Keel Retention 322 Part 2 The Good News

Jul 15, 2014
73
Oday 322 Freeport, Bahamas
There are a lot of 20 to 30 year old boats (not just O’Day) that may be experiencing keel issues.

For the 322 this story becomes more positive as it goes on.

I found an owner review (below) that was done about 15-years ago. With the help of Google, I was able to track down the owner and called him.

In 1994, he was sailing down the Chesapeake when the bilge pump couldn't keep up with the inflow of water. The keel had partially ripped out and was held mainly by the aft keel bolt. A Mayday call was made and the Coast Guard responded and staunched the flow by stuffing horsehair into the voids. The boat limped to the Repair Yard and a fix was made as outlined later.
The owner said when the boat was out of the water, he could turn the keel bolt nuts by hand.

After the modification, years passed, and when under full power, the hydrokeel slams a concrete underwater obstruction that brought the boat to a shuddering halt. The boat was hauled and even though the keel was twisted and had to be replaced, the keel sump was undamaged. That’s GREAT news and gives some confidence to the design once the keel sump mods are done. Mars Metal in Canada made a replacement fin keel (9-inches more draft) and all was well.

This was one of the last two 322’s made and the original owner still owns and loves her.

Here are his comments from 15-years ago

If the clock could be turned back, would owner buy again?
Yes. (and in 2014 he still owns her)
This was the first American-built vessel that featured a contemporary interior that was the equal to the French-built boats. We owned an Oday 25' with the typical interior of most American sailboats which meant that even the 35' Oday of the time hardly seem to offer more usable space.
My only carps are the undersized primary winches, the too-small 16hp Yanmar aux., and the poorly attached bolted-on wing keel.

Gear that's been added:
1. Jib sheet turning blocks. Should have been included because without them, it is difficult to control the sheets on tacks in most winds.

2. Replaced main track with adjustable line-controlled cars.

3. Added additional jib blocks to jib tracks for better sheet handling.

4. Mounted large blocks in cockpit rail area for spinnaker sheets.

Structural or complex improvements:
Completely reconstructed the keel bolt-on system by replacing the individual washer-like backing plates with a single large plate shaped to the bilge dimensions with individually drilled holes for each keel bolt. Keel now supported by a larger surface than offered by separate backing rings. Also faired the keel into the keel stump for additional strength and streamlining. Added cross-brace to bilge area for more rigidity. Also added more layers of fiberglass.


The boat's best features:
We refer to ours as the biggest little boat ever because of the clever management of interior space. Even today, 12 years later, the salon is equal to new and larger boats. (of course it’s now 24-years)

The furling main is also a big plus (once we finally got it to work properly!) and has added to the longevity of the sail. Both the main and the genoa are the original Neil Pride sails that came with the yacht. They have experienced seven years of charter boat use both in the Chesapeake and the Jersey coast and are still in good shape.

The little Yanmar still sports its original fan belt and hoses, etc., after nearly 2000 hours and zero maintenance.
Problem areas in terms of design, materials, maintenance, etc.:
As noted above, the keel and the furling main. The main furler required nearly 10 years to finally get it to work to my satisfaction.

Sailing characteristics:
Heavy weather helm. The shorter main mast doesn't permit a larger area sail because of the Isomat behind-the-mast furling system. Additionally, the mainsail itself has to be triangular (no roach) with no battens and a loose foot. The 140 genoa is too large for a vessel this size and should really be no more than 120. For all this, the 322 still points surprisingly well and sails even better in a still beam wind because of the ability to shape the loose foot.

Motoring characteristics:
Because of the smallish diesel, the yacht barely holds its own in strong currents or for long distance motoring. The 18hp rating is not borne out by the 16hp plate on the engine itself. With a three-bladed adjustable feathering prop the engine performs better.
Liveability: Great. The wide-ish beam and European styled interior offer lots of room and space.

The owner has kindly sent picture’s that show the modification and additional cross beam.

Here is his email response to me:
Hi Gary,

This year happens to be the 20th anniversary of our near disaster when the wing keel ripped through the hull.

Looking for the drawing of the replacement support plate I found other documents, invoices, etc., in other words nearly everything but the drawing. I remember it was shaped to the area of the four keel bolts and nuts.

