Pump with dry bowl only

Squidd · Sep 25, 2012

I don't think so, from bowl to tank is valved and pumped from the bottom of the pump and freshwater intake is valved and pumped from the top of piston...two seperate systems.

onecoolair · Sep 25, 2012

No more wire coat hangers solutions!

I only use the dry bowel setting. And we only use the shower spray nozzle to rinse bowel. At least 1 to 2 full bowels of fresh water to clear the line each time. Between 3 and 4 when leaving boat after the weekend. Making sure no waste is left in line. On ocassion when cleaning will switch to wet mode to flush but only to clean any crudd out of that portion of pump. The raw water line is not even hooked up. That through hull fitting is used for extra a/c pick up. Been planing for a few years now to install small fresh water tank for head under lavatory sink but just have not gotten to it yet. No Paper Period its the law!!! I don't care what she say's! No more wire coat hangers solutions!

tsaiapex said:
My Sabre 28 was used in inland lake so the head was rarely used; the intake hose was not hooked up and there is no discharge hose. In an effort to keep the tank as clean as possible, I asked my family to pour fresh water from sink into the bowl after use. Because there is no reason to pump at wet bowl setting to draw outside water, the head is only used at dry bowl setting.

After a long weekend with the family, the head is now clogged. Upon studying Peggy's book that descirbed the double-action pump at wet bowl setting (up to draw water, down to push the waste), I am now wondering if pumping only at wet bowl setting is not moving the waste far enough.

Any thoughts?

Joe · Sep 25, 2012

I think you should hook the system up the way it was designed.... intake water water through a vented loop to head, discharge from head through vented loop to tank, tank to Y valve.... one way to deck pump out, the other way through maceratored direct discharge. If macerator is illegal on your lake, then zip tie the y valve set to pump out.

I just can't imagine the benefit of dry pumping all the time just to get a few more uses before pump out. I think you need the water, salt or fresh, to facilitate the pump and provide a medium for the chemicals in the holding tank to do their job.

JK_Boston_Catalina310 · Sep 26, 2012

Stu from the C34 owners group suggested a great modification. Put a y valve on your head sink drain and connect it to the freshwater side of the pump. Then you can just fill up the sink and pump that water through.

woodster · Sep 26, 2012

Joe said:
intake water water through a vented loop to head, quote]

can some one tell me how you can suck intake water through a vented loop from the outside of the boat with a vented loop in the line by pumping with the head hand pump...as i see it the vented loop acts as a anti siphon valve and that valve will not let the pump pull water......

regards

woody

zeehag · Sep 26, 2012

i do not understand why everyone wants to reinvent the wheel, especially when that wheel works so very well as designed. salt water cuts body fluids.
sea water toilets were designed to use SEA water.
so it gets a smell if not pumped properly--learn to pump properly.... is sooo easy. stagnant salt water turns sour and smells like rotten eggs. flush that thru the head--takes 3 gallons pumped thru and you will be sooo happy and you wont need to use precious drinking water to flush head when sailing on a short or long cruise.

even i can hold breath for 3 gallons of water to be pumped thru a system...and vinegar also helps negate that odor. so does odorlos..... do not mix the 2 in a holding tank, as vinegar negates the work of the enzymes in odorlos.

onecoolair · Sep 26, 2012

No Sea Water around here

...You would not want to use the upper Bay water to flush your head around here! No Sea Water around here. You can not even call it fresh.

zeehag said:
i do not understand why everyone wants to reinvent the wheel, especially when that wheel works so very well as designed. salt water cuts body fluids.
sea water toilets were designed to use SEA water.
so it gets a smell if not pumped properly--learn to pump properly.... is sooo easy. stagnant salt water turns sour and smells like rotten eggs. flush that thru the head--takes 3 gallons pumped thru and you will be sooo happy and you wont need to use precious drinking water to flush head when sailing on a short or long cruise.

even i can hold breath for 3 gallons of water to be pumped thru a system...and vinegar also helps negate that odor. so does odorlos..... do not mix the 2 in a holding tank, as vinegar negates the work of the enzymes in odorlos.

Stu Jackson · Sep 26, 2012

JK_Boston_Catalina310 said:
Stu from the C34 owners group suggested a great modification. Put a y valve on your head sink drain and connect it to the freshwater side of the pump. Then you can just fill up the sink and pump that water through.

You don't even need a Y valve!

Head Odors 101.1 - "T" into sink drain: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5755.msg38216.html#msg38216

Stu Jackson · Sep 26, 2012

woodster said:
Joe said:

intake water water through a vented loop to head, quote]

can some one tell me how you can suck intake water through a vented loop from the outside of the boat with a vented loop in the line by pumping with the head hand pump...as i see it the vented loop acts as a anti siphon valve and that valve will not let the pump pull water......

regards

woody

Click to expand

You're right, you can't. The vented loop should NOT be on the intake line between the thru hull and the pump, it should be between the pump and the bowl.

RTFM