I don't leave that seacock open when the boat is at the slip which means it has to be opened and closed every time we go out. Since it is located under aft berth, that means raising/moving the cushion/mattress and then raising the cover enough to reach the handle. I wonder if anyone has made a mod, probably a door that allows reaching in to open and close seacock from the side?
Raw Water Seacock
- Thread starter wufibugs
- Start date
I assume you are talking about the seacock to the head?? Not sure what boat you have but on my 2003 Hunter 306 I can get to the seacock valve through a door that accesses the engine compartment located in the aft berth. The valve handle is hard to see and its a reach to get to it but it is easier than under the berth
Should have included a picture to show the problem. The raw water seacock is about even with the transmission under the aft berth which covers the trans and shaft directly behind the engine compartment. A handle extension would not help here. The objective is to be able to reach in and get at that handle without lifting anything above it. Thought of a small doggie door with a rubber iris, but that would probably allow more engine noise below decks.
I do endorse closing the "head" intake valve when the boat is left unattended as the "head" internal seals and valves are not easily inspected and can fail without notice. Regarding the raw water intake valve for the engine I do not feel the urgency or concern and do tend to keep it open unless I'm travelling out of town. I rely on frequent inspection of the hoses, clamps, strainer and the thru-hull and valve fixtures. During those inspections I will close and open the valve a couple of times to exercise it. I also check that the wooden plug is in place and ready to be used. The reason that I do not like closing the raw water intake valve besides access is not having to worry about forgetting to open it and burning the impeller.
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[QUOTE... Since it is located under aft berth, that means raising/moving the cushion/mattress and then raising the cover enough to reach the handle. QUOTE]
That's what I do on my B323. It's just part of the proceedure I live with.
By the way, here at my marina a boat sunk at the dock on December 24th. Have not heard the cause yet. It was floated and towed off - to be hauled out, I'm sure. On Xmas Eve, no less. Merry Christmas.
That's what I do on my B323. It's just part of the proceedure I live with.
By the way, here at my marina a boat sunk at the dock on December 24th. Have not heard the cause yet. It was floated and towed off - to be hauled out, I'm sure. On Xmas Eve, no less. Merry Christmas.
On my 28.5 yes, I gotta lift the mattress and lift the board to get to the raw water valve. I was considering the same thing and an "old salt" sail instructor and friend told me she did not recommend that. Bring a stick and flashlight, prop it up, use the opertunity to inspect the transmission, shaft seal, engine, inlet water filter, and hoses for leaks and stuff wrong. Also look for oil under the engine. It's bad she said to bring one of your "guests" (she said smirking) for a day of sailing/anchoring then cancel and eat out instead because you found something wrong. It's worse to go out and the forced to be waiting for a sea tow boat for hours or worse an emergency pump-out at sea.
Not sure how likely it is to have a prop shaft leak or bad hose or any of those things go wrong. But it makes sense that tiny seeps or minor leaks probably would get worse with the engine running and vibrating. It sounded like good advice.
Not sure how likely it is to have a prop shaft leak or bad hose or any of those things go wrong. But it makes sense that tiny seeps or minor leaks probably would get worse with the engine running and vibrating. It sounded like good advice.
Well, I might be able to shrug off the ounce of safety inherent in the mandatory inspection that goes with opening the seacock every time the boat leaves the slip, but another one to close it? I'm thinking a good long stare at the shaft coupling and dripless shaft seal every 10 outings should be enough.
There are modern systems that allow for seacocks to be operated electrically. I can't remember what they're called but I know a guy who sells and installs them. The system is also valuable in that you can add (or just use alone) an indicator for reporting the position of the handle without your having to look at it. If you have an N2k buss in the boat, this will be a no-brainer.
I have a policy of turning them all off whenever I leave the boat. I don't have AC and my bilge-pump outlets are high enough to not need them.
'Prudent pessimism is the mark of a responsible yachtie (and private pilot).' --me.
I don't like the idea of having to burrow into an under-bunk area to get to a crucial seacock. The engine inlet is one of the most vital on the boat. Not only can you not run the engine without its being open, but its hose can be exposed to fuel and oil spills as well as to heat, none of which are good for water hose, and it can fail-- usually when it's hot, which means when the engine is running, which means at the worst possible time to have it fail. (Another reason to never motor with the mainsail cover on; but I digress.) This hose ought to be replaced more often than any other; yet, because of its location on the typical production boat, it's rarely even inspected.
My general rule for all seacocks is that within ten seconds-- and no more-- of identifying the leak, you should be able to shut off the seacock. Lifting a mattress is okay. Moving stuff aside isn't. Reaching into a hot engine compartment isn't (what if it's on fire? --shutting off the seacock will save you from going down when the intake hose burns through). Removing all the tangled, unused 'secondary' life jackets (while sounding like a good idea to have them out at a time like this) isn't. Not being able to reach it at all is worst.
I would advise you to very seriously look at moving the seacock. (While you're at it, consider Marelon; but I digress again.
) This isn't a hard job and can be done in an afternoon or two when you're next on the hard. I've written in these boards extensively on this procedure but if you have any questions just ask me and we'll go from there.
Just know that the current situation is untenable from a safety and convenience point of view. But you already do know that, because you asked about options.
'Prudent pessimism is the mark of a responsible yachtie (and private pilot).' --me.
