Deck Organizers

[kclancy]

Hey Gang,
Can anyone that has led their lines aft weigh in on how they organized their lines? Which lines did you run to the cockpit? Right now I have only my jib halyard on the port side and the main halyard and topping lift on the starboard side. I also plan to have a reefing line in the future. Should also plan to run my boom vang thru the deck organizer too? I also have a jib downhaul, but that line will not run through the deck organizer. I am trying to do this only once (haha!).

I am trying to determine if I need a two-line, three-line, or a combination of both sized deck organizers. I am thinking that two triples will give me the most options. It looks like a lot of the deck organizers are stackable. That would give me some options later down the road if I decide to run more line aft.

All thoughts and ideas are appreciated!
Kevin

 

[Justin_NSA]

Whatever lines from the mast that you no longer want to go forward to handle are the ones to count. You'll also want a mast plate for turning blocks. A furling line would run along the stanchions and not need an organizer spot.

 

[CloudDiver]

I have a pair of triples followed by Andersen #10 Winches. To be honest, I'm fairly certain I could have gotten away with just doubles for 4 lines led aft. Special note, installing triples requires modification, in my case losing the teak handrails and installing stainless handrails more outboard to make room. I used thickened epoxy to create flat top mounts on the rounded drip rail, and that only works if you either gelcoat them or are painting the deck anyway.

So here's how I think the lines will work, and in no order what position they are placed in; I have not finished rigging yet.

1. Main halyard (No brainer)
2. Jib halyard (ditto)
3. Single line reef (probably a no brainer)
4. Spinnaker halyard (Don't have one, but pretty sure it would go here)
5. Boom Vang (not sure if I need it led aft, I think I can reach it from cockpit anyway)
6. Main downhaul

I won't have a Jib downhaul because I have furling.
Notice I didn't put in a Cunningham, not sure I need one.
The Spin halyard spot will obviously be left open because I don't have that sail, so I could sub something.

Have I left out any lines? There is a lot of freedom to rig however you want, but you have to make choices on what you want to spend for expensive boat bits and how much room you have to cram it all in. Honestly, go with a pair of doubles unless you want to go through the trouble of getting rid of the handrails.

 

[kclancy]

Thanks for the listing of the lines you will be installing. I can also probably just use doubles on both sides. I'll need to check how much room I have on the cabin top. It looks like plenty of room because I have just a sliding cabin top, not the pop-top model.

 

[CloudDiver]

Thanks for the listing of the lines you will be installing. I can also probably just use doubles on both sides. I'll need to check how much room I have on the cabin top. It looks like plenty of room because I have just a sliding cabin top, not the pop-top model.

I must have missed that detail if you had mentioned it before... yes, you should have enough room for triples without messing with the handrails. If you want winches behind the clutches, you might still have to cut off the last run or the handrail, but that's easy. Finding a pair of stock ARCO winches on ebay is easy and cheap. The only question to answer is if you really need triples and want to pay the extra for them.

 

[Joe]

Run the jib downhaul along the stanchions, same as you would a furling line. Put its cleat on the coaming, above the box, so you can stow the excess inside. If you have an adjustable tack line for your gennaker, or a fore guy for your spinnaker pole... run it along the stanchions on the opposite side. The idea is to keep those foredeck lines from crossing the deck to the house creating trip hazards.

On my boat I have Main and Spinnaker halyards in clutches on starboard side leading to winch. Vang and Cunningham use vee cleats on starboard, but not winched. The organizer is a Garhauer 2x2 . On the port side I have another 2x2 organizer but currently only two clutch controlled jib halyards. So there are two open spaces for future changes.

 

[Stu Jackson]

I won't have a Jib downhaul because I have furling.

In that case, don't bother running the halyard aft.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

I would put stacked doubles (2x2) on each side before I would consider triples (1x3). Smaller footprint, 2 more options. I would use 2 clutches on both sides (to begin with) for jib halyard and reef on port side, main halyard and topping lift on stbd side. I would prefer to have 2 reefs, so I would put the 2nd reef line on the stbd clutch and do something else with the topping lift.
Next, use 2 more sheaves on the organizer for the vang and the outhaul led aft to cam cleats on the cabin top.
You can then have those 2 extra sheaves on the organizer ready for additions, say a spinnaker halyard, Cunningham, spin topping, vang on both sides ... anything that you choose.
Of course, if you don't want that many lines led aft, just stick with a double on each side.

 

[Jackdaw]

In that case, don't bother running the halyard aft.

Halyards are not just up and down binary controls.
Depending on how sail trim tweeky you are, you will want the jib halyard back to adjust jib halyard tension. Controls shape and draft position.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Also, I didn't see Kevin indicate he has furler (that was CloudDiver comment). I've said it before ... the smaller the boat, the less I like standing next to the mast to do anything. Flat water, not so bad. Coastal sailing in a small boat ... better off in cockpit.