I couldn't locate any response from the Hunt company but I still recall their reaction to my criticism of the keel support design. Vogel Marina, at the time in Fairlee Creek, recommended the additional glassed layers and the cross member support. I insisted on the full metal plate to replace the “washer” style backing plates on each individual bolt. Hunt’s, later, vehemently defended their system. Honestly, I can’t recall if I communicated with them or if they replied to my comments on the Internet.

I attached 3 photos. One is from a Polaroid taken by Vogel in 1994 after the completed work and the similar one was taken recently with my iPhone. The third offers a poor glimpse of the full backing plate just below the water in the bilge.

Hope this helps.
************************************************************************************************************************

I’m going to revert to remarks I made in the post “322 Keel Retention” from about 4-weeks ago. I think (but can’t) confirm, that the 322’s built after the Leveraged Buyout may have used a different layup schedule in the keel sump than earlier boats that probably followed the C. Raymond Hunt design.

My keel sump bottom is 3/4 inch so I feel reasonably comfortable. I am going to make the full plate instead of individual plates at each bolt. I’ll also add the additional cross member.

I think the extra layers of glass aren't beyond the skills of the average owner and that should keep these great boats going for other 30-years. I agree with everything that is in the Boat Review above. This is a fabulous boat. If you aren't out in big water, it’s probably a matter of keeping the keel bolts properly torqued (not over torqued). I bought a torque wrench and sockets so that’s now part of twice a year check.

Thanks to GergL for his help and advise.

AS ALWAYS – I seek your input, ideas and comments.
Gary
The Tanquary
Freeport, Bahamas
 

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Sep 23, 2009
1,475
O'Day 34-At Last Rock Hall, Md
Thank you Tanq for the yoeman job you have done researching this.
I wonder if it may be an issue on other O'Days?
How thick was the fiberglass stump floor when it first split and what caused the split?
I also wonder how thick it is on other boats. A friend reports that the thinest part of his Falmouth Cutter is a full inch!
Larry
 
Sep 6, 2011
82
Oday 322 Hawkestone YC Lake Simcoe
This is a great article. I would very much be intersted in getting a copy of the stainless steel base plate dwraings if they are availbale. I would like to install that on my own 322 for peice of mind

Thanks for posting this
 
Jul 15, 2014
73
Oday 322 Freeport, Bahamas
SS Plate (keel bolts)

Once I found out that my keel sump was at least 3/4 inch think, this became less of an issue on my boat. I have three SS plates that are 3x3 and the aft keel bolt does not have much clearance around it. It just has an SS washer.

To install a one piece plate, you have to drop the keel and that's no longer on my current schedule.

SO.. it looks to be a build quality issue only on the boats that were constructed after the leveraged buyout and I don't know what serial number that starts at.
 

Pat

.
Jun 7, 2004
1,250
Oday 272LE Ninnescah Yacht Club, Wichita, Ks.
You have done all of us a great service in your diligent attempt to solve this riddle. We have a 272 that we purchased in 1986 and it's keel stub appears hell for stout...we looked closely this winter and it appears the stub is over 1-1/4 inch thick all around as it's not so aerodynamic as the later boats...i.e. the 302 and 322....I've not worried about it and we've only run aground in soft mud once so anchor's aweigh !...Thank you again for your terriffic efforts. Patrick in Wichita
 
Nov 13, 2015
45
Hunter 290 Toronto Ontario
Interesting stuff! But two things confuse me:
  • That new cross-member in the bilge would generally make the boat stiffer and stronger, but I can't see how it adds an ounce to the boat's resistance to having the keel bolts rip out of the bottom of the boat! The SS plate would certainly help, as would additional glass, as long as it goes UNDER the nuts and the plate or washers below the nuts. But this new cross-member is 100% OVER the nuts and the plate, so it would still be intact on the boat after it slowly sank without a keel, wouldn't it? (I did hear about somebody who took a strong nylon car-towing strap and trapped it BELOW the nuts/plate and looped it over a stringer or cross-member. THAT might help keep the keel on the boat (if it was super-tight), but not this, AFAICS.) What am I missing? (I forget the name of big fancy racing boat that foundered at sea after losing its keel with the loss of all hands. But I remember seeing an interior bilge photo of an identical boat, which had a strong-looking rectilinear grid of similar "cross-members", all of them BESIDE the keel bolts, and not one of them UNDER the washers or nuts. There was nothing keeping the washers and nuts aboard other than the glass hull above the keel, and that's what failed, presumably leaving the reinforcing grid intact.)
  • Tanqueray writes "To install a one piece plate, you have to drop the keel..." and I don't see why. As long as that new cross-member hasn't been installed, it looks to me (from photos) as if there's decent access to the bolts from above, obstructed only by the bilge pump and one big hose. (What IS that, the intake for a manual bilge pump?) Remove them temporarily with the boat secure on the hard (sitting on its keel, stabilized with jackstand pads), then remove all the nuts and washers and small plates, and I'd think you could slip a SS plate over the bolts then replace the washers and bolts and tighten it all up. What am I missing?
 
