What is the best location for anchor fairleads on 26C?

[Cruiser1]

At present my anchor rode is cleated off in the center of the deck and just runs over the edge of the gunwale. Not so good from the point of view of chaff on the rode and wear on the deck (see first photo). Note: if the photo looks a little confusing that is a black plastic pipe attached to the rear pulpit staunchion with the stainless steel hose clamp. The small plastic fairlead, at the front of the photo, is for the furling line on the CDI furler.

I would like to install an anchor rode fairlead preferably about 8" forward of the front pulpit staunchion, however that area is not accessible from underneath as the head liner that contains the foam floatation is fibreglassed to the deck about 3" in front of that staunchion (see second photo).

I gather it is desirable to have the fairlead off centre from the bow to reduce 'hunting' when at anchor, but not too sure how far back I should go from the bow. Would it be OK to put the fairlead just behind the front staunchion?

 

[THECUSCUS]

Why not put an anchor roller on? You might have to cut an "access" hole in your front liner to get at the fasteners for it, but shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Cruiser1]

Why not put an anchor roller on? .............

Yes, I have been thinking that one through a lot but decided to put that decision off for a later day because of numerous other issues. The fairleads would not only be for anchoring but also for mooring ropes. It actually amazes me that the boat is 20 years old and has never had such items. Guess the POs may have only done day sailing or some such issue.

Thanks for posting the photo TheCuscus. Did you pack underneath that roller to allow for the raised edge of the deck near the gunwale?

 

[MrBill_FLL]

...

I would like to install an anchor rode fairlead preferably about 8" forward of the front pulpit staunchion, however that area is not accessible from underneath as the head liner that contains the foam floatation is fibreglassed to the deck about 3" in front of that staunchion (see second photo).

note: you can cut the front of the v berth to gain access. then install a round cover plate or something else.

some folks have turned that area into a chain/rode locker. -but in salt water it may smell.

 

[THECUSCUS]

I did not pack anything under the roller where the step is. The last bolt is as close to the edge as i could get it (under the chain in the picture). On the underside I have a 1/4" aluminum plate for backing. You can see how I opened up that area to gain access as i had to fix the bow eye also.

 

[Sumner]

We anchor out virtually every night that we are on the boat and having really functional anchoring gear is essential. Our Mac came with ..

.... with the center cleat and also a cleat on the port and starboard side just ahead of it. There were also two bow chocks ahead of the forward stanchions (one is blocked from view by the anchor tube above).

If you anchor much and use two anchors at the same time the above I feel is a very good starting point and I'm glad the boat came with it as we didn't have a clue how to anchor at first and this at least helped from that stand point.

Then I added....

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/rigging-16.html

...the two bow rollers. This is a great upgrade especially if you are moving up in age and it also takes care of dragging the chain over the side of the boat and having to reach over to pull the anchor up.

One thing I didn't want to give up with the rollers was the chocks forward. You can run the rode out the roller and leave it there on anchorage a lot of the time, but I do not like to leave it out there if the weather is going to turn bad. The rollers hanging out can provide a lot of leverage and having the lines in on the chocks prevents that.

I made brackets for the sides of...

..the rollers and put the chocks back on. I also provided different paths for the rodes to take either ...

...from the roller or ...

... from the chocks to the cleats.

We have put two anchors down on a number of occasions and with the rode bags and the rollers can do that in less than 10-15 minutes depending if it is ....

...on a Bahamian Moore like above or with both anchors off the bow about 60 degrees from each other. If you are on the Bahamian Moor for a couple days with wind/current shifts you can start wrapping the rodes and all of the above gives you a lot of flexibility in dealing with that. I found the easiest way to unwrap is to keep the dinghy tied to the side of the boat and start its outboard and use the dinghy to turn the boat in a circle.

The center cleat is now....

...used also for two safety lines that attach to the chains on the rodes to make sure the anchors don't go overboard while underway.

The rode bags let me stuff the rode away very fast with Ruth slowly motoring to the anchors. We also leave them open for a while if conditions are good and let the rodes air/dry out,

Sum

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Our Endeavour 37

Our MacGregor 26-S Pages

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[Cruiser1]

I did not pack anything under the roller where the step is. The last bolt is as close to the edge as i could get it (under the chain in the picture). On the underside I have a 1/4" aluminum plate for backing. You can see how I opened up that area to gain access as i had to fix the bow eye also.