 

[Justin_NSA]

Don't forget the mast base-plate and turning blocks. The plate: you can get a Dwyer from Catalina Direct. The block brands are a personal choice. Don't over spend on blocks for a Cat22. Nothing wrong with 22s, they just don't have the same loads.

 

[ChileanJK]

I started with one triple on starboard, CD base plate (6 holes for blocks), double clutch for Main and Genoa halyards this was my starting point, last weekend installed the boom vang and the line is over my head so no need to led the line anywhere, I'm testing a jib downhaul with a nice failure, but I think I 'll led the line by a block on the genoa track while I find the stanchions.

 

[mm2347]

I used a mast plate for blocks, run main and jib halyards back thru a Harken double organizer mounted on a wood base that extends a couple of inches outside of cabin and the halyard run back to a double clutch. My jib down haul runs down the outside of the deck on the same side so I can control the halyard and downhaul from the same place. I have considered running a reef line and topping lift on opposite side. I think the cost w/ new haylards was about $400 to $500. Makes getting sails down on windy, bumpy days far less stressful.

 

[mm2347]

I wanted to add: Jackdaw is correct on adjustment. For me I find I will more likely adjust tensions for sail shape that I often didn't before running lines back. Climbing up on cabin to get to the halyard at the mast, adjusting only to find I needed a little more or a little less then repeat was a pain. Added to the situation is that the 222 will not hold a heading for very long without correction on the tiller. I singlehand often and do not have an autopilot.

 

[Gene Neill]

I used a mast plate for blocks, run main and jib halyards back thru a Harken double organizer mounted on a wood base that extends a couple of inches outside of cabin and the halyard run back to a double clutch. My jib down haul runs down the outside of the deck on the same side so I can control the halyard and downhaul from the same place. I have considered running a reef line and topping lift on opposite side. I think the cost w/ new haylards was about $400 to $500. Makes getting sails down on windy, bumpy days far less stressful.

You wouldn't have any pics, would you? I've tried to rig a downhaul in the past and found it more cumbersome than it was worth. I'd love to find out I was just doing it wrong.

 

[mm2347]

Gene, I'm sorry I don't have pictures and the boat is under a tarp in a snowbank. (I live in Northern WI)The 222 Oday has a large companionway leaving the top of cabin sides narrow. Added to this is a handrail and jib sheet rail taking some of the limited space. To get the halyards back and not rub anything I needed to extend the deck organizer sideways a couple of inches wider than the cabin top. It hangs over the side of the cabin top a bit. It was also necessary to change the plane and height of the deck organizer to keep the halyards level. I used a block of wood mounted on the cabin top and mounted the deck organizer with blind nuts to the block. It was a pain, many trips up and down, to shape the mounting block to the cabin, get the correct angles, height and as unobtrusive as possible. Now the halyards run from the bottom of the mast thru a block to the side of the cabin top. From there they run aft and on side of the cabin top to a double clutch that is in front of a winch just short of the very rear of the cabin top. No one but me has noticed the set up probably because the cabin is wider at the base than at the top. I have yet to figure out where to secure the halyard ends to be out of the way often just throwing them into the cabin.
I prefer a hank on jib w/ a down haul. The downhaul is run on the extream edge of the deck back to the aft of the cabin on the same side as my halyards. I can easily reach everything at the same time as well as control the boat with the aid of a tiller extension. The advantage is the ability to keep the jib within the deck area when lowering it by slight changes of boat angle so the wind pushes the jib where you want it. The downhaul allows you to keep the head of the jib where you want it. When lowered the jib sheet can be snuged and secured and the jib stayes on the deck but can be raised quickly if needed.

 

[ShotgunSlim]

Sorry to hear of your down haul troubles Gene. Since we have pretty much the same boats, I'll describe what I've done to rig my down haul as simply as possible. I bought a bunch of small plastic rings from West Marine, removed my fore stay quick connector, ran the fore stay through the rings and put the connector back on. When I hank on the head sail, I space the rings out between every couple of hanks. I have a small block fixed to the stem fitting right under the head sail tack. I tie the down haul to the top hank on the head sail, thread it down through the small plastic rings, through the turning block, through the outside of the deck organizer next to the jib halyard and back to a small jam cleat next to the jib halyard cleat. Direct, easy to use and the jam cleat keeps the sail from being blown back up the halyard on a windy day. Hope this helps, I have to no pictures to go with the description.

 

[mm2347]

If you don't have a quick connector on your forestay you can use small carabiners instead of rings. To attach the line to the jib I use a 2in long 1/2in pvc pipe cut end to end on one side and a hole drilled at bott. end to tie the line . A small notch at one end of the cut will help slide the pipe over the forestay. I've had the best results putting it between the first (head) and second hank. A small amount of tension at all times will keep the line from tangling.