My experience with other moisture curing products, like 5200, tells me that once the material has been exposed to moist air, it can then be sealed up air tight & will still cure.
Hunter 170 with some cracks, Looking to buy and have no clue...
- Thread starter Shorefun
- Start date
The top side has the thick foam layer bonded to it. I don't think that the same is true of the bottom half of the boat. I believe that expansion rate differences between the foam & the plastic skin are the main reason for the cracks.Hey Dave...
On my 170 there are a couple minor stress cracks on the topside "clamshell", but the bottom is absolutly perfect with no cracks. Were they built together using the same process? I dont hardly see any 170s with cracks below the rub rail.
Loose broken & pulled away foam is something that I haven't seen before. That may need some additional consideration.... I feel getting the floor stiffer is important for long term.
I just would like to make sure people understand that the starboard side floor area seems to have the foam loose/ broken/ pulled away. As compared to the port side where the Luran is just no longer glued to the foam.
I am curious if I should get some empty caulking tubes. Fill them with gorilla glue and inject that into the hole in the floor. Maybe have holes near by and fill until it comes out surrounding holes then weigh down with flat item and weights.
I used smaller holes that were closer together when I glued down the delaminated portion of my floor. My method was the same as you describe. My results were good.
In the beginning, I got a roll of white duct tape & just taped over the cracks to keep water out while I tested the boat. I later went back & did proper repairs. I take mine out in the ocean, so I needed to do reliable repairs. If the boat seems structurally sound & you are not going out further than you can swim, then using it as is for now may be your most cost effective option, both in time & money.Honestly I look at the boat as very usable as is with mostly cosmetic issues from the cracks. I can slowly do repairs as I figure out the better ways. This is a very doable project with the goal of a few years of learning how to sail and see if we like it.
If you do have a serious failure, I would probably buy the standing rigging, deck hardware & sails off of you for the price you paid for the whole thing.
Wonder if hunter had covered the foam core entirely in glass cloth before casting the plastic shell if that would have made all the difference. The cloth underneath the plastic might have gripped better.I believe that expansion rate differences between the foam & the plastic skin are the main reason for the cracks.
After a very nice discussion with Dave last night I feel pretty confident moving forward.
My plan is to use empty 'blank' caulking gun tubes filled with Gorilla glue to inject into the floor area. I will peel up the anti skid and drill some holes and pump the glue in a section at a time. I will make up a heavy flat piece to make sure the floor stays flat as the glue expands.
All of my cracks are very tight with one exception that is around 1/16". Sometimes cracks open wide and that need glassing. I will buy some Plexus and bevel the cracks to repair them.
I need to locate a good replacement for the anti skid (I have inquired with the owners of this site). I need to get a twist shackle and maybe a normal shackle just looking at the hardware I have. The previous owner has sent the missing shroud wire and the notarized bill of sale so I can transfer the trailer. Moving right along. I am very confident this boat will be a very very sound boat to sail. I am hoping to locate some nice used sailing life vests at a good price. The basic square orange ones just will not due.
My plan is to use empty 'blank' caulking gun tubes filled with Gorilla glue to inject into the floor area. I will peel up the anti skid and drill some holes and pump the glue in a section at a time. I will make up a heavy flat piece to make sure the floor stays flat as the glue expands.
All of my cracks are very tight with one exception that is around 1/16". Sometimes cracks open wide and that need glassing. I will buy some Plexus and bevel the cracks to repair them.
I need to locate a good replacement for the anti skid (I have inquired with the owners of this site). I need to get a twist shackle and maybe a normal shackle just looking at the hardware I have. The previous owner has sent the missing shroud wire and the notarized bill of sale so I can transfer the trailer. Moving right along. I am very confident this boat will be a very very sound boat to sail. I am hoping to locate some nice used sailing life vests at a good price. The basic square orange ones just will not due.
The issue is likely more to do with the inability of bonding well to the plastic shell. The plastic is tough and very smooth, nothing good for bonding effectively. Anything that can get in to the plastic will eat the foam. In the end it was just a neat idea that just does not work the best.Wonder if hunter had covered the foam core entirely in glass cloth before casting the plastic shell if that would have made all the difference. The cloth underneath the plastic might have gripped better.
