Repowering my H26

[Fred]

I spoke to one H26 sailor this past summer who built new brackets that allowed for the motor to be mounted perpendicular to the boat. I do not recall exactly why he went through the effort but I believe that it had something to do with tilting the motor up parallel to the boat centerline and the clearances in the engine well. I suppose that it would also prevent dragging somewhat when tilted. This would require the two brackets to have different dimensions. Something to consider if you are going to manufacture brackets anyway.

 

[Fred]

So it appears that there are three main mounting locations for a remote control box on a H26. 1) on the starboard cockpit seat, 2) on the stern rail (above the rudder) and 3) on the starboard stern rail seat. For those who have these configurations, do you mind telling me the length of control cables that you use? Yamaha seems to sell them in 1 foot increments over 4 feet. Perhaps all configurations can use the same length so I can experiment with them all.

 

[John23883]

I spoke to one H26 sailor this past summer who built new brackets that allowed for the motor to be mounted perpendicular to the boat. I do not recall exactly why he went through the effort but I believe that it had something to do with tilting the motor up parallel to the boat centerline and the clearances in the engine well. I suppose that it would also prevent dragging somewhat when tilted. This would require the two brackets to have different dimensions. Something to consider if you are going to manufacture brackets anyway.

Yes, they get the motor perpendicular to the water and backs the motor up a bit as well. The two brackets are identical.

 

[John23883]

So it appears that there are three main mounting locations for a remote control box on a H26. 1) on the starboard cockpit seat, 2) on the stern rail (above the rudder) and 3) on the starboard stern rail seat. For those who have these configurations, do you mind telling me the length of control cables that you use? Yamaha seems to sell them in 1 foot increments over 4 feet. Perhaps all configurations can use the same length so I can experiment with them all.

The key is to make sure the cables don't kink or have such a tight radius that the cables have too much friction because they are rubbing on the outer covering. I will measure in a few days, but I would guess the remote and the motor are less than 18 inches apart and the cables are around 6 feet or more.

 

[Fred]

Yes, they get the motor perpendicular to the water and backs the motor up a bit as well. The two brackets are identical.

I may not have have described it clearly. My boat has the stock SS brackets and the outboard mount is not at right angles with the boat centreline. The gentleman I mentioned essentially extended the outside bracket to make the mount perpendicular with the boat centreline.

 

[John23883]

Got it. Since the motor pivots, it doesn't seem to be a problem to get it parallel to the centerline. I would be a little worried about making the far bracket so long that it has more leverage to pull on the fiberglass hull. I already has a crack in the gellcoat of the outboard mount because it stands higher than the inboard one.

 

[dewhunter]

I used 4 foot control cables and have found them to be the perfect length, no tight radius or excessive length. I did have to shorten the electrical cord as it only comes in one very long length. As to the motor mount issue, I also had flexing of the mount and the transom fiberglass. My solution was to reinforce the transom mount area with SS plates and build a more square to center-line set of mounts that are longer and higher than the original. The motor now is positioned 2" higher and almost 2" closer to the transom. All flex, twist and bounce is now gone. G.

 

[Fred]

Got it. Since the motor pivots, it doesn't seem to be a problem to get it parallel to the centerline. I would be a little worried about making the far bracket so long that it has more leverage to pull on the fiberglass hull. I already has a crack in the gellcoat of the outboard mount because it stands higher than the inboard one.

It's true about being able to pivot the motor to get it aligned while operating. When my motor is tilted up while sailing it will drag somewhat while heeled on a port tack. Aligning the motor mount would probably provide a little more clearance from the water.

 

[Fred]

The power tilt and electric start take a lot of work out of boat handling on the dock and at anchor. I have never needed the outboard to steer with the tiller to get into tight or complicated places so I have no experience. Here is a photo of my set-up. I also have a tiller extension so sitting on the rail seat and driving works well. G

DewHunter...
Based on your installation, if you had the option, would you prefer to have the handle on the cockpit side of the control box with forward in the down direction? Seems to me that would make it more convenient when standing in the cockpit.

 

[Fred]

That seems very practical. I was looking at a Yamaha 703 controller, it didn't seem to have that range of motion.

The Yamaha 703 controller does in fact move all the way to horizontal in the forward direction. Yeah!

 

[Fred]

It's true about being able to pivot the motor to get it aligned while operating. When my motor is tilted up while sailing it will drag somewhat while heeled on a port tack. Aligning the motor mount would probably provide a little more clearance from the water.

