Question about raw water pump on 3QM30

[sailnc]

Pump has had a slow leak for the past year, gradually worsening -- I need to bite the bullet and either rebuild it or replace. Thoughts? I've seen a few posts where people have done rebuilds, only to have it leak again months later...
I hate to drop $300+ on a new pump but I'm beginning to think that's the better option.

I noticed that there is a metal sleeve around the pump shaft (see photo below). Is this typical on our boats, or is this a modification by a previous owner?
The two holes in the sleeve correspond to set screws in the pulley.
I haven't tried removing this sleeve from the shaft, but if I buy a new pump, I guess I will need to reuse it on the replacement.

And yet another question... in the other photo you can see the in/out ports on the existing pump... they seem a bit cobbled-together. Again, is this typical, or an owner-inflicted change? It looks like it might be due for replacement.

 

[Jim Legere]

My pump looks exactly like yours (including the copper inlet/outlet elbows). I haven't removed the pulley, so I can't confirm if it has a sleeve, but I suspect that the sleeve is just a standard adaptor for using that pulley. When rebuilding these pumps, wear on the shaft at the point of the lip seal is the usual culprit when leaks appear again after rebuild. If you can feel a groove on the pump shaft with your fingernail, it is probably best to replace it. By the time you price a new shaft, seals, an impeller and a gasket, $300 and change for a new pump might be a better deal.

 

[kloudie1]

SKF folks make a Speedi Sleeve that will allow the new seal to work fine again on the the worn shaft . It is available at bearing supply places or on line. A couple of new bearings, a Speedi Sleeve , an impeller, and seal will cost less than just a shaft purchased from Yanmar. That is for DIY.. not shop labor..
http://www.skf.com/us/products/seal...eedi-sleeve/skf-speedi-sleeve-gold/index.html
Check this out from Maine Sail.. not same pump, but similar..
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/raw_water_pump

 

[markwbird]

I rebuilt mine for about $80.00. New one costs $600.00. There is not much to it. A couple of bearings. A couple if seals and gaskets. New impeller. I used a piece of pvc and a hammer and a wood bock to tap the old bearings off and the new ones on. Took about an hour on the bench at home.

 

[rardiH36]

sailnc:

Looking at your photo, that Jabsco 2760 pump has been around for a while! When I replaced my old one several years ago with a new one (which also recently failed) I saved it as a possible backup. More recently when I took it apart, I observed that the bronze cam inside the impeller cavity had gone "pink". Just a small tap on it caused a corner to break off. Also the bearings were a bit rough. A rebuild kit including these items plus shaft and seals is likely more expensive than a complete new Jabsco 2760 pump. And you run the risk of more pink in the pump housing --- and the risk of not succeding with the repair.

 

[sailnc]

Yeah for all I know it could be original. Of course, the fact that I allowed a very slow leak to go undisturbed for a year or so, might have had something to do with the appearance. Hey, it only dripped when the seacock was open...

 

[sailnc]

So.... the plot thickens! Going through boxes of new and old parts from the previous owner, there is a set of replacement parts for a water pump. I'm attaching a photo. I'm not sure if these are parts for the belt-driven pump I'm operating on, or for the engine mounted pump that circulates glycol.
Anyone recognize the kit from these photos?
thanks!
Tom

 

[ggrizzard]

Your second pic shows a label that, I think, translates as follows:
K24770-42702 : Part Number of the Kit
"SEA": As in 'sea water'
"CWP": Centrifugal Water Pump
05/00 : Kit put together May 2000
This is a SWAG translation. But to me would indicate it's for the raw water pump.

