Pearson 303 gets new Hot Water system

[StargazerP303]

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Hi all! This season I've decided to change out my hotwater system a Seaward F600 6gal Marine Electric Water Heater AC110v - 1500watt with Front Heat Exchanger. It has a good but too hot temperature coming out the faucet's you have to watch out because the engine heat exchanger heats the water to around 200++ degrees OUCH! I said. Also, I would like to get more water volume then just 6 Gallons of hot water. I do like long showers "LOL". So after doing some looking and reading I think Ive figured out what to do and I am open to any ideas,views or opinions here.
New configuration as follows:
New Seaward F600 Marine Electric Water Heater 6 Gallon with Front Heat Exchanger, a new AC heating element that's only "750Watt element" and not 1500watt. This allows me to use my 1000watt Kipor generator to heat up water at sea and at moorings. New: install Mixing Valve at heater that will allow the hot water to mix with cold and deliver a good comfortable temperature threw out the boats faucets. This will mean that the HOT 6 gallon tank will act like 10 Gallons of how water.
Currently: To run water I have to run Hot water then add the cold water to mix at the faucets to get it to right temperature then take shower or wash dishes..etc. We would go threw water quickly because of wasting hot to mix before using it. I guessing about half-gallon per event.
I'm thinking also 200++ degrees of water pumped to the galley and Head faucets must play a bad role with plumbing too. Any comments or ideas to add please do!
Regards, Capt. Rob StarGazer 11

 

[Ron20324]

Your engine thermostat is probably 180, max. Have you found a 750 heating element?

 

[Stu Jackson]

All a 750 watt element will do will take longer to heat the water.

Get a water miser shutoff for your faucets and the temperature you initially set with your faucets will stay pretty constant.

nstall Mixing Valve at heater that will allow the hot water to mix with cold and deliver a good comfortable temperature threw out the boats faucets

Good idea. They're called thermostatic mixing valves,m discussed here many times. Do a search.

 

[StargazerP303]

Your engine thermostat is probably 180, max. Have you found a 750 heating element?

Thanks for the good question. I think I fond one on www.isotherm-parts.com but need to call and confirm it. Here's a pic. If you know of one please share!
Thanks, Capt. Rob

 

[StargazerP303]

All a 750 watt element will do will take longer to heat the water.

Get a water miser shutoff for your faucets and the temperature you initially set with your faucets will stay pretty constant.



Good idea. They're called thermostatic mixing valves,m discussed here many times. Do a search.

Thanks Stu, Yes your right about control at the faucet end but I'm interested in the hole lines too. Its true that 750w will take a little longer and I could run off my 12,000watt pure sine wave inverter but then I will tax my battery's so I'm installing a Kipor 1000w gen. in the boats stern. Regards, Capt. Rob

 

[Maine Sail]

Its true that 750w will take a little longer and I could run off my 12,000watt pure sine wave inverter but then I will tax my battery's so

12,000W? Wow that's huge...

Why not just purchase an Isotemp SPA series which already comes with a thermostatic mixing valve and a 750W element and is a far superior product to the Seward? The Isotemp holds temp better, has a 100% 316 Stainless tank & HX, not cheap aluminum or glass-lined steel, and comes standard with all the equipment you are looking to add. It also has a 5 year warranty on the tank vs. just two years. Also be aware that the mixing valve kit from Indel is not NPT threaded (unless they recently changed it) so you'll need some adapters too. By the time you're done converting a Seaward with the Indel parts you're going to be closing in on the price of an Isotemp SPA and still have a lower quality tank..

I'm installing a Kipor 1000w gen. in the boats stern. Regards, Capt. Rob

I hope that by "installing" you mean "using" above deck, well ventilated and that you have CO detectors. Also keep in mind that the Kipor 1K is likely a max output of about 7.5A or 900W at 120V so if running a 750W element you're not going to have a lot left over for battery charging, something most folks generally want to do, when running a portable gen...

 

[RoyS]

Most mixing valves are available with Union pipe connections or threaded connections. The unions make winterizing easy. I remove my mixing valve for the winter.

