Cabin Flooring
- Thread starter mjmercer19248
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I have always liked the idea of waterproof planks that are available made of either vinyl or rubber. There is a lot of commerial choice. A friend had a rubber plank floor in his kitchen. I don't know where he purchased it but it looked really good. Here is a link for Armstrong floors. They are just one of many out there.
http://www.armstrong.com/flooring/luxury-vinyl/luxe-plank.asp
http://www.armstrong.com/flooring/luxury-vinyl/luxe-plank.asp
I too like the idea of a vinyl floor BUT I believe I will have trouble with the "floating floor" technology. We have the bilge area to contend with and without two sides to contain the "floating floor" I think it will literally float around the entire cabin.
I need a vinyl floor, waterproof, glue down product
I need a vinyl floor, waterproof, glue down product
One Option...
... is Lonseal vinyl flooring: http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...d=267&cat_id=43&aid=7572&page=article&mn=40.5
... is Lonseal vinyl flooring: http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...d=267&cat_id=43&aid=7572&page=article&mn=40.5
how about 3/4 inch cabinet grade plywood (oak can be found in straight grain but you have to sort through the stacks) routed with 1/4 "white wood" (pick one) inlays.
I've used teak stain then done the inlay and planed the white wood down to just above the ply surface. finish with poly. Gives a nice slip resistant sole
You also have the opportunity to add below the sole access panels to improve your storage options
I've used teak stain then done the inlay and planed the white wood down to just above the ply surface. finish with poly. Gives a nice slip resistant sole
You also have the opportunity to add below the sole access panels to improve your storage options
I put carpet on our floor, 12" squares sticky back from Home Depot, two years ago. At the time we had so many projects that I wanted to do something quick. Took me one day, cut the carpet with scissors. Cost less than $100 and two years later it still looks good, so I'm in no hurry to replace it. Here is link to our album with pictures. http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/album.php?albumid=1733
Mary, I agree that the carpet squares are probably a good, quick and easy fix - the cabin sole certainly look nice in your pictures (fantastic what you and Bill have done with the boat BTW).
Up here in foggy, dank Nova Scotia I am trying to rid myself of all fabrics that could trap moisure and mold. I am getting rid of the 'mouse fur' slowly but surely, I had the upholstry redone in polyolfin fabric (which is hydrophobic) and I use a heater rather than A/C to control humidity down below! So I am afraid that I will have to bite the bullet and buy the teak and holly plywood when the sole renewal comes due. Actually its overdue. In the meantime, I laid a section of vinyl flooring in the galley area, as that was getting really bad from the usual "kichen traffic"...my quick and dirty fix. I suppose I should look at Lonseal teak & holly vinyl too, but its not cheap and I am not sure I could live with "fake wood".
Up here in foggy, dank Nova Scotia I am trying to rid myself of all fabrics that could trap moisure and mold. I am getting rid of the 'mouse fur' slowly but surely, I had the upholstry redone in polyolfin fabric (which is hydrophobic) and I use a heater rather than A/C to control humidity down below! So I am afraid that I will have to bite the bullet and buy the teak and holly plywood when the sole renewal comes due. Actually its overdue. In the meantime, I laid a section of vinyl flooring in the galley area, as that was getting really bad from the usual "kichen traffic"...my quick and dirty fix. I suppose I should look at Lonseal teak & holly vinyl too, but its not cheap and I am not sure I could live with "fake wood".
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the teak (laminate) is only 1/4" but I do believe there is at least 1/2" marine plywood underlayment. Am I wrong?
H37C Cabin Sole - thickness
http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...&cat_id=38&aid=7532&page=article&mn=37-cutter
On my 1983, it is just 1/4" ply glued directly to the fiberglass cabin sole. The plugs that look like they are covering screw heads are just for show. Remove the hatch covers for the bilge and you should be able to measure the thickness. Here are pics from another owner showing the sole after the ply is removed:
http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...&cat_id=38&aid=7532&page=article&mn=37-cutter
I replaced the teak plywood floor in my 1982 H-30 with solid vinyl teak colored flooring from Home Depot. Took the old floor panels out of the boat and made up the replacements in my basement shop. Glued them down to the sole in the boat with dabs of silicone ever 8" or so. This way I can remove the vinyl if I need to.
I should have had a helper to lift the main cabin panel into the boat or made it in two pieces but I was able to get it up the latter over the cockpit and through the hatch alone, It might have been easier to make it in 2 pieces and assemble it in the boat, but I was able to do it alone.
I used 2 packs of flooring about $60.00 each. Took a day to fabricate using the old panels as templates.
Not as classy as solid teak or the expensive fake teak flooring you can buy but hey... this is a 30 year old boat that I use. The vinyl is unaffected by gas, oil, sand, salt, sunscreen and just about anything you can do to it. At 1/5th the cost of wood it's a no brainier for me.
I should have had a helper to lift the main cabin panel into the boat or made it in two pieces but I was able to get it up the latter over the cockpit and through the hatch alone, It might have been easier to make it in 2 pieces and assemble it in the boat, but I was able to do it alone.
I used 2 packs of flooring about $60.00 each. Took a day to fabricate using the old panels as templates.
Not as classy as solid teak or the expensive fake teak flooring you can buy but hey... this is a 30 year old boat that I use. The vinyl is unaffected by gas, oil, sand, salt, sunscreen and just about anything you can do to it. At 1/5th the cost of wood it's a no brainier for me.
It seems he just needs to replace the veneer, his floorboards are apparently in good shape. Go ahead and google "marine wood veeners" and you may also check Home Depot wood veeners for less expensive products. Depending on how dry is the boat you may not need a marine grade veener.
When I built larger drawers, I saved the original plywood bottoms. Hunter used, at least on my boat, scraps of teak and holly plywood. Check it out.
It's something to keep in mind if you need to replace a worn out or damaged part of the cabin sole.
It's something to keep in mind if you need to replace a worn out or damaged part of the cabin sole.
Hunter did that also in my 1981 Hunter 33... I was quite surprised when I pulled the drawers to varnish them and saw the bottoms.
Carpet Squares
Very interested in more information on the Shaw carpet squares. Looks like you cover a hatch or two. Any problems with the edges fraying on the edges? I've got several hatches to deal with and regular carpet frays badly.
Re: Carpet Squares
Have had the carpet squares installed since Sept 2010 with no fraying. Covered the floorboards for access to the bilge which required trimming the squares. The main thing to be aware of when installing is to be careful about running the nap same direction for all squares. Otherwise, it will look a little different.
Have had the carpet squares installed since Sept 2010 with no fraying. Covered the floorboards for access to the bilge which required trimming the squares. The main thing to be aware of when installing is to be careful about running the nap same direction for all squares. Otherwise, it will look a little different.
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