Hunter 49 Aft Cabin Upgrade. Looks Great!
- Thread starter artboas
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OK, did I ever mention I hate you Art? Huh? Do you have the faintest idea how much this is going to grate on the minds of Hunter owners everywhere? I have looked at my V-berth and aft cabin and thought the same... but you did it!
This reminds me of "friends" who get their wives diamonds for Valentine's day and then tell the whole group what they did after the rest of us got a card and chocolates ;-)
This reminds me of "friends" who get their wives diamonds for Valentine's day and then tell the whole group what they did after the rest of us got a card and chocolates ;-)
Art, I don't believe you really did that; will you come do that on my boat to prove it! ha! Really, you did a great job and it looks great. I'm jealous but happy for you.
Art:
This look wonderful. How did you attach the wood planks to the backing? What type of wood is this?
This look wonderful. How did you attach the wood planks to the backing? What type of wood is this?
Thanks for the comments
Here are a few more details:
Started off with a cardboard template. You have to make it in several steps, and then tap the whole thing together.
The backing wood was a high grade 3/8" marine ply.
The strips that were tacked onto the wall to get the surface level were just ash cut-off pieces.
The plywood was then screwed onto the ash planks, and directly into the core material where the surface met the ply.
When installing the planks, you liberally apply construction adhesive onto the back of each plank.
The ash planks were nailed on with a pneumatic nail gun.
The tiny depressions from the nails were filled with a custom wood filler mix that I whipped up to match the planks.
The porthole was tricky.
I took the bezel ring, and installed it back onto the port with long screws which overlapped the planks that had not been trimmed.
I then scribed the exact outline of the aluminum ring onto the ash slats.
Removed the ring, and carefully trimmed the ash with a trim saw.
One last hurtle...
The aluminum ring, in order to be flush to the ash planks, would leave a large air gap behind the trim ring to the port face.
I made an aluminum spacer which exactly took up the differential.
I honestly Looked at the vinyl wall for 3 seasons until I just couldn't take it anymore. And also.... I ran out of other things to do to the boat.
The wood is Ash planking, and I got it from Hunter whom were phenomenally supportive.
Here are a few more details:
Started off with a cardboard template. You have to make it in several steps, and then tap the whole thing together.
The backing wood was a high grade 3/8" marine ply.
The strips that were tacked onto the wall to get the surface level were just ash cut-off pieces.
The plywood was then screwed onto the ash planks, and directly into the core material where the surface met the ply.
When installing the planks, you liberally apply construction adhesive onto the back of each plank.
The ash planks were nailed on with a pneumatic nail gun.
The tiny depressions from the nails were filled with a custom wood filler mix that I whipped up to match the planks.
The porthole was tricky.
I took the bezel ring, and installed it back onto the port with long screws which overlapped the planks that had not been trimmed.
I then scribed the exact outline of the aluminum ring onto the ash slats.
Removed the ring, and carefully trimmed the ash with a trim saw.
One last hurtle...
The aluminum ring, in order to be flush to the ash planks, would leave a large air gap behind the trim ring to the port face.
I made an aluminum spacer which exactly took up the differential.
I honestly Looked at the vinyl wall for 3 seasons until I just couldn't take it anymore. And also.... I ran out of other things to do to the boat.
Very Nice
But after seeing how much work was involved it makes sense why Hunter does not offer this pricey option for it's boats.
I have seen many mostly older sailboats that have some really nice teak wood work but most are no longer in the boat building because of the higher cost of making things today and so Hunter is always trying to give us a great sailboat
at a great price for sure.
I guess I would have gotten the dealer to fix that before taking it home,nothing is ever perfect and we all try to get some thing we pay for to be nicely finest but what's done is done and you did a good jobe and sure you feel really good about it.
I like the way Hunter builds a boat that lets me do more sailing than working on it for sure,boats always need some kind of work which I also enjoy doing some of it but less is alway better and sailing so much better.
Nick
But after seeing how much work was involved it makes sense why Hunter does not offer this pricey option for it's boats.
I have seen many mostly older sailboats that have some really nice teak wood work but most are no longer in the boat building because of the higher cost of making things today and so Hunter is always trying to give us a great sailboat
at a great price for sure.
I guess I would have gotten the dealer to fix that before taking it home,nothing is ever perfect and we all try to get some thing we pay for to be nicely finest but what's done is done and you did a good jobe and sure you feel really good about it.
I like the way Hunter builds a boat that lets me do more sailing than working on it for sure,boats always need some kind of work which I also enjoy doing some of it but less is alway better and sailing so much better.
Nick
Well Art, the only thing I can say, it that it looks wonderful. Thank you for the follow up info.
More questions
Art,
What a great job!!
How thick is the planking? How long were the nails you used attaching the planking to the 3/8 luan? How long were the screws you attached to the luan and into the hull ? I take it that you determined the hull thickness by measuring the thickness around the porthole.
I thought about doing something similar but am concerned about going through the hull.
Art,
What a great job!!
How thick is the planking? How long were the nails you used attaching the planking to the 3/8 luan? How long were the screws you attached to the luan and into the hull ? I take it that you determined the hull thickness by measuring the thickness around the porthole.