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Jul 15, 2014
73
Oday 322 Freeport, Bahamas
Norm.. this post was a follow-up to an earlier post on 322 keel bolts. There are pictures in that post of the retention strap I added to my boat. You'll also see pictures of why you can't install a single plate without dropping the keel. Much of the issue was resolved by discovering that early 322's had a layup thickness in the keel sump of about an inch. The forum has changed and I have no idea where that post (or hundreds of others) have gone. Maybe if you search "keel retention" it may show up.
 
Nov 13, 2015
45
Hunter 290 Toronto Ontario
Thanks, Tanqueray. It may have been your retention strap I read about. I still don't get why the keel has to be dropped, but I'm sure you're right that it does. Maybe two smaller plates could be installed with the bolts and keel still in place?
 
Jan 27, 2008
3,045
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
I think you'll find the bottom of the keel sump to be too uneven to use a single big stainless plate. You should put some mold release on the plate, then lather up the bottom with some thickened epoxy and then put the plate with the bolts finger tight. this should make a nice flat surface to distribute the loads. Otherwise you could have some big stress risers and do more damage than good if the plate is contacting just a few high spots. Remember a plane is defined by three points so a flat plate will sit on the three highest points in the sump.
 
Jul 15, 2014
73
Oday 322 Freeport, Bahamas
Thanks, Tanqueray. It may have been your retention strap I read about. I still don't get why the keel has to be dropped, but I'm sure you're right that it does. Maybe two smaller plates could be installed with the bolts and keel still in place?
The bolts stick up too high to get a plate under the cross member that runs between bolt 1 and 2. The next post (Jerry I think) is also correct because the keel sump bottom isn't perfectly level. I have three 3 x 3 plates and once I discovered that my keel sump layup was quite think, I stopped worrying about it. I hauled out 2 weeks at Bradford Marine in Freeport, Bahamas and had the bottom done with tin. Great yard if you need anything . Did a full Keel & Bolt inspection - all A1
 
Nov 13, 2015
45
Hunter 290 Toronto Ontario
Sounds like a SS plate could be installed on the aft bolts (but not #1) without dropping the keel. And preferably Dave's way, after filling in the bilge with thickened epoxy (or adding some fiberglass or carbon-fiber "straps" and THEN filling/flattening). All of that should help keep the keel on a thin or badly wetted stub.
And BTW, I don't think a nylon strap will do much, other than keeping the boat and the separated keel loosely tied together - and making the holed boat sink faster!
 
Jul 15, 2014
73
Oday 322 Freeport, Bahamas
Sounds like a SS plate could be installed on the aft bolts (but not #1) without dropping the keel. And preferably Dave's way, after filling in the bilge with thickened epoxy (or adding some fiberglass or carbon-fiber "straps" and THEN filling/flattening). All of that should help keep the keel on a thin or badly wetted stub.
And BTW, I don't think a nylon strap will do much, other than keeping the boat and the separated keel loosely tied together - and making the holed boat sink faster!
Norm.. you came to the keel party without having read my other thread first. I bought this 322 having heard about the keel sump layup issue but because the rest of the boat met what I was looking for, I bought her anyway. I then spent weeks working up short term and long term solutions. During that I spoke with other owners and found that there are three distinct situations that O'Day found themselves in while the 302 and 322 were in production. The early boats - mine is number 35, were built to the design and layup schedule from the designer C. Raymond Hunt, then there was a leveraged buyout and the original layup started to suffer and THEN there was a period during bankruptcy when everything kind of went out the window and there were some boats with 1/4inch keel sumps. After finding this out, I drilled through my keel sump to find a nice thick robust well whetted layup.
I had already added the keel strap, it's a double thick 12,000 pound strap and (if you'd read my early posts) was there simply to keep the boat from tipping over so I'd have time to launch my liferaft.
Cheers, Gary currently at Great Harbour Cay, Bahamas
 
