Honda 9.9 on a Catalina 22

Jun 8, 2004
10,063
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Hardhead;
Generally I am over advising on the Hunter trailerables. I am coming from the standpoint as a retired sailboat dealer, American Marine & Sail Supply, as a Catalina, Hunter, Precision, etc. dealer handling the larger boats as well but known for the smaller boats. I even use to display small Catalina boats at the request of Frank Butler at Annapolis.

First as pointed out, any transom is not rated over 10 hp. The significant point for consideration of any motor is how large of course. The 9.9 Honda is overweight and overkill for the catalina 22. At high rpm, you will start plowing in any condition where the bow raises up and you start slowing down. It is like hitting a brickwall of water. Remember sailboats are displacement hulls, not plainnng hulls. This is why I never suggested going over max an 8 hp engine regardless of make.

I also use to be a Tohatsu dealer whom they came to me for advice on small boats. With OMC and Seagull gone, I believe Tohatsu is the oldest mfg. of small engines and they make the small Nissian and Mercury engines. The Tohatsu 6 Pro was in mind with small sailboats with the 22 in mind. As for long or extra long shafts, the 20 inch shaft was plenty but the extra long or 25 inch shaft is a choice. The only thing to be careful when launching and loading onto the trailer have the extra long shaft tilted upward depending on the trailer with the boat.

I suggest buying ethanol free gas which is higher but keeping ethanol or corn crap out of the fuel sure does help keeping the carb from being clogged up. If you do get the regular gas with ethanol, then you will need the additives for ethanol. At the end of the day, suggest that you disconnect the fuel line from the engine unless you have a fuel cut off on the motor where you can run the fuel out of the carb to keep gas paticuraly ethanol gas from solidifying in the jets of the carb thus making the carb inoperatble from running.

One other thing folks, the Sport 22 and the standard 22, are the same hulls with the swing keels. If you are planning on a new trailer, go with the one by Road King for the Sport 22. Easy launch at shallow ramps and even was able to motor the boat onto the trailer. One word of caution, do not undo the bow winchstand strap until the boat is in the water and keep your face away from that winch handle. Ron Frisosky and I designed that trailer.
 
  • Like
Likes: GGordonWoody
Sep 30, 2013
3,541
1988 Catalina 22 North Florida
This is probably a dead horse by now, but I agree with just about everything already said. I have the 6HP Tohatsu, and would not buy a bigger motor even if someone gave me a blank check for it. I'd do my research and check out Yamaha and Honda before buying another Tohatsu, but nothing over a 6. And we sail adventurously. :)
 
Jun 28, 2016
334
Hunter 23.5 Paupack, PA
This is why I never suggested going over max an 8 hp engine regardless of make.
Thank you again sir! Unfortunately, my skills aren't sharp enough to fix my 1994 Johnson 9.9 before my planned launch date, and so I'm looking to repower the H23.5 and sell the old Johnson down the road. My budget says no more than $2000, which puts the Tohatsu 8hp electric [edit: electric start] within reach. I was delighted to find your post about this very motor. When 9.9 was running last year, it would really move the boat very well. I wasn't sure about dropping down to the 8hp, but I'm now infused (perhaps confused) with confidence! [Edit#2: Ordered a Tohatus 6hp Sail Pro, thank you again for sharing your knowledge].
 
Last edited:
Jun 28, 2016
334
Hunter 23.5 Paupack, PA
So where's the best place to get a Tohatsu 6hp Sail Pro? [Edit: Nevermind, just ordered one from Millsboro, DE. It was like $1550 and free shipping. Averted disaster buying the 6hp instead of the 9.9, and saved a bunch by reading these posts! Extra ration of rum for all! Hip-hip hoo-rah! Thanks everyone.]
 
Last edited:

ilance

.
May 19, 2017
43
Catalina 22 Medford, Or
Keep the update going, once you've got it installed! My "free" C22 came without a motor. Locally, there's a 25" 2005 Tohatsu 6......but I'd have to buy a high thrust prop for it. I think I can get it for around $600. Honestly, I'm leaning really hard toward dropping the coin for a brand new one......

I've got an old Seagull in the garage. I remember well how loud and smoky it is! The temptation to a nice, quiet, one-pull motor is pretty intense! The consensus is pretty solid on this board for the SailPro.......and the feedback from a new owner would be pretty interesting to read.
 
Mar 20, 2015
3,095
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
Since this seems a good thread as any, to post a question about the tohatsu sailpro...
I was told there is a optional steering lock available for the sailpro.
Has anyone seen how it works ?
All I've heard about is the friction lock, which is, apparently, lacking.
 
