Flooring Ideas
- Thread starter jssailem
- Start date
Knowing John’s boat I suspect the main cabin would consume 3 sheets 1 sheet for head, Passage way and V birth. The final sheet would make sure it all lines up ( plus get me the half sheet I need
) Could be wrong and it would take careful templating to determine. Les
A good question. My boats original sole (8-10 section pieces), was built in strips of glued up teak and holly. The strips looked to be slightly over 1/2" thick (you have to engineer thickness to spans beneath). It was left raw (for grip) in 1961.
When I bought the boat, the sole was about 35 years old and nearly black from dirt, but still sound.
I broke the rules and sanded it reasonably clean. I decided the wood needed some protection, so I coated it with standard gloss spar varnish(no grit). We find there is plenty of grip as the gloss was quickly foot worn, to a satin. It has 'tooth'.
After 15 heavily used seasons, with a family of four (and two dogs) onboard, the varnish - nearly flat gloss - is still protecting the wood.
You could use more affordable woods than Teak and Holly for a strip built floor. I might use Honduran mahogany with White oak thin strips between. I can buy both for under $10 a board foot, locally. I'd test glue the woods and break them apart to be sure the bond worked.
Not particularly hard to build, easy to repair or re-glue if needed, doesn't delaminate, and will wear for decades with ease.
Just another option to using Teak and Holly plywood, which seems expensive.
I know I sound like a broken record, but Tom, that boat of yours is so beautiful. Thanks for the pictures.
Very good point about solid wood. The only real worry is in seasonal moisture changes that cause the solid wood panels to change dimensions across their widths. A rail glued across the ends or as a cross member underneath should help a lot.
- Will (Dragonfly)
Very good point about solid wood. The only real worry is in seasonal moisture changes that cause the solid wood panels to change dimensions across their widths. A rail glued across the ends or as a cross member underneath should help a lot.
- Will (Dragonfly)
Some of my sole pieces have battens screwed on the underside (some do not).
I think coating/sealing, all around, helps keep moisture levels in solid wood, under control. But you get seasonal expansion/contraction, with plywood(a bit less), as well.
I see solid wood as an affordable option in that the sheet T&H - if it is patterned correctly - can have a huge waste factor. Strip flooring, whether in a boat or a floor in a house, can have much less of a waste factor.
I like the composite materials and sheet stock, as well. Lot's of choices and different costs.
Nice job, my floor needs a upgrade and your method might just be the answer. Only problem is I would need to use thin ply as I have some curve to my floor.
The solid floor idea was among my considerations. Was not sue about the application to the salon deck. I redid our kitchen, hall way and front door entry in 3/4 tongue & grooved maple over plywood subfloor. It has served well for the past 22 years. It was prestained-stained and sealed maple. Product out of Canada. Just now starting to show some age in spots. Years of dogs and living have challenged some of the boards. Certainly it has aged to a warm light yellow. Very comfortable and not evident unless you compare to a few of the boards still packaged in the store room.
The boat flexing and eventual water intrusion (we all know it occurs) has me thinking about the 10 year life expectancy I am placing on the job.
The boat flexing and eventual water intrusion (we all know it occurs) has me thinking about the 10 year life expectancy I am placing on the job.
I considered vinyl plank last year but a couple of flooring guys I know advised against it.
I ended up going the traditional route, teak/holly. Coated it with epoxy to protect it over the winter, need to varnish it once it becomes warm again. One thing I noticed, with only epoxy on it, sure is slippery. I'm hoping once it's varnished it's not.
I ended up going the traditional route, teak/holly. Coated it with epoxy to protect it over the winter, need to varnish it once it becomes warm again. One thing I noticed, with only epoxy on it, sure is slippery. I'm hoping once it's varnished it's not.
When you put the final coat of varnish on, make it nonskid by sprinkling salt or sugar on the wet varnish. Let the varnish dry, then dissolve and wipe up the salt or sugar with a sponge, wet rags, or whatever. It leaves an irregularly dimpled surface. Might want to test on a scrap piece first. I experimented with density of application, height from which the salt was dropped, etc. If you are doing this on the boat, salt is probably better than sugar, so as to not attract bugs. More info in a thread I created about replacing my soles in my H31.
You can get similar on ebay in smaller quantity with free shipping. https://www.ebay.com/itm/90x240cm-M...ash=item56a91c629c:g:M8MAAOSwn9Vaac21&vxp=mtr
The look of some of that vinyl flooring is quite good but it just doesn't feel the same as wood.
Marine grade plywood with teak & holly veneer, works. A coating or two of sealer...poly on top. I redid the cabin sole of my Cal. First floor lasted over 25 years...if new one lasts another 25 years I'd be happy.
We also have Lonseal in our boat. Nearly indestructible. Love it.
Its standard on all Catalinas now.
I am in the middle of the same winter project now. Wondering about the finish, is Polyurethane or varnish better?
Already used epoxy on the edges and undersides.
Any advise welcome...
Already used epoxy on the edges and undersides.
Any advise welcome...
I thought Varithane was a varnish.
and, I'm sure your floors are great Les, not tragic at all.
- Will (Dragonfly)
and, I'm sure your floors are great Les, not tragic at all.
- Will (Dragonfly)
If you are sealing and want to even "tap dance" on a clear coating, use this...
http://mobilepaint.com/industrial/industrial-polyurethane-finishes/mothanehs1000hspolyenamel/
Idea: Get @Will Gilmore to put some Art on a Marine Grade Plywood floor and coat it with Mothane.
3000 yrs from now some archeologist will dig it up to display in a museum.
Jim...