I thought about doing something similar but am concerned about going through the hull.
Spoke to Hunter about this
The reality is that Hunter puts a lot of money in places that dont' show up visibly: things such as excellent wiring systems, well designed water manifolds, etc. in order to stay competitive, they need to draw the line somewhere.
My understanding is that a Hunter 45 owner was able to get his aft cabin "customized" by the plant, but had to wait for the boat.
I would imagine that they would entertain this for new sales on larger boats.
The most difficult part of this entire job was the first 5 minutes. That was how long it took to rip a significant amount of material from the wall. I realized at that point that there was no going "backwards". Sort of a "now what have I done? " moment.
The issue is that boats are too far down the assembly stage to add this type of option. The only way to do it is order a new build, which puts delivery at the end of the pipeline, which most customers don't want.
The reality is that Hunter puts a lot of money in places that dont' show up visibly: things such as excellent wiring systems, well designed water manifolds, etc. in order to stay competitive, they need to draw the line somewhere.
My understanding is that a Hunter 45 owner was able to get his aft cabin "customized" by the plant, but had to wait for the boat.
I would imagine that they would entertain this for new sales on larger boats.
The most difficult part of this entire job was the first 5 minutes. That was how long it took to rip a significant amount of material from the wall. I realized at that point that there was no going "backwards". Sort of a "now what have I done? " moment.
As best as I can remember
I believe the nails were 3/4". They aren't all that important because each plank is affixed with construction adhesive. They aren't going anywhere.
The screws were likely 5/8", and need to be flathead.
You are screwing into the core, so you aren't going through the hull. In the sections where the hull had no core, I slapped on the wood slats with 5200. I guess you could use epoxy as well, but I knew the 5200 wasn't going to let go.
Yes, you can tell the hill thickness around the porthole. I did carefully look at every area to ensure there was no risk of going through the hull.
If you are serious about this, you might enquire if Hunter has any ash stock left. As it was pre-finisished, it was great to work with.
If not, you'll just need to take standard planks and run them down a router table to round up the edges.
BTW, I tried nailing initially with an electric nail gun. Not enough power, do uou need to go pneumatic.
The ash slats were the same ones already used by Hunter in the main salon. To my recollection they are 3/8"
I believe the nails were 3/4". They aren't all that important because each plank is affixed with construction adhesive. They aren't going anywhere.
The screws were likely 5/8", and need to be flathead.
You are screwing into the core, so you aren't going through the hull. In the sections where the hull had no core, I slapped on the wood slats with 5200. I guess you could use epoxy as well, but I knew the 5200 wasn't going to let go.
Yes, you can tell the hill thickness around the porthole. I did carefully look at every area to ensure there was no risk of going through the hull.
If you are serious about this, you might enquire if Hunter has any ash stock left. As it was pre-finisished, it was great to work with.
If not, you'll just need to take standard planks and run them down a router table to round up the edges.
BTW, I tried nailing initially with an electric nail gun. Not enough power, do uou need to go pneumatic.
My background is electronics, as you can probably tell by most of my posts. I have always been good with hand tools, but only got into woodworking 2 years ago. As they say, "measure twice, cut once". Can't tell you how much scrap this saves when you're a newbie.
Art:
How much did Hunter charge for the wood (per foot)? What size length & width?
We have a place out here on the West (Left) coast H & L Marine that can supply it too so it would be good to be able to compare prices.
How much did Hunter charge for the wood (per foot)? What size length & width?
We have a place out here on the West (Left) coast H & L Marine that can supply it too so it would be good to be able to compare prices.
No, it is straight plank
As you put the planks on, you had to give them a slight curve to keep snug with the adjacent before you nailed it in.
For this I made a spacer plank which I wedged between the bunk and the planks , with small shims. So as input up a plank, I wedged it into place beside the adjacent boards as I tacked it.
As I lay in planks, I cut the plank shorter by 2" for each plank I laid.
For the planks above the mid-line, I mounted a temporary plank at the very top, to act as my wedge surface. Hope this is explanatory.
If the wood had been T&G, I don't think the end result would have looked as good, as there would have been some spacing between the planks.
Glad you asked this question. Tongue & groove would have been far too easy.
As you put the planks on, you had to give them a slight curve to keep snug with the adjacent before you nailed it in.
For this I made a spacer plank which I wedged between the bunk and the planks , with small shims. So as input up a plank, I wedged it into place beside the adjacent boards as I tacked it.
As I lay in planks, I cut the plank shorter by 2" for each plank I laid.
For the planks above the mid-line, I mounted a temporary plank at the very top, to act as my wedge surface. Hope this is explanatory.
If the wood had been T&G, I don't think the end result would have looked as good, as there would have been some spacing between the planks.
Steve, it was awhile ago that I got the wood, and I don't think it would be at all comparable to current pricing.
If Hunter has the ash left in their plant, your big benefit is that it is pre-finished, and you won't need to router the edges.
If you'd like, I can investigate availability.
I think I've stirred up a pot here with a couple of Huntet owners.
I must tell you that every time I look at the finished result, I'm pleased.