Mar 20, 2015
3,095
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
thanks @Joe

I was told by the dealer that an optional lock is available, but she had no additional info. I wonder how well the optional lock works.

If you do a quick internet search you will find that many people have found the friction adjustment will eventually be unable to hold the motor straight when unattended.

Quotes:
"My Tohatsu friction lock has not worked since the day I purchased"

"We've got a 2008 Tohatsu 6hp (the 25" extra-long shaft version). It's a great engine so far, except for the lack of a steering lock. There's a steering friction..."

http://tillerfix.blogspot.ca/2014/08/tohatsu-tiller-lock-fix.html


It goes on and on... forum members have also posted about it.

EDIT: question solved...


Here's a link to the optional lock:
https://www.solutiononemaritime.com...odel-tohatsu-nissan-mercury-and-evinrude.html

"Caution: Once installed, the motor is locked in place and the tiller handle cannot be used to steer the boat unless kit is removed. IE Keep this in mind so you don't put yourself in harms way."

So... the lock is pointless if we want to be able to occasionally steer with the motor to improve turning.

here's a good quote about it's disadvantages:
" 2)If your transom is curved, like mine, this won’t work because the locked motor won’t provide thrust straight back. 3) The kit bolts on, so once installed, you can’t steer with the outboard because it’s locked. I wanted to retain the option to steer with the motor to allow for tight turns within marinas or smaller anchorages."

So the new question is....
If the motor lock is used on a C22 motor mount, will it thrust straight back or on a slight angle ?

@Gene Neill and, I believe, @CaptDon01 both have them and had the friction issue.
Maybe they know if the optional lock would allow it to thrust straight on a C22
 
Last edited:
Mar 20, 2015
3,095
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
FWIW I have no issue modifying the friction lock, though I worry about warranty refusal if I do it before the 5 yr warranty is up.
 

dzl

.
Jun 23, 2016
159
Catalina 22 Trailer
I don't have a clue about the Tohatsu... I have a Johnson, but I generally just tweak mine until it goes straight. It's usually not perfectly straight with the bracket. I suggest going out and using it and figuring where it needs to be set and building your own little plate with two bends in it to lock it anywhere you want it. You could probably even figure a way to make it hinged so you could unlock and steer with the motor for those situations when you need tight maneuverability
 
Mar 20, 2015
3,095
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
@dzl

Yeah. Likely can make something up. Surely can do it cheaper than the cost of the $30 optional kit, considering it is just a 90 degree bracket.
I have a lot of scrap stainless lying around.

I just discovered that the guy with the"tiller lock fix" blog, made a comment on his own post.
The 6 mm bolt used for tensioning the band broke last season. I replaced it and added a quick release nut to replace the wing nut which is a really nice feature.

That quick release sounds like a great idea. Especially so, considering the oem nut is a plastic wingnut.
 

dzl

.
Jun 23, 2016
159
Catalina 22 Trailer
I'm unfamiliar with the setup, but if it's a tensioning nut a cam lever like is common on bicycle seats seems like a great idea... maybe that's what he used. My Johnson has a flathead set screw. I just give it enough tension to hold it but I can still turn when I need to.
 
Mar 20, 2015
3,095
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
if it's a tensioning nut a cam lever like is common on bicycle seats seems like a great idea... maybe that's what he used.
I'm assuming that's what he did based on the photos of the original design function, in the link I posted above.

FWIW: I just found some interesting comments on two different forums, that say that the reason the friction lock is intentionally designed not to fully lock the motor, is that Tohatsu was concerned about liability.
The optional lock kit evidently includes a big warning sticker and warnings on each page of the install instructions. Sigh..
 

ilance

.
May 19, 2017
43
Catalina 22 Medford, Or
I was just gonna be cheesy and have a couple offset bungee snubbers. I've used this before on outboards.......holds it straight, where I set it, and I can still push it to turn.

As a kid we called it "redneck autopilot".......and had to learn the hard way to wear safety lanyards when using them......(don't ask.)
 
Mar 20, 2015
3,095
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
I was just gonna be cheesy and have a couple offset bungee snubbers. I've used this before on outboards.......holds it straight, where I set it, and I can still push it to turn.

As a kid we called it "redneck autopilot".......and had to learn the hard way to wear safety lanyards when using them......(don't ask.)
1) That's what some people have done. I don't know how far the tiller reaches but even a tiller tamer may work.
2) I'm asking I'm asking.... ;) (Though... I can imagine. hehe)