I don't like the idea of having to burrow into an under-bunk area to get to a crucial seacock. The engine inlet is one of the most vital on the boat. Not only can you not run the engine without its being open, but its hose can be exposed to fuel and oil spills as well as to heat, none of which are good for water hose, and it can fail-- usually when it's hot, which means when the engine is running, which means at the worst possible time to have it fail. (Another reason to never motor with the mainsail cover on; but I digress.) This hose ought to be replaced more often than any other; yet, because of its location on the typical production boat, it's rarely even inspected.
My general rule for all seacocks is that within ten seconds-- and no more-- of identifying the leak, you should be able to shut off the seacock. Lifting a mattress is okay. Moving stuff aside isn't. Reaching into a hot engine compartment isn't (what if it's on fire? --shutting off the seacock will save you from going down when the intake hose burns through). Removing all the tangled, unused 'secondary' life jackets (while sounding like a good idea to have them out at a time like this) isn't. Not being able to reach it at all is worst.
I would advise you to very seriously look at moving the seacock. (While you're at it, consider Marelon; but I digress again.
) This isn't a hard job and can be done in an afternoon or two when you're next on the hard. I've written in these boards extensively on this procedure but if you have any questions just ask me and we'll go from there.Just know that the current situation is untenable from a safety and convenience point of view. But you already do know that, because you asked about options.
Interesting you say that. Now I personally don't believe in this, however, I will relay something. The Marine Surveyer, who did my pre-buy and does both sail and power boats, said, quote: "The sailboat guys turn the engine raw water sea cocks on and off every time they go out, but the power boat drivers turn them on at the beginning of the season and they stay on till winter. I don't know why." He did not have a problem with it either way. Then he said, "Now the marine head below the water line is another story, make sure that water is turned off..."
Not saying I agree, just repeating.
Not saying I agree, just repeating.
Diana, fortunately on the H31 the raw water seacock is behind the engine/transmission minimizing the chances that I would have to fight fire or anything else except the cushion/mattress and coverboard to get to it. Moving it means making more holes in the hull which I am loathe to do. Upgrading the seacock is something I have been considering because it is bedded as both you and main have criticized at length.
Why would you what to close the seacock every time you leave? It should stay open all the time, if you are worried about it replace it or the hose, but the chance of destroying an engine out weights the hose leaking and having the pump to work harder. Unless you are leaving your boat for an extended time.
Benny "not having to worry about forgetting to open it and burning the impeller." Don't you look over the stern after the motor starts too see if water if spiting out the exhaust? I do. No water Darn, I forgot the raw water valve.....
Darn, I forgot the raw water valve.....
If they where meant to be closed and opened all the time, they would not be where they are, just saying. Yes I look, but I have a flat tail (280) I can only see the disturbance.
wufi, bless your little heart! Sounds like you bought into what the boatbuilder (#theboatbuilderisnotyourfriend) wants you to believe.
ALL seacocks should be immediately accessible, as I said. If the boatbuilder installed one that isn't, that's his bad and he deserves to be spanked for it. ('I'll buy the bottle; you hit him with it!' --from college job at liquor store.)
Don't be afraid to relocate it ASAP. It's your boat; you can't blame the boatbuilder if you know it's his bad and you don't fix it. Patching the hole is not hard. Installing a new one is not hard. Best of all this forces you to change the hose, examine the intake loop, and so on. Decide where you want it to go for your convenience and go for it.
You can do this easily. Like any pro, I can do this job on any boat in about an hour (that's $110 yard fee at any yard; and done). Patching the old hole will take another hour (same). You can paint over it when it's done.
By the way I currently have very nice solid-fiberglass backing plates listed on eBay; so don't be afraid of drilling new holes and doing an installation 'from new'. It's not hard and I provide directions
ALL seacocks should be immediately accessible, as I said. If the boatbuilder installed one that isn't, that's his bad and he deserves to be spanked for it. ('I'll buy the bottle; you hit him with it!' --from college job at liquor store.
)Don't be afraid to relocate it ASAP. It's your boat; you can't blame the boatbuilder if you know it's his bad and you don't fix it. Patching the hole is not hard. Installing a new one is not hard. Best of all this forces you to change the hose, examine the intake loop, and so on. Decide where you want it to go for your convenience and go for it.
You can do this easily. Like any pro, I can do this job on any boat in about an hour (that's $110 yard fee at any yard; and done). Patching the old hole will take another hour (same). You can paint over it when it's done.
By the way I currently have very nice solid-fiberglass backing plates listed on eBay; so don't be afraid of drilling new holes and doing an installation 'from new'. It's not hard and I provide directions
yes but do they have to close when not in use? that is the thread. The seacock on a most hunters are behind the engine under the rear bunk, where would you move it too?
Mike: anywhere else! Ideally it should be in the hull directly inside the engine cover, like in front of the engine. That gives you the shortest hose to the RW pump. If that doesn't work, explore the cabinetry compartments immediately adjacent. Under a q-berth (provided there is fast access available) is also good, so long as it is as LOW as possible, to avoid starving the RW pump during pitching or heeling. But back under the transmission and not accessible is not good. That was the worst of many options for the boatbuilder.
really on the 280 its the only place it can go, no space in front of the engine, its under the 1st panel behind the engine cover, not hard to get too.
but what about closing it all the time?
but what about closing it all the time?
We keep the raw water seacock closed at all times whenever we don't run the Yanmar... We do exersize it from time to time so it does not freeze... otherwise the location is not ideal on the 285... agree removing cushions/panel, and other items to get to it is a pain but don't see it any worse than seacocks on other vessels we looked at. The hose could be replaced with new one if worried about it collapsing/failing... also a heat shield could be wrapped around the hose if it worries some... I believe these hoses will outlive us in normal use.