It took 3 days start to finish, with 1 helper who knew what he was doing.
If you look at the photos, at the ends of the bunks, I put in vertical finishing strips. These were cut-offs from the planking. They were epoxied in place, with a few nails to hold them.
As the material was thin, I pre-drilled the nail holes so the wood wouldn't split.
If you're going to attempt this, I'll be happy to send more close-up photos.
You can make the ply back piece in as many sections as you need.
I should have split mine a little more, as it was a bear to maneuver such a large piece.
You might investigate a Home Depot some flexible ply that they sell for curved walls, etc.
If Hunter has the ash left in their plant, your big benefit is that it is pre-finished, and you won't need to router the edges.
If you'd like, I can investigate availability.
I think I've stirred up a pot here with a couple of Huntet owners.
I must tell you that every time I look at the finished result, I'm pleased.
It took 3 days start to finish, with 1 helper who knew what he was doing.
If you look at the photos, at the ends of the bunks, I put in vertical finishing strips. These were cut-offs from the planking. They were epoxied in place, with a few nails to hold them.
As the material was thin, I pre-drilled the nail holes so the wood wouldn't split.
If you're going to attempt this, I'll be happy to send more close-up photos.
You can make the ply back piece in as many sections as you need.
I should have split mine a little more, as it was a bear to maneuver such a large piece.
You might investigate a Home Depot some flexible ply that they sell for curved walls, etc.
Art:
This looks like the same material that I have on my 1994 Hunter Vision 36. The folks out in Calfornia had sent me samples of ash, mahogany, teak and some other wood. I was going to do something similar on my Hunter 31.
I may ask them what they would charge just to get an idea.
This looks like the same material that I have on my 1994 Hunter Vision 36. The folks out in Calfornia had sent me samples of ash, mahogany, teak and some other wood. I was going to do something similar on my Hunter 31.
I may ask them what they would charge just to get an idea.
Rick,
I can send you a cut-off in the mail if you wish.
This will give you a good basis for comparison
Arthur
I can send you a cut-off in the mail if you wish.
This will give you a good basis for comparison
Arthur
Our H336 came from the factory with ash planking in the main cabin, and we too have considered doing this in the V berth and aft cabin. Some questions.
Why does the planking need to be continously backed with plywood? The ash is pretty stout material, and it was my thinking that it should be able to span the space between one foot stringers with no problem. My thought on how to do this has been to adhere vertical stringers along the hull on one foot centers, each 2" or 3" wide and made of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood. These would be flexible enough to conform to the hull, and it would be easy to shim them as necessary to adjust for varying thicknesses.
The planking on my boat appears to be screwed in place and the holes plugged. The vertical rows of screw plugs makes a pleasing pattern, one I intended to duplicate if we did this job. Is there a reason you preferred nailing besides convenience?
Is it correct that you drove screws through the inner skin of the hull and into the internal core? !!! I guess that shouldn't cause any problems, but it really makes me cringe to think about puncturing the hull layup for cosmetic reasons. Maybe I'm just blissfully ignorant and this is how Hunter attached everything to the hull on my boat.
Finally, I'm confused by your final comments in the powerpoint you attached. You seem to be saying that it's a lot of work and it looks beautiful, but it would be better to duplicate the pattern in fiberglass and then put vinyl over it. I'm sure this isn't what you meant to say; could you explain a bit more?
Very nice job. We're in the middle of a total companionway and engine enclosure ripout and reconstruction. So far the most challenging part has been reproducing the odd shaped panel that forms the upper starboard companionway area on one side, and is the upper wall of the shower on the other. Not only is it a very odd shape, but it has teak veneer on one side and almond plastic laminate on the other.
Why does the planking need to be continously backed with plywood? The ash is pretty stout material, and it was my thinking that it should be able to span the space between one foot stringers with no problem. My thought on how to do this has been to adhere vertical stringers along the hull on one foot centers, each 2" or 3" wide and made of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood. These would be flexible enough to conform to the hull, and it would be easy to shim them as necessary to adjust for varying thicknesses.
The planking on my boat appears to be screwed in place and the holes plugged. The vertical rows of screw plugs makes a pleasing pattern, one I intended to duplicate if we did this job. Is there a reason you preferred nailing besides convenience?
Is it correct that you drove screws through the inner skin of the hull and into the internal core? !!! I guess that shouldn't cause any problems, but it really makes me cringe to think about puncturing the hull layup for cosmetic reasons. Maybe I'm just blissfully ignorant and this is how Hunter attached everything to the hull on my boat.
Finally, I'm confused by your final comments in the powerpoint you attached. You seem to be saying that it's a lot of work and it looks beautiful, but it would be better to duplicate the pattern in fiberglass and then put vinyl over it. I'm sure this isn't what you meant to say; could you explain a bit more?
Very nice job. We're in the middle of a total companionway and engine enclosure ripout and reconstruction. So far the most challenging part has been reproducing the odd shaped panel that forms the upper starboard companionway area on one side, and is the upper wall of the shower on the other. Not only is it a very odd shape, but it has teak veneer on one side and almond plastic laminate on the other.
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