Dripless shaft procedure
- Thread starter uralite
- Start date
You can for sure. Is this a genuine PSS shaft seal?
If so I can provide the steps you need to follow. If not then Maine Sail can provide the steps.
They are pretty much the same with all drip-less face type seals.
Charles
If so I can provide the steps you need to follow. If not then Maine Sail can provide the steps.
They are pretty much the same with all drip-less face type seals.
Charles
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You are going to spend a lot of time separating the trans coupling from the shaft before you can even attempt to slide the new seal on. I would not advise doing this in the water.
Thanks guys for your reply. I realized there was an engine specific forum, Ive been starting my thread here for replacing transmission. https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/hurth-hbw50-replacement.191384/
I am planning to replace with PRM60 and the shaft has been uncoupled from transmission. I am going to need to slide prop shaft to the rear(aft) 1/4" to allow for the new transmission to mate. It is a PSS shaft seal I think. Here is pic. It looks just like what is on PSS website. It has been completely dry and appears fine. I will order parts for the set screws etc when I put the transmission in and reattach the shaft. Ill then be looking for alignment threads.
I am planning to replace with PRM60 and the shaft has been uncoupled from transmission. I am going to need to slide prop shaft to the rear(aft) 1/4" to allow for the new transmission to mate. It is a PSS shaft seal I think. Here is pic. It looks just like what is on PSS website. It has been completely dry and appears fine. I will order parts for the set screws etc when I put the transmission in and reattach the shaft. Ill then be looking for alignment threads.
Attachments
You might be able to compress the bellows enough considering you have a flex coupler. If so, then no need to adjust readjust/move the PSS assembly itself.
In any case review this:
http://www.pyiinc.com/downloads/pss-shaft-seal/pss-type-a-pro-installation-instructions.pdf.
To move the shaft aftward - you need to release the collar set screws (there are 4 - in pairs one each on top of the other). These screws are 1/4 - 20 stainless and the allen is 1/8. Be sure to use a new allen wrench/bit - not an old one that is rounded off. Move the the shaft as far aft as you need to keeping the stainless collar firm against the carbon block. Means the shaft moves aftward and through the collar. Use some detergent on the shaft for smooth movement and verify the shaft has no nicks - must be dead smooth otherwise a nick might wreck the o-rings inside the stainless collar. Then when you have enough clearance set at least one allen screw so the collar is held firm against the carbon block.
When the transmission is in place release the allen screw and move the shaft forward holding the stainless ring firm aftward against the block as you draw the shaft forward. If you don't you will have a blast of water so just keep it firm against the carbon block as the shaft moves forward. Hook up the shaft to the flex coupler. Compress the bellows to final position (exactly as the instructions say) and set the stainless allen screws. Use new screws (all 4 of them) and toss the old ones. Make sure to use Loctite blue when you set the new screws - bellows compressed. These screws are set firm (6 ft lbs) so you don't need to mash them.
Also if you do not have one (can't tell from your photo) put a second shaft collar forward of the main one - available from PYI for about $30 additional to the new set screw kit. This makes sure the shaft cannot go aftward and the main collar cannot move forward.
If you are the nervous type - prudent people should be - then put the boat the ground. Same instructions however.
Charles
ps Unless this is same for same transmission exchange shaft/motor alignment comes next. Alignments are difficult with a drip-less stuffing box. But drip-less or not much easier when the boat is out of the water.
In any case review this:
http://www.pyiinc.com/downloads/pss-shaft-seal/pss-type-a-pro-installation-instructions.pdf.
To move the shaft aftward - you need to release the collar set screws (there are 4 - in pairs one each on top of the other). These screws are 1/4 - 20 stainless and the allen is 1/8. Be sure to use a new allen wrench/bit - not an old one that is rounded off. Move the the shaft as far aft as you need to keeping the stainless collar firm against the carbon block. Means the shaft moves aftward and through the collar. Use some detergent on the shaft for smooth movement and verify the shaft has no nicks - must be dead smooth otherwise a nick might wreck the o-rings inside the stainless collar. Then when you have enough clearance set at least one allen screw so the collar is held firm against the carbon block.
When the transmission is in place release the allen screw and move the shaft forward holding the stainless ring firm aftward against the block as you draw the shaft forward. If you don't you will have a blast of water so just keep it firm against the carbon block as the shaft moves forward. Hook up the shaft to the flex coupler. Compress the bellows to final position (exactly as the instructions say) and set the stainless allen screws. Use new screws (all 4 of them) and toss the old ones. Make sure to use Loctite blue when you set the new screws - bellows compressed. These screws are set firm (6 ft lbs) so you don't need to mash them.
Also if you do not have one (can't tell from your photo) put a second shaft collar forward of the main one - available from PYI for about $30 additional to the new set screw kit. This makes sure the shaft cannot go aftward and the main collar cannot move forward.
If you are the nervous type - prudent people should be - then put the boat the ground. Same instructions however.
Charles
ps Unless this is same for same transmission exchange shaft/motor alignment comes next. Alignments are difficult with a drip-less stuffing box. But drip-less or not much easier when the boat is out of the water.
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I have done it a few times when changing the transmission. The easiest way is to use zip ties to keep the stainless steel collar against the carbon block. You put one loose zip tie around the shaft (between the collar and the coupling). Then use two more zip ties tied to the zip tie around the shaft and attached to some point aft of the PSS. The good thing about the zip ties is that you can pull gradually to compress the below. Then you can do whatever you want with the shaft. I had mine left with the zip ties on for about a week while I was sorting out the engine mounts.