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Media added by Joe11688
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A
1975 o'day 22
will be changing to led lights both mast and cabin along with nav lights. adding solar, adding bbq, rebedding all deck hardware and below water...
Oct 19, 2023
Looking forward to V-berth.
Wow.....dream home!
Sep 18, 2023
D
MacGregor 26s
Das sind Teakleisten, die aufgeklebt, dann mit Schwarzer Masse ausgegossen und geschliffen wurden. Sieht immer noch aus wie neu.....
Aug 25, 2023
P
Marilee-Interior.jpg
This interior is gorgeous! What type of boat is this in?
Jan 10, 2023
DSCN8846
CHILD LABOR
Aug 29, 2022
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Mother of all mods 001 I call this The Mother of all mods." It turned out to be one of the most clever and easy mods I've ever to this boat. Why didn't I think of this one before? We're looking aft in that Starboard quarter birth cubby hole. That rear plywood bulkhead used to extend up into that inside combing and I remember removing it years ago when I refinished all my woodwork but I couldn't remember if there was any useful space in there. So I figured that if I could remove that bulkhead I could find out real quick. I've always needed a place to hang my boat hook and just recently my friend Del Grindle gave me a nice Forespar Whisker pole which is about 6.5' when it's closed. At any rate, I removed the bulkhead and cut it. I made a Teak cap rail for it and like a dumbbell I decided to cover it with rug. I could have done the same thing with pine! Oh well. Some days you just can't win for losing. :)
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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Mother of all mods 004 If you look to the right in this pic you can see my whisker pole laying against the side of the inside cockpit. My "pig stick" and 12' telescopic boat pole are on the other side against the inside hull.
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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Mother of all mods 003 I had bought some stainless steel hooks years ago and never used them because of the fabric headliner material in my cabin. The only quick solution for using them was to screw them to small square pieces of 1/4" plywood and cementing Velcro to the backs. It works. You need to buy the Velcro in an automotive store. Regular Walmart Velcro really isn't strong enough to hold boat poles.
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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Mother of all mods 005 I figured, what the hey, I'll hang my fishing pole up in there too.
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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DSC01189 Here's what that cubby hole looks like without the rear bulkhead. As you can see, there's plenty of room in there for long poles. You know? The great thing about storing the poles in this area is; when you enter my cabin, you can't even see these poles. The Whisker Pole is hiding behind the companionway bulkhead and you would need to take a peak into that cubby hole to see it. Otherwise you would know it was in there. These cabins are small and you need every bit of useful space that you can get. I've even omitted the mattresses that were in there to gain more space and obtain easier access to my compartments. OK,--so it's only four inches by a few feet but my gear slide in and out of there a lot easier than over a mattress. I'm even able to put my extra 26 quart cooler into that Port cubby hole. Plus the fact that my cabin seems to look less cluttered now.
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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IMG 0001 While I was working on cutting that bulkhead for my boat hook and whisker pole, I built this combination shelf/towel rack and secured it to that bulkhead by the companionway. You can see my boat hook in the pic. Hey, there's a picture of Penelope! She's my First Mate don't sha' know. :)
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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DSC00450 This is a mast crutch attachment that I had made up for me years ago by a marine metal fabricator. I made the wooden crutch and later install a small roller in it. The weight of the mast is being supported by the 90 degree 1" base fitting which is screwed to the cockpit sole just in front of the self bailing well.
Joe11688
Feb 21, 2013
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IMG 0006 I needed to move my roller furler drum control line cleat to a spot on the combing where I could reach it easy for single handing. These boats came with a regular horn cleat on the Starboard corner of the cabin. Not good, IMO. The cleat in the pic is a used jam cleat which I picked up real cheap in a marine consignment shop in Newport RI. You only need to take one turn of the line around the cleat and it should jam. The cleat needs to be mounted at a slight angle for this to work though. I had to mount the cleat straight because the combing is too narrow, but adding a single sheave to my stern rail provides that needed angle provided that your wrap the control line around the jam cleat clockwise.
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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DSC01042 The curved pipe that the welder made up is about 30" high from the top of the transom and it leans forward in order for the mast crutch pipe to fit in the 90 degree base flange on the sole plate with the pipe straight up and down. The guy did a superb job I think and he only charged me $230. The straight mast crutch pipe stows pulls out of the four way fitting and is stowed down below in one of my settee compartments when not in use.
Joe11688
Feb 21, 2013
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IMG 0007 Here's a better pic of the cleat. The long section of the cleat is where it jams or snubs off the line. This is great if you need to reef your Gennie.
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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DSC01108 I used to attach my yacht ensign to my backstay years ago till I got an idea of making a flag staff out of a short 1" S.S. pipe. I took the pipe to the marine fabricator one day and had him put a bend in it for me. I made a round cap out of a piece of Teak and attached it to the top of the staff and bored a hole in the other end of the pipe for the Fast Pin to hold it to my fore way fitting. It came out real nice. I keep the flag attached to the staff and I usually remove the staff and stow it in the cabin when the boat is on the mooring.
Joe11688
Feb 21, 2013
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IMG 0009 I mounted single sheaves to the lifeline stanchion bases for the control line. If you're thinking of buying a furler, figure on getting enough line to go back to where ever you want your cleat plus what you need for wraps around your drum when the sail is pulled out.
