All, A little over a year ago I bought a 2004 Hunter 260 sailboat. Crazy Dave Condon was kind enough to go through everything step by step with me on what I should look for when buying it. I wrote everything he told me down, and am here to share it. I hope this helps someone who is interested in buying the boat. It has been the perfect boat for my needs, and I couldnt be happier with it. Feel free to add to the list or make suggestions. Thank you all very much on this forum, as this forum has helped me and countless others. And once again, thank you Crazy Dave Condon for all your help and contributions. To any future H26/H260 owners, good luck with your purchase! TRAILER: Brake reservoir – check for fluid. Bleed the brake lines if needed. Check bunk boards for Rotten Wood. Check to see if the wheels turn freely. If they turn freely, good to go. If any hesitation or looseness, replace the bearings. The bearings us a 1.98” or 2” racer. NOTE – The second axle can add trailer brakes to if needed. OUTSIDE OFF BOAT: Outboard – make sure it runs and has a steady stream of water coming out the back. Check to make sure the outboard shifts properly. NOTE: Do not use ethanol gas. It will gunk up the outboard. Check shrouds. If a single strand is broken on any shroud, replace entire shroud. Check sails for sail rot Check Biminis for rot Check mast. If any dents on mast, need to get replaced. Under the Hull, look at center board and rudder. Centerboard: If the Centerboard line needs to be replaced 7/16” line yacht braid low stretch. Will need approximately 20’ to do. Will need 1-1/8” Deep socket to do so. Wiggle centerboard down. Make sure centerline stays on roller. Duct tape on the two stainless steel pins when reinstalling the centerboard. Check Neoprene gasket on wing nut on ballast INSIDE OF BOAT (When the boat is in the water) Rear Berth, pull out the cushions. Pull out the board underneath cushions closest to the steps. Look in with flashlight. If wet, check the weep hole on floor pate at rear berth wall (The hull to deck joint). If dry, good! Check all through hull points for leaks Take the plates off the base of the compression post (under the table). Look for water at the base. INSIDE OF BOAT (While under sail) Before setting sail, put a gallon of red cool aid powder into the water ballast tank. This will help you determine if you have water leaking in, if it is coming from the ballast tank. Look at the base of the compression post base while sailing. It can leak under rough conditions. Look at nut for centerboard bracket. Look under galley sink and forward storage locker. SECURING THE BOAT FOR A TRAILER Do the trailer bump to get the boat to slide forward. This means speed up and slam on the brakes, so the boat is snug against the roller of the trailer. After you 20 miles, pull over and check the tie downs to make sure they are all still tight. Every 100 miles, pull over and check the tie down and bearing hubs on the trailer. If hubs are VERY hot, pull off. Tie Down – Put a strap over the cockpit. Twist the strap a couple times to prevent wind slap. Secure the winch handle. Tie it down to the winch stand. Safety chain – turn it enough so it does not slap on the bow. Mast – make sure to put carpet where it rubs the rail. Take a 4x4, put a slight indentation in the middle, and put the 4x4 across the bow rails. Put the mast on top of the 4x4 and strap it down. Rudder – Loop the rudder like a cow and go to port side stern rail, then the back of the rudder, then the front, then pull the lines together. Rope the handle on the outboard and tie it to the rail to keep it from bouncing. Leave the motor down. Shroud covers – get some for the upper and lower. Get medium size turnbuckle covers made by davis. Keep the lower shroud lines from chaffing the boat. Take a line from the spreader tip and securing it to the lifeline. Do not secure the roller furling to the mast. If it is a CDI furler, take the bottom of the drum, attach it to the mast where you sinch it down, tie it off. Lay it down along the deck and tie off to the stations. Cold pressure the tires should be at 44 to 50 psi. Make sure the inflation is the proper inflation. Make sure to take the wind vane off on top of the mast. Disconnect the VHF as well for long trip lengths. Take a rag and put a cushion where mast is on the crutch roller. Make sure the ladder is up. If the trailer starts to sway, speed up then slow down again.