 

[rardiH36]

So.... the plot thickens! Going through boxes of new and old parts from the previous owner, there is a set of replacement parts for a water pump. I'm attaching a photo. I'm not sure if these are parts for the belt-driven pump I'm operating on, or for the engine mounted pump that circulates glycol.
Anyone recognize the kit from these photos?
thanks!
Tom

Most Def the pump that is integral to the front of the engine. Originally designed to push seawater in our "H" series engines, it's duty was revised to do the anti-freeze. Discussed in this thread only about a month ago. See Post#6 for some breakdown pics contributed by member Alctel. Lucky you to have the rebuild kit on hand!

https://forums.sailboatowners.com/i...ral-cooling-water-pump-replace-repair.184273/

 

[rardiH36]

SKF folks make a Speedi Sleeve that will allow the new seal to work fine again on the the worn shaft . It is available at bearing supply places or on line. A couple of new bearings, a Speedi Sleeve , an impeller, and seal will cost less than just a shaft purchased from Yanmar. That is for DIY.. not shop labor..
http://www.skf.com/us/products/seal...eedi-sleeve/skf-speedi-sleeve-gold/index.html

Thanks for the heads up about the Speedi Sleeve. Checking out the link, and seems that the smallest shaft size is 11.99mm. The shaft on our external jabsco 2760 pumps is 10mm. Maybe another manufacturer besides SKF makes a similar sleeve? Time to start Binging.

 

[markwbird]

That is definitely the raw water pump. The fresh water pump is not rebuild-able if it is like most.

 

[sailnc]

Thanks everyone for helping sort out this mystery! Looks like I'm well-prepared if the glycol pump starts leaking, but it's time to shop for parts (or replacement) for the 2760.
I've seen replacement pumps offered with neoprene and nitrile impellers (2760-0001 and 2760-0003 respectively). Does it matter which one I use in this application? I found the -0003 online for $299.
http://marinepumpdirect.com/jabsco-pump-2760-0003/
Or even a bit less on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Jabsco-Pump-2760-0003-/141813973580

Tom

 

[Jim Legere]

Neoprene impellers are usually for coolant/raw water service; Nitrile is for dirty (oily) water service. I am sure you can use either for your application but one may last longer?

For replacement impellers, I have always used Globe brand impellers, which are made from a special proprietary polyurethane formula. They will survive running dry for 5 - 10 minutes. But you won't get them on a new pump - they are aftermarket.

 

[sailnc]

Hello all, it's me again, the water pump guy.
Since my last post, I ended up buying a new raw water pump (via eBay). Then I found ANOTHER spare (used) pump among the boxes of stuff from the previous owner. However it was completely frozen up, so that's a project for another time. I'm accumulating quite a collection of water pumps, it seems.

Anyway, I noticed that the pulleys were different on this recently-discovered pump and the one in use on the engine. Any ideas why that would be? I'll probably use the gray painted one (on left) since that's what was most recently in use.

Finally, the two L-shaped adapters (from the pump inlet/outlet to the hoses) are in rough shape. They appear to be made from possibly common copper plumbing parts. Anyone try making replacements? Or can they be purchased?
Hope I'm attaching these photos correctly...
Tom

 

[MitchM]

1/ picture looks like old and new style pulleys which will each possibly require its own unique belt. 2/ the l shaped inlet and outlet adapters are threaded so the male threads have to be the right pitch to fit the female pump body. don't know if you can get the right threads buying these elbows off the shelf at home depot etc. 3/ for the part number shown on the pump part you have, find it in the yan parts manual for your engine and it will tell how those part all re assemble. boat diesel.com has some diagrams you can search but you may have to pay a nominal fee to view service manuals and post questions. boat diesel.com is a great bargain if you do much mechanical work on your engine......

 

[frankies56]

as for the picture of the pulleys the out side one you can see is to wide and running on the center of the pulley. which would not make proper contact to belt as for the fitting some hardware stores have stainless fittings not at home depot just get a nipple and a 90 deg, and add a hose barb.

 

[sailnc]

Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions! We are up and running with no leaks.

I will look for parts to make replacement fittings for those L shaped adapters. The copper felt kinda weak and is pretty corroded so I doubt there is much life left in them. If I come up with something novel I'll post here!