 

[StargazerP303]

Most mixing valves are available with Union pipe connections or threaded connections. The unions make winterizing easy. I remove my mixing valve for the winter.

RoyS, Thanks for the good idea, plus I would imagine it would be easier to clean too? Do you do that too? What brand did you buy? Thanks Capt. Rob

 

[StargazerP303]

MainSail wrote: I hope that by "installing" you mean "using" above deck, well ventilated and that you have CO detectors. No! actually talking to the engineers at Kipor they explained to me that I couldn't extend the muffler its 1/4 inch dia. with a 1in. length. However, if I do the funnel effect at the end of the muffler say 2.5 to 3inches diam. It will not effect its running properly. So the plan is to drill hole and mount below-deck on stern.
MainSail said: Also keep in mind that the Kipor 1K is likely a max output of about 7.5A or 900W at 120V so if running a 750W element you're not going to have a lot left over for battery charging, something most folks generally want to do, when running a portable gen...
Yes this is true, IF while I'm running the gen and the tank heater reaches its "SetPoint" of temperature it stops drawing power from the Kipor gen and the power now focuses on the batteries etc..
MainSail wrote: Why not just purchase an Isotemp SPA series. Thanks I have looked at them online and the boat show down south and really, I think they maybe great but are "not standard" like you stated on your thread and non standard scares me especially if your on the go and need a fix. Noticed on the web they discontinued their model forcing you to upgrade. yes, all company's do that but you can't find parts so, I feel I need better evidence of quality and life cycle before investing that kind of money$$.
Mainsail Thanks for the heads-up and questions. PS. I wanted an 8000 watt inverter but they were on backorder so they sent me a 12,000 watt in its place free.. got to love it. Probably could share power to the town..lol
Capt. Rob

 

[RoyS]

The mixing valve I use is a Honeywell AM100C-UT-1LF, purchased from supplyhouse.com for $99.95 last year. I have never attempted to clean it separately. I do shock treat the water system with bleach in the spring with the valve in place. I also installed a large stainless steel dial readout thermometer in a T fitting in the hot water outlet of the water heater. The thermometer I got from a brewers supply with a very long probe that reaches into the tank. That provides a constant look at the internal water temperature in the heater (not the mixing valve output).

 

[Ron20324]

View attachment 135471
Thanks for the good question. I think I fond one on www.isotherm-parts.com but need to call and confirm it. If you know of one please share!

I believe it was an RV site that had 12v/120v , with 2 elements. Sorry, don't remember where.

 

[StargazerP303]

Thanks Ron, If you come across any more info on heater please let me know. I emailed Wale for more information and await there response..

 

[BillBay36]

MainSail wrote: I hope that by "installing" you mean "using" above deck, well ventilated and that you have CO detectors. No! actually talking to the engineers at Kipor they explained to me that I couldn't extend the muffler its 1/4 inch dia. with a 1in. length. However, if I do the funnel effect at the end of the muffler say 2.5 to 3inches diam. It will not effect its running properly. So the plan is to drill hole and mount below-deck on stern.

running properly would be a small concern for us. safety is the number one. did you think long about risk of death? our neighbors sister died in Florida from CO asphyxiation while on their boat. the Honda generator was the source of CO. is the kippor device spark proof rated? is it meant as safe for marine install for ignition explosion protection? how can you create a safe under deck fuel tank vented and fill above deck to match safety code? air or cooling for the kippor? how will exhaust gas and metal pipe get insulated from hull parts? did you call the boat insurance company? you should check about claim protections if you are going to install a gen device not made for marine use. portable gas generators can be dangerous please do be safe.

 

[StargazerP303]

Yaaa! Completed Hot water tank with new mixing valve. Picture shows installation and piping. Time in project 4 hrs. Thank you all for your incite on what parts to use.. Cheers!

 

[StargazerP303]

Your engine thermostat is probably 180, max. Have you found a 750 heating element?

Still looking for a standard threaded 110vac-750watt after talking to David @ Indel he basically stated that the thread is European fit and NOT standard and also 2 week order time for parts. Boy! I'm glad I don't install there "proprietary heating system". Any idea's please jump right in! Thanks