I was at my boat today. The stock motor mounting board is actually at quite an angle with respect to the centerline of the boat. With the motor tilted up, especially for an extended 25 inch shaft, the motor would be a lot less likely to drag if the board were mounted perpendicular to the centerline of the boat. If I were rebuilding the brackets I would seriously consider making the inner bracket shorter and the outer bracket longer so as to make the mounting board perpendicular. I can't see that it would appreciably add to the stress on the transom.

Has anyone made such brackets???

P.S. I found and added a picture that I took last summer of a H26 that had a modified motor mount which was perpendicular to the boat centerline. I do not recall the boat or owner's name.

 

[Bob 04 H260]

Fred, it looks like you are getting a lot of good advice on this project.

Jim Kelly added a remote controlled electric start motor to his boat, you might want to look at it. I don't know what the difference is between his motor mount bracket and the one used on your model.

I converted a Honda tiller motor to a remote control model by simply ordering the parts over the Internet. The Honda dealer told me I could not do it, "trade in the motor". It only cost $124 and a few hours of my time. Could you do that with your current motor ?

I once saw a Yamaha outboard with the original tiller handle remotely mounted on the pushpit. The owner told me he bought it from a Yamaha dealer, it was factory product.

Yamaha makes a very good reliable motor. I've seen the Mercury "Big Foot" models used on these boats and was impressed. I bought a Honda because they made a motor for sailboat use, the gearing, prop, and a 13A alternator were what we wanted.

Having the motor and rudder turn together makes life easier.
Good luck, Bob

 

[dewhunter]

Unfortunately Fred the controller handle has only one mounting position due to the gear lock out feature. That being said I would have liked the handle in the vertical position with a more intuitive forward for forward motion. I could have flipped the controller around to locate the handle inboard but this created another obstruction to movement (hazard) in the already small cockpit. With the long/short motor mount to square the motor to center-line, I found that the outboard comes clear of the water on all points of sail and powers the boat more like a larger inboard engine boat. I like the consistency of steering under power or sail and I don't have to adjust to different turning radiuses at the dock or anchorage. The 13amp charging verses the 5amp is a bonus if you like to anchor out for a night or two. G

 

[Fred]

With the long/short motor mount to square the motor to center-line,

Do you have more details about your motor mount installation?

 

[dewhunter]

I built my mounts out of 1/8 2" SS angle and thru bolted them into a 1/8 backing plate on the inside of the transom. You will need to do this because the transom is quite weak and tends to flex. The inboard mount has less set-back than the original mount and both mounts are higher on the transom. The first photo shows the original mount in stock location with an aluminum mount board. (not good vibrations) All other mount boards are a laminate of plastic with SS core for strength, 1/2 SS bolts used thru out entire project.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Dehunter;
When I hear people powering with a motor over 10 hp, many do not realize the it does not take much to move a trailerable or smaller sailboat as they are displacement hulls, not planning hulls. Therefore the design of transoms on the smaller sailboats are not beefed up like power boats. You are hitting on a point with the four stroke engines that are heavier vs. the older style 2 stroke of years ago and if going with the 8 which is basically that of a 9.9 with modification to the carb which is the only difference, suggestion of backing plates inside is a good one.

 

[Fred]

Was at the boat today checking out how to mount my motor control box. Thought occurred to me that one possibility is to mount on underside of starboard stern rail seat. This would make it quite accessible and put it at a convenient height when standing at the helm for docking etc. The controller would be horizontal but I think that the handle motion would be quite intuitive i.e push handle away to throttle up in forward direction. When not in use the handle can be moved to full forward direction which would put it out of the way. This location hides the bulk of the controller and makes for an easy, short cable run to the motor.

 

[caverun]

Here's how I mounted my remote control for a Honda on a 240. Cut starboard to fit rail, attached with 3 Lifesling rail brackets. Cables routed under stern seat and down. Huge improvement on a 240.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

The 240 and 26 are different. Caveerun, good job sir. Wish you were closer but even though I am off I-64, it is about 4 hour tripo for me to you. If going east and you need a place to stay, I am near Clifton Forge, VA

One thing on the 26, do not place that control close to the floor and the place you are suggesting is where I use to put them sometimes. Just make sure it is behind the rear berth bulkhead and you would need to take that bulkhead out when installing. it is a matter of pulling the screws out and then removing the bulkhead but it is tightly held.

 

[Fred]

I installed the control box and did not need to remove the interior panel. I could stick my head through the access panel and easily see the mounting screws.