Wheel Pilot
- Thread starter paulj
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My fears were confirmined, the control panel is too high. I tried to remove it, but it is sealed with silicon and I don't think I can free it without damage. Paulj, does your controll lever ingauage completely and lock down, I don't see how it could without hitting the C.P.?
Tom
Tom
I finally got the engine C.P. off and re-mounted ~2" lower, still had to remove ~1/2" of the end of the control lever. I believe I can feed the motor cable into the C.P and then drill a hole in the back to connect. This will keep me from having to drill a hole from the aft birth up into the starboard pedestal guard.
With the course computer mounted just below the folding bracket that supports the nav-table, the motor cable was just long enough when snaked up through the control panel and out the back to connect to the motor. Most of the wiring is now complete, just need to set the controller in the navpod. The only wiring left to do is to run the SeaTalk between pods, and unfortunately this will require splicing because the connectors are too big to snake through the pedestal guard tubing. The other wiring to do is for the st60+ wind transducer cable down the mast, and I'm not looking forward to going up the pole. There is an existing wire coiled at the bottom of the mast support pole. I thought it was (5) wire, but I checked again, and it is only (4), so if it runs all the way to the top I will use it as a pull. Not sure what I'm getting into up there. Has anyone ever unstepped their mast and taken pictures of the mast head?
She's set to launched on Friday. I will take some pics to show.
She's set to launched on Friday. I will take some pics to show.
Thanks guys for providing these great pictures!!!
Yea, the only hope I have for success is if the existing (4) wire cable goes all the way up and is terminated outside the cap. If it is and is free to pull, then I can use it to pull the new (5) wire back down. Don't know what the (4) wire would be for originally?
Paul, I reviewed your pic of the inside of your pod and the second instrument from the left has (5) wires. Could it have been originally commissioned with a transducer that uses (4) wires? I'm the second owner and I asked about this at settlement, the only response was he didn't like wind meters, used a hand held.
Yea, the only hope I have for success is if the existing (4) wire cable goes all the way up and is terminated outside the cap. If it is and is free to pull, then I can use it to pull the new (5) wire back down. Don't know what the (4) wire would be for originally?
Paul, I reviewed your pic of the inside of your pod and the second instrument from the left has (5) wires. Could it have been originally commissioned with a transducer that uses (4) wires? I'm the second owner and I asked about this at settlement, the only response was he didn't like wind meters, used a hand held.
Wires coming down mast to below deck.
Anchor light........+red -yellow
Steam light........+green
Running light......+white
Steam and run light common ground....-black
Seperate cables coming down mast to below deck.
TV antenna
Wind
Radio
paulj :troll:
Anchor light........+red -yellow
Steam light........+green
Running light......+white
Steam and run light common ground....-black
Seperate cables coming down mast to below deck.
TV antenna
Wind
Radio
paulj :troll:
How much trouble was it to move the CP?
Tom, To move your control panel, what all was involved? Did you have to cut the pipe the comes up from the deck?, When you moved the CP down did you now have screws holes and such in your pedestal from where the CP was?
Tom, I do like your idea of running the engine wire through the engine CP as it may be cleaner. Also like that you mounted the computer under the nav station where it is pretty much out of the way.
Paul, In reviewing your install, how tight is your motor to cut-off to wheel brake. Mine were all pretty tight, and that may necessitate moving CP down. Also went and re-looked at your RPS and I am starting to like your set up more and more as I worry about a stbd side mounting with my cockpit shower and other stuff stowed on there could jam the RPS.
Paul, Tom, I started the actual install of my AP yesterday and hit a few snags.
Tom, To move your control panel, what all was involved? Did you have to cut the pipe the comes up from the deck?, When you moved the CP down did you now have screws holes and such in your pedestal from where the CP was?
Tom, I do like your idea of running the engine wire through the engine CP as it may be cleaner. Also like that you mounted the computer under the nav station where it is pretty much out of the way.
Paul, In reviewing your install, how tight is your motor to cut-off to wheel brake. Mine were all pretty tight, and that may necessitate moving CP down. Also went and re-looked at your RPS and I am starting to like your set up more and more as I worry about a stbd side mounting with my cockpit shower and other stuff stowed on there could jam the RPS.