My boat has white nonskid tape like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Safe-Way-Tra...772856&sr=8-2&keywords=nonskid+tape+for+boats
I'm thinking about upgrading the cockpit floor with Hydro Turf for added grip and padding. Thinking light grey as to try and not cause any cracking due to uneven heating/cooling.
https://www.hydroturf.com/hydro-turf-sheets/sheets-boating/pwc-boating-45-x-84-molded-diamond.html
I believe the build process for these boats were an inner skin of fiberglass and an outer skin of Thermoplastic were constructed. Then the two halves were put together and expanding foam injected in between. I think the thermoplastic is soo smooth that the foam doesn't really bond to it, its just trapped tightly in there. There is a slight bubble in the cockpit of my 216 (about 1' x 6") where there is no cracking, but I feel like is just a cause of expansion and the floor has risen away from the foam. I'll probably address it soon. I was thinking just spray in a little expanding foam? let me know how your project works out and I may copy your lead.
As for the Plexus, it really isn't that expensive. I think it is cheaper and easier to repair than fiberglass. You will be surprised as how quickly and easily you get all the cracks taken care of.
https://www.amazon.com/Safe-Way-Tra...772856&sr=8-2&keywords=nonskid+tape+for+boats
I'm thinking about upgrading the cockpit floor with Hydro Turf for added grip and padding. Thinking light grey as to try and not cause any cracking due to uneven heating/cooling.
https://www.hydroturf.com/hydro-turf-sheets/sheets-boating/pwc-boating-45-x-84-molded-diamond.html
I believe the build process for these boats were an inner skin of fiberglass and an outer skin of Thermoplastic were constructed. Then the two halves were put together and expanding foam injected in between. I think the thermoplastic is soo smooth that the foam doesn't really bond to it, its just trapped tightly in there. There is a slight bubble in the cockpit of my 216 (about 1' x 6") where there is no cracking, but I feel like is just a cause of expansion and the floor has risen away from the foam. I'll probably address it soon. I was thinking just spray in a little expanding foam? let me know how your project works out and I may copy your lead.
As for the Plexus, it really isn't that expensive. I think it is cheaper and easier to repair than fiberglass. You will be surprised as how quickly and easily you get all the cracks taken care of.
You have to do some searching for good prices on the plexus. It comes in 2 sizes. 50mL and 400mL and I am not sure how much I will need in the end. Though I am thinking the 50 will be less waste. Plus you need the dispenser and tips.
The key thinking I learned from automotive paint is openness. The what ever you put on needs a place for the molecules of the glue to put 'strings' into. The plastic is super closed so nothing can get a good bond. The solvents of plexus open up the plastic.
The key thinking I learned from automotive paint is openness. The what ever you put on needs a place for the molecules of the glue to put 'strings' into. The plastic is super closed so nothing can get a good bond. The solvents of plexus open up the plastic.
I bought two 50ml + the applicator tips for $50. I would say I used 30ml for a 3' long crack dremmeled open pretty good. Fill the crack then immediately run a resin spreader over it to make it smooth. You will notice that the next day the plexus that was flush with the surrounding plastic has shrunk a little making it a little concave. you can go back, lightly sand, then apply more plexus on top, or you could probably use a filler. the strength will already be there.
for $100 you can buy four of them and I think that would be more than enough for your project. Remember to prep ALL the cracks so you cam Plexus them all at once. The applicators are no good after a few minutes and a 1/2 container doesn't really keep well if you want to come back and do a second coat.
for $100 you can buy four of them and I think that would be more than enough for your project. Remember to prep ALL the cracks so you cam Plexus them all at once. The applicators are no good after a few minutes and a 1/2 container doesn't really keep well if you want to come back and do a second coat.
Keeping it flat as the glue expands can be a bit of a trick. I would try a test run with 2 pieces of cardboard to see how much expansion you get, before injecting the boat. Once you shoot the goo into the boat, you are committed & undoing it will not be easy, if possible at all....
My plan is to use empty 'blank' caulking gun tubes filled with Gorilla glue to inject into the floor area. I will peel up the anti skid and drill some holes and pump the glue in a section at a time. I will make up a heavy flat piece to make sure the floor stays flat as the glue expands....
Walmarts near me often have the vest type PFD for like $15 each. West marine puts the 4-packs of vests on sale now & then for similar money. Fishery Supply usually has the best prices on inflatable vests & belt packs, but when West is running a sale, sometimes their prices get close. You can also spend a lot more. If I am going far offshore, my criteria for choosing a PFD are much different compared to lake use or near shore use....I am hoping to locate some nice used sailing life vests at a good price. The basic square orange ones just will not due.