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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IMG 0005 The only way I could gain access to the nuts and bolts that hold the jam cleat was to install a 4" Beckson Deck Plate in my fuel locker. You can see it in the pic. I even have access to my stern cleat now. I think I paid $4.00 for the deck plate and $2.00 for the cleat at that same marine consignment shop. Such a deal! :)
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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Taking the mast down 001 Here's where the "Lineman's Rolling Hitch" really comes in handy. In the pic, I have my vinyl furler luff tied off to my Gin Pole with this hitch wrapped around the luff a couple of feet up over the Pole.
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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Taking the mast down 005 The Rolling Hitch is tied to the luff and the knot can be slip up or down very easy until tension is applied to the standing part of the line. I usually slide it up so that it's about 1.5' above the Gin Pole. I also tie this rope around the Gin pole about 2/3s of the way out beyond the mast. The Jib Halyard needs to be connected to the top of the Gin Pole and the Boom Vang needs to be taken up so that it is applying the down tension to the bottom end of the Gin Pole. With the hitch tied to the luff, I can wrap the line around the Gin Pole and try and pull the slack out to get the luff nice and tight. Then I take a round turn of the line around the Gin Pole and put two half hitches on the line. The round turn will keep the half hitches from jamming when you go to remove it. The next step is to take the excess line around the Vinyl luff and entrap it to the Gin Pole by using a couple of half hitches tied around the Gin Pole. All we're doing here is keeping the Vinyl luff secured close the the Gin Pole to prevent it from flopping around.
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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DSC01007 I was in Rudy's shop one day many years ago and he showed me this centerboard pendant line shackle and told me that it would be a better shackle than the one that came with my boat. It has a small spool where the braid line is spliced which cuts down on chafing. I bought the shackle and did the braid splicing myself with the directions in front of me of course.
Joe11688
Sep 16, 2009
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Taking the mast down 004 In this pic you can see the line going around the Vinyl luff and the two half hitches tied around the Gin Pole. The round turn with the two half hitch are behind the Vinyl Luff in the pic and can't be seen. If you want to raise/lower your mast with a roller furler all by yourself, this is a pretty nice way to do it because the furler will stay put all the way up or down and this is what you want. Otherwise, if the furler gets loose and goes over the side, so goes your mast.
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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Detachable step mod 001 Here's the sketch. I hope you can read it. This is probably one of my better mods that I feel was very successful which is more than I can say for some of the other mods I have done to my boat through the years.
Joe11688
Jun 28, 2012
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005 This is what I call a mod of necessity. I made up this permanent extrusion last year. It's a long story but in essence what happened was the bottom of my mast rotted out and I had to cut 2" off it and make up the difference with some material that I've never used before.
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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DS 1 The long wooden blocks sit squarely on the uprights and provide a strong solid base for the step. Question: Why have a detachable step in the cabin? Answer: The area behind this step was designed for storage of a 48 qt cooler but in order to get it in this area, I had to remove the cushions on the Starboard side and slide the cooler in behind the step. Now, I only have to remove the step and lift my 50 qt cooler over the uprights and put the step back in place.
Joe11688
Jun 28, 2012
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006 A marine welder looked at my mast and told me, "to fix that mast, the labor alone would be about $300." I thought to myself, "I don't think so." My mast is Z-Spar and they don't make a casting for this mast that would work for me. He told me that I'd have to cut at least 2" off the bottom of my mast. I would need to make up 2.25". When you have a problem like this you need to think outside of the box. He's thinking, "weld" with dollar signs rolling around in his eyes, and I'm thinking, "just make up 2.25" between the mast and the upper hinge plate." That board under my Tabernacle is a piece of Trex that I used to replace the old Teak board that I had under it. I use stainless steel wood screws to secure the extrusion to the mast. I'm also using Nylon washer to insulate the screws along with a small dab of Never-Seize.
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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DS 2 The dogs are adjustable for tightness.
Joe11688
Jun 28, 2012
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DSC01267 This isn't the original mast tabernacle that came with my boat when I bought it new. It came with an el cheapo French made cast Aluminum extrusion with a small sheave at the bottom for the internal Jib halyard to pass through and I hated this set up with a passion. After losing my mast back in the 1990s out of Newport RI, I had Rig-Rite in Warwick RI make me up a new mast. This time I wanted it made up to my specs and that included a stainless Steel hinge plate. This plate is a Dwyer and the utility plate is a Kenyon, I think. He told me to mount a block on the cabin to make up up 1-1/8" under the hinge plate so that my upper stays would fit. He gave me the plates and I mounted them to a 5"X7" Teak block like what you see in the pic. The rigger had to make a mast plug to attached the upper plate to the bottom of the mast. I wish he'd have made it out of Aluminum instead of Stainless Steel. Years later my mast started corroding and I had to take it to a marine welder. You can see in the pic where he welded, but the whole bottom of the mast was thin and getting ready to blow out.
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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DSC01385 I've got about six of these containers which are chock full of can goods and dry food goods. I usually buy it in the spring and store it in the containers and keep replenishing the food stuff as needed during the season.
Joe11688
Feb 22, 2013
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