Hey RP,
I'm pissed I forgot my camera, so I could tell the story easier, but I will need to struggle with my bad typing.
The C.P. will need to be moved down so that the clutch lever will move freely and to allow clearance for the gray wheel pilot bracket. Here is the trick; it is glued with sealant so first remove the (8) front and unscrew the (4) screws that hold it to the pedestal. Then screw the front back on. While using a long thin spatula rock the C.P carefully back and forth while pushing the spatula into the joint. Be patient it will eventually release. If you try to do this with out the front installed you will probably break it. The front is providing stiffness. You will not need to cut the tube that the wires run in, when you move the C.P. down ~2" it will just protrude further into the C.P., no problem. Re-drill the holes in the back of the C.P. to match the existing holes in the pedestal, or drill new ones, while paying attention the square-ness, there is very little room between the wheel and the C.P.
I still needed to cut ~.5" off the end of the clutch lever to provide clearance.
Ya just kinda have to fudge this thing in there.
On my 310 there is no hole drilled from the aft cabin up into the starboard pedestal guard tube, so I used a fish tape and was able to get the motor wire down the C.P. tube after first running it through the hole I drilled in the back of the C.P.
I chose this location for the computer based on wire access. You can remove the little cubby under the stove and that will provide access to feed wires through the holes drilled in the fiberglass just to the right of the computer.
I have some reservations about where I mounted the FluxGate compass, under the sink. It's not the sink I'm worried about it is the possibility of permanent magnets in the water and sump pump motors within proximity. I really need to get a compass and see if it work accurately there. I may end up having to move it to where Paul' mounted his.
I mounted the RPS just behind the water heater, the way Maine Sail mounted his, but I created my own bracket. I needed to shorten the steering stop cables to ensure I did not drive the sensor beyond it's travel limit.
I will try to remember to take pictures this coming weekend when we launch.
Some times I'm not sure what you are talking about.
I still needed to cut ~.5" off the end of the clutch lever to provide clearance..........?
ix:
:neutral::troll:
I still needed to cut ~.5" off the end of the clutch lever to provide clearance..........?
ix::neutral::troll:
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Sorry, I'm not very good with words.
You may, if I had moved the C.P. down just a little further I may have been able to avoid having to do that, but it was no big deal. I used a dremel and just nipped the end off. The main reason I moved it down was that there was no way to mount the
gray wheel pilot bracket. The post did not line up with the hole.
You may, if I had moved the C.P. down just a little further I may have been able to avoid having to do that, but it was no big deal. I used a dremel and just nipped the end off. The main reason I moved it down was that there was no way to mount the
gray wheel pilot bracket. The post did not line up with the hole.
OK, This now looks a lot easier.
I was dreading a little bit opening the engine CP, but after seeing the pictures it is a lot simpler. It also looks pretty simple now that I see it to move the CP down. I also like the idea of threading the AP engine wire through as that should be a lot easier than trying to drill into the stanchion. Pictures really seal the deal.
I was dreading a little bit opening the engine CP, but after seeing the pictures it is a lot simpler. It also looks pretty simple now that I see it to move the CP down. I also like the idea of threading the AP engine wire through as that should be a lot easier than trying to drill into the stanchion. Pictures really seal the deal.
Witzend,
I was lucky, the original rigger left a pull wire from the base of the compression post up to the masthead. I used it (with a snake) to pull the spin halyard, then left it there in case I ever need it again. Why he had the foresight to rig it all the way down to the base of the post, but also somehow managed to wrap the main and jib halyards 5 times around each other is an unknown?
I was lucky, the original rigger left a pull wire from the base of the compression post up to the masthead. I used it (with a snake) to pull the spin halyard, then left it there in case I ever need it again. Why he had the foresight to rig it all the way down to the base of the post, but also somehow managed to wrap the main and jib halyards 5 times around each other is an unknown?
Ray
If you drilled the right holes in wheel pilot everything will fit....if not double check.
paulj :troll:
If you drilled the right holes in wheel pilot everything will fit....if not double check.
paulj :troll:
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