sail while still hanked on the forestay, although most of the time I just bag it and store below. Also rigged a simple downhaul to prevent having to go forward at noppurtune times to pull down the jib. This is almost as simple a roller furling, except you have sail all over the deck instead of rolled around the forestay! I leave a sail tie on the port side life line to tie the sail up to port to keep it under control for anchoring, etc, and pull the port jib sheet tight to keep the head from slipping overboard. I have considered, but not yet actually purchased, a cruising spinnaker. To add one is realtively simple: Halyard and a place to attach sheets blocks near the stern -- I would use the stern docking cleats on my H260 or maybe the stern pulpit, but some people have recommended against uising the pulput for fear of loosening its bedding and starting a leak. So far I have opted to sail with factory sails. If wind is light and I'm not going fast enough, I turn on the motor (but I don't race my boat, either). More often the wind is blowing plenty and I tuck in a reef. Fair winds, Tom
Hi David, With a different size sail you will need to relocate or add jib sheet leads to accomodate the new sail size. With a roller furling, you will probably want to add tracks to adjust sheet positions to maintain good sail shape for different amounts of sail out, too. My thoughts are that the jib provided is a good size, and it is small and easy enough to handle without furling gear. I have a jib bag that goes over the sail while still hanked on the forestay, although most of the time I just bag it and store below. Also rigged a simple downhaul to prevent having to go forward at noppurtune times to pull down the jib. This is almost as simple a roller furling, except you have sail all over the deck instead of rolled around the forestay! I leave a sail tie on the port side life line to tie the sail up to port to keep it under control for anchoring, etc, and pull the port jib sheet tight to keep the head from slipping overboard. I have considered, but not yet actually purchased, a cruising spinnaker. To add one is realtively simple: Halyard and a place to attach sheets blocks near the stern -- I would use the stern docking cleats on my H260 or maybe the stern pulpit, but some people have recommended against uising the pulput for fear of loosening its bedding and starting a leak. So far I have opted to sail with factory sails. If wind is light and I'm not going fast enough, I turn on the motor (but I don't race my boat, either). More often the wind is blowing plenty and I tuck in a reef. Fair winds, Tom
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