A few random questions

Scott B · Feb 23, 2019

1. Which wheel lock, round spin lock on the centre of the wheel or autopilot. Wheel lock on the wheel may have some movement, autopilot should not.
2. No, mine has no movement.
3. Yes? Most likely wired that way if still stock and most modifications will include some way of charging house batt's but depends on your set up.
4. We've used ours for 12 years and have no problems and use it up and down all the time. Are there rubber bumpers between the seat and the cockpit floor. Also when you step on it, step on the outer half rather than inside the pivot point. Not that we've ever consciously had to do this. As far as the latch, I've just developed a routine to grab the latch, push up on the seat and lower with the rope.

Scott B · Feb 23, 2019

Which auto do you have.

Scott B · Feb 23, 2019

Mine is the 4001, so would be different. Raymarine also have a forum for tech help and are very good

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Ralph Johnstone · Feb 23, 2019

On something as important as your electrical wiring, you should have a copy of your own system and not rely on opinions. A search of the treasure trove of boat manuals on this site may just produce the drawings you are after.

To my knowledge, later model Hunters have the same wiring as shown here on my '99:

When the output from your alternator (circled note on RH side) leads to the common pole of your battery switch (shown as F) the current can be directed to 1 (B1), or 2 (B2), or BOTH (B1+B2). For this reason, with this wiring arrangement, you would never turn the battery switch to OFF or there go the diodes in your alternator.

Normally when running on engine, we turn the switch to BOTH to make sure everything is being charged.

Stu Jackson · Feb 23, 2019

Thank you ever so much Ralph that makes perfect sense.

Here's why:
OEM 1-2-B Switch Wiring History http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4949.msg30101.html#msg30101

shemandr · Feb 23, 2019

1) The wheel stop on my 356 was more like a brake. You could still move the wheel some while it was fully engaged.
2) We had the belt driven AP and we could turn it some without disengaging the AP. I consider this a good thing.
3) The upcoming answers on this could well take us into March Madness, entertainment wise. This subject has been cooked, processed, and re-baked on this forum. But it is important and there is great expertise headed your way. For me, I settled on never having my batteries on both or 1-2. I like to keep them separate for charging. That may be contrary to the prevailing opinion here. But my 356 was set up to be a bit of a dock queen and charge through the inverter/charger. There are so many variables...
4) I don't know if we are talking about the same seat. Why is it a death trap open?

Scott B · Feb 24, 2019

BTW, do you have a copy of the manual, it has the stock electrical diagram.

Stu Jackson · Feb 24, 2019

jngotasail said:
Stu, That was a great and very informative read. Thank you.

Glad to help. Here are some more links for you:

Electrical Systems 101 http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5977.0.html

Scott B · Feb 24, 2019

jngotasail said:
Stu, That was a great and very informative read. Thank you.

Scott B, yes I have the manual.

shemandr, Thank you for your reply. I looked at the mechanism for the wheel lock or as you call it a brake and I concur there is no way that it is capable of locking the wheel solid. Its just a small pin and could not build up enough friction. I agree with you its probably a good thing. This is my first boat with a wheel and I do not have any experience at all with wheel auto pilots so the movement that I have is a curiosity rather than a concern. I am going to take Scott B's advice and ask around on the Raymarine forum
The seat! I just find it annoying that when it is in the open position and you step onto it, if you don't step on past the pivot point then it hinges up towards you. Yes It catches on the latch but to me this is a safety concern. But maybe that's just me? I just thought that it would be one part of the boat that you would want to be pretty solid and stable. I'll look at it later in the year and if I can figure out a solution then I will let you all know.

You should make sure it hits the latch when you open it. That would stop it from swinging.

Jake N Eggs · Feb 25, 2019

jngotasail said:
I have a new to me 2007 Hunter 33. I have a few random questions that will be irrelevant to the model and I thought it would be easier to group them together. The boat is on the hard right now. My previous boat had a tiller and this is my first with a pedestal wheel.
1. When the wheel lock is engaged there is still some movement in the rudder. Is this normal?
2. When the Raymarine wheel pilot is engaged should I feel some movement in the wheel if I push against it or should it be totally locked?
3. When running the engine will the alternator charge both the starter battery and house battery or only the starter battery?
4. This may be relevant to the model that I have but, the pivoting stern seat is already driving me nuts. When it is in "seat" mode it is awkward to unlatch to open up the stern. When it is open its a death trap! When you step onto it and you get that little wobble. Has anybody figured out a better latching system?

You have some answers already but here is my input. The steering runs through a bevel gearset at the wheel, vertical shaft down to the base of the pedestal, bolt on plate with stops at the base of the pedestal with a drag link connected and running aft to the rudder control plate. The drag link and the pedestal base is accessible by removing the plate behind the helm. 2 screws straight down at the pedestal and 2 screws in from the end at the stern. the plate slides out the back.

I don't think that there is a lot of movement in my steering system. If there is play in the drag link joints or the bevel gearset it could translate to some movement. I suggest to remove the plate and inspect the link connections.

I agree that the step is a hazard. Initially there was 2 rubber bumpers screwed to the back if the above mentioned plate. They may actually be missing on your boat. They were not really robust. I removed the bumpers and fabricated a plastic shim to fit between the plate and the step in the required thickness to eliminate any movement of the step when the lock pin is engaged in the seat down position. I had to taper the shim and I glued a piece of rubber to the shim. This was calculated in the thickness that the shim needed to be. The shim was screwed to the plate in the same screw holes as the bumpers were installed. Also check that the lock pin mechanism is tight and secure and that the shoulder bolts the the seat pivots on are tight. I had one bend at the threads and have replaced it. Unlocking the seat to lower it has not been a problem for me. The line that connects to the seat should go through a locking mechanism to hold the seat tight to the stops when it is deployed as a seat.

Nice boat by the way, I think that you will enjoy it. I may be a little biased.