Nov 13, 2015
45
Hunter 290 Toronto Ontario
Thanks, Gary. I did come late to the party here, but I think I did read your earlier posts. My interest is because my wife and I are shopping for a keelboat/cottage and were attracted to a grey 1989 O'Day 322, from the last year -- "when everything kind of went out the window and there were some boats with 1/4inch keel sumps." I'm glad for you that you've got an early 322 with a decent sump.
My concern with the keel strap is not that it's not strong enough; it's about modulus of elasticity, etc. I'm only an amateur scientist/engineer, but I think that even a very tight braided nylon strap will do nothing to PREVENT a keel from dropping far enough to crack through a weak keel sump (not yours). And once it's cracked through, I think the boat will start sinking. Without the strap, the keel will probably drop off, so the keel-less boat will probably "dump" and start sinking very slowly, or maybe never. (Most keelboats I've read about that lost their keels did not sink, FWIW.) WITH the strap, the keel may hang from the cross-member, which (as you say) will keep the boat from tipping, but it will also make it fill with water and sink very promptly -- maybe even before you can rig the liferaft, I'm not sure. I think that would be a tough choice! So I think we're probably going to pass on the otherwise lovely -- though not cheap -- 322. Now we've got a much older O'Day 32 CC on our short list! It looks like a train pulling a caboose, but it seems great once you get used to that!
 
Jul 15, 2014
73
Oday 322 Freeport, Bahamas
Norm, the strap runs over a very strong cross-member and doesn't depend on the keel sump. I'm a math guy and you're an amateur engineer so my great hope is that the system never gets tested and with my thick sump, it won't. I was looking for a Bayfield 36 (I've owned 5 Bayfield's) when I heard about this 322. The early 322's are superb boats for the dollar. Sail well - phrf 163, very roomy and exceptionally well made. I just did the bottom and there isn't a single blister on hull or rudder. Good Luck in your search - try to find one of the first hundred 322's.
 
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Aug 13, 2014
8
oday 322 whitby
I have a 1989. How do I find which hull number I have? I cant seem to be able to locate it.
I had the boat PHRF last year and came in at 204 with flying sails. I thought that was little high.
 
Jul 15, 2014
73
Oday 322 Freeport, Bahamas
The serial number is molded into the top starboard aft corner of the hull. Part of the serial number will be the hull number. There were 228 built so look for a number between 1 and 228
 

Jsl1

.
Mar 9, 2016
16
Catalina 30 Cleveland
I am looking at a 1988 322. I don't know what the keel number is but a will find out.
Has anyone figured out what is the number range of the at risk boats?
 

Jsl1

.
Mar 9, 2016
16
Catalina 30 Cleveland
It appears that the hull number is STRSG114F787.
I believe this means it was a 1987 design and hull number 114. Halfway through the production run.
 
Nov 13, 2015
45
Hunter 290 Toronto Ontario
We seem to have gone with a much newer (2000) Hunter 290. Similar "magic" (How did they fit so much good stuff in??) aft-head layout, a slightly less revolutionary shoal-draft keel with a bottom flare and mini-wings, and a way more unconventional sail and rigging plan, with a big cockpit arch and a in-mast roller furling main! It seems to be a remarkably nice cottage for <29' LOA, and I'm very curious to see how it moves, handles, and feels under sail.
If I get a chance to check out an O'Day 322 or 302 in person, I'll take it for sure! :)
BTW, the Marine Surveyor who just surveyed our h290 sails an Albin Ballad. Several boats of that model have been lost when their mast-support system (hidden under the cabin sole) crumbled and sent the mast through the hull! If anything, the online discussion about that hazard and how to identify and remedy it is more active than the discussion about thin keel sumps on 1989 O'Day 322s or 302s.
Good luck and good sailing, all! :)