A boat lift you can do solo..

[jssailem]

I came across this idea. A new one to me, but would have been valuable when I had my trailer sail boat.
https://www.jamestowndistributors.c...m_content=TotalBoat+Trailer-Mounted+Boat+Lift

 

[Will Gilmore]

Oh yeah, that looks like a real time and work saver. Now to come up with a dockside version.

-Will (Dragonfly)

 

[jssailem]

dockside version.

It is called a "Lift".

 

[Justin_NSA]

You beat me to it John. Saw that this morning from TotalBoat. Sounds like a good way to get smaller boats off of the trailer bunks for bottom painting.

 

[jssailem]

beat me to it John

Sorry Justin... I had an empty coffee cup and a working keyboard. And my fingers are flying today...

 

[rgranger]

...and it is only $600.

But seriously, this can be done for a lot less. I use three floor jacks ($75 ea) from Northern tools to jack up my trailer with the boat on it. Then I lay cinder blocks with boards on them under the boat and then lower the trailer back down. Easy peasy. Paint or whatever needs doing, then raise the trailer back up and take out the cinder blocks.

 

[Sailavie1]

I lay cinder blocks with boards on them under the boat and then lower the trailer back down

That is the easiest method for sure, just make sure you have a perfectly forming board that will carry the hull (and keel) weight over a large area. I used this technique to totally remove the trailer from underneath my previous boat the Mac 222. Just had to lift the hull, move the trailer as much and the jacks allowed, lower, reposition and repeat the process until the trailer was clear.

 

[rgranger]

I've also done this using a tree and some towing straps...

BEFORE!

 

[rgranger]

AFTER...

 

[jssailem]

Why yes. That works.
Nice paint job, by the way.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Too much work Frog good project bost fer ya

 

[Project_Mayhem]

...and it is only $600.

But seriously, this can be done for a lot less. I use three floor jacks ($75 ea) from Northern tools to jack up my trailer with the boat on it. Then I lay cinder blocks with boards on them under the boat and then lower the trailer back down. Easy peasy. Paint or whatever needs doing, then raise the trailer back up and take out the cinder blocks.

+1 for floor jacks. I would toss a board on the trailer, then the jack, then another board between the jack and the hull. Worked for the front half. Then we resorted to a fork lift for the back half

 

[Leeward Rail]

When I saw those a year or so ago, it got me wondering.... I have since acquired 4 screw jacks from old scaffolding and may eventually make my own similar setup for antifouling touchups.
The problem I see, is that my C22 doesn't have hard chines or 4 strong points for lifting at the sides.
Increasing the size of the pads, or running a strap under the hull would make me more comfortable.

That said. I do prefer the idea of lifting it and getting the trailer out of the way. That system won't do that.

 

[Will Gilmore]

You could make a set of ways out of hinged two bys with a diagonal brace that drags across a row of teeth. This is hard to describe without a picture, but I see it clearly in my head. The frames collapse in parallelograms and open to a rectangle. The diagonal brace is attached by a swivel at the top corner and lays along the toothed track at the bottom. After securing the upper bunks against the hull, pull the boat and trailer ahead with your tow vehicle, thus causing the collapsed parallelogram to open up and lift the boat off the trailer. Easy peasy!
Here, I did a quick sketch.

voilà! Boat off the trailer.

-Will (Dragonfly)

 

[Project_Mayhem]

I love Will's idea. I think the biggest challenge is keeping that lift from dragging on the ground while 2000+ lbs of boat is being pulled both forward and up at the same time

 

[Leeward Rail]

the biggest challenge is keeping that lift from dragging on the ground while 2000+ lbs of boat is being pulled both forward and up at the same time

Metal pegs into the ground would solve that.

I'd make the system with metal though. easy to fabricate with simple tools.

 

[Will Gilmore]

You both think the way I do. You should be afraid. Be VERY afraid.

Actually, the more the boat comes off the trailer, the less likely the system will drag. But you have to get it started.

-Will (Dragonfly)

 

[Leeward Rail]

Last year, I saw a video for a young man working on his sailboat.

He planned to modify these underhoist stands to use as boat stands.
https://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-underhoist-safety-stand-61600.html

I planned on using them, but hope to use a beam shaped to the hull curve.
The beam will support the hull better that using simple pads, and prevent the tendency of the stands to shift because the load will be straight down on the stands bases.

EDIT: I just noticed that walmart.com has brownell stands for online purchase.

Last fall I used a 2 post automotive lift to lift the boat.
With that method the biggest problem is preventing the lift arms from swinging inwards and putting too much pressure on the hull.
I used some heavy cargo straps around the back of the lift towers, and large pads against the hull.
To simplifiy things I'd want to make up some custom length chains instead of straps. a
But, using the lift is a problem since I have to rely on borrowing the use of the lift for a weekend. That limits the time window, and makes me rely on others. Unfortunately my garage isn't big enough for the boat.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

Those Harbor Freight stands have a lot of potential. I would use four of them all linked together at the base with 2x4's to form a square much like what is done with chains in a yard. I would then attach beams to the top that go over the boat. Straps would be attached to those beams. Once the trailer is lifted off the ground I would lower it onto a keel block. I definitely wouldnt leave it dangling in the air without more supports between the stands

As for using an automotive lift, I have seen some that have small teeth to prevent the arms from moving while the vehicle is in the air. I'm not sure how strong those little teeth are though.

I rent part of a shared warehouse that is divided up into smaller units. For many months there was 100k sqft of unused space. When I dropped my centerboard for repair I pulled the boat through an overhead door that had only a half inch of clearance on either side to get to a part of the building that had steel roof beams. I ordered two large lifting straps for a very reasonable price (can provide link if anyone would like) and used a bunch of round slings, chain and hardware to connect it all together. Two manual winches and an on deck human provided lifting power. I also had two ratchet straps to prevent the slings from sliding forward or aft. I would highly recommend using some sort of beam so your boat doesnt get pinched as its lifted in the air. I had spider cracks in the cabin afterwards. It was a bit nerve racking having a boat swaying back and forth while I was laying under it

If I were to do it again I'd pay the marina $125 to put it on a stand for the weekend. I could do the repair in a weekend now but not back then.

The other option is wood blocks, chain/straps and some boat stands which run about $130 each. I'm sure this is something that could be bought and then rented out to make your money back

 

[Leeward Rail]

As for using an automotive lift, I have seen some that have small teeth to prevent the arms from moving while the vehicle is in the air. I'm not sure how strong those little teeth are though.

Even relatively new ones are not strong enough. Our lifts are inspected regularly by a lift company. including the horizontal movement preventers on the arms. They are not designed to handle the type of side loads, that a boat in a sling will put on them. The lifts at the shop have two different designs of horizontal arm movement preventers. I tested both, and neither were strong enough to keep the arms from swinging into the hull. (Not to be confused with the vertical locks which prevent the load from crushing you if the hydraulics fail.)