Thanks Thecuscus, I have noticed your innovative chain locker arrangement before and hopefully I will get my head around something like that in the future, on my 26S. The 1/4" backing plate sounds like it should make things pretty solid.

 

[Doc_holiday]

Why not put an anchor roller on? You might have to cut an "access" hole in your front liner to get at the fasteners for it, but shouldn't be a problem.

Just don't release that anchor into the windshield of the Admirals car parked underneath.

 

[Cruiser1]

................... Our Mac came with...... the center cleat and also a cleat on the port and starboard side just ahead of it. There were also two bow chocks ahead of the forward stanchions (one is blocked from view by the anchor tube above).

If you anchor much and use two anchors at the same time the above I feel is a very good starting point and I'm glad the boat came with it as we didn't have a clue how to anchor at first and this at least helped from that stand point.
...............

Thanks for all that information Sumner. Yes I have had a look at your bow rollers many times and can see that I need to eventually head that way - yes, age dictates as much as anything .

You have now put my mind at rest re the direction I am heading. Looks like I need to get those chocks up ahead of the front staunchions for a starter. The original location of your chocks was about the location I was looking for - about 8" ahead of the front staunchion. I will have another look this morning and see how I can get at the space in there. Will also have to check that the anchor rode is not going to chaff the furler line for the CDI.

I also like the idea of the 2 extra cleats either side of the standard central one. When mooring to docks I find there is often not enough room on that one central cleat.

Regardless of what anchor roller arrangement I eventually settle on, the chocks and extra cleats will always be needed. You are right about the strain on the front of anchor rollers - the balance between having them a long way out, so the anchor clears the hull, and having them closer in to the bow to avoid. too much strain. The chocks solve a lot of the problems there.

Have been doing a few fibreglass repairs to some chips and cracks on the deck this week, so now feel a lot more confortable drilling holes knowing that I can always fill them in again if I make a mistake!

 

[Cruiser1]

Just don't release that anchor into the windshield of the Admirals car parked underneath.

Minus 10 points I think Doc :naughty:.

 

[THECUSCUS]

Hey Doc, how'd you know that was the Admiral's car? lol

 

[Cruiser1]

.............. Our Mac came with ..

.... with the center cleat and also a cleat on the port and starboard side just ahead of it. There were also two bow chocks ahead of the forward stanchions (one is blocked from view by the anchor tube above).

Hi Sumner, I had another look up behind the V-berth today and the only way I can see me getting at the gunwale ahead of the front staunchions is to cut a hole in the hull lining at the bow end of the V-berth (see attached photo).

How did you get acess to that area to unbolt the anchor rode chocks? Do you have one or two ports or just a large 300x200mm opening covered with a timber plate?

 

[Sumner]

Hi Sumner, I had another look up behind the V-berth today and the only way I can see me getting at the gunwale ahead of the front staunchions is to cut a hole in the hull lining at the bow end of the V-berth (see attached photo).

How did you get acess to that area to unbolt the anchor rode chocks? Do you have one or two ports or just a large 300x200mm opening covered with a timber plate?

I cut a.....

... 'squarish' shapped hole to get in there and...



...covered it with the piece of plywood, see above.

Some have put in one of the round access plates but they just give me a large enough hole for me to get up in there to do all that I had to do.

There are pictures up in there here...

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/rigging-17.html

The area might be stuffed with foam like ours is. If you put an anchor locker there you will have to decide if you want to remove it. I like the looks of the anchor locker vs. the rode bags on the deck, but they work so well that we won't give them up. I've never once had a problem with the rode coming out of them and you just stuff the rode into them as you go to the anchor. They are very functional. I've done something similar on the Endeavour, but don't know for sure what we will end up with there. She has two below deck anchor rode storage lockers,

Sum

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Our Endeavour 37

Our MacGregor 26-S Pages

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Mac-Venture Links

 

[Cruiser1]

I cut a.....

... 'squarish' shapped hole to get in there and...



...covered it with the piece of plywood, see above...................

Thanks Sumner, I am glad you have shown me that arrangement as I was thinking it was by far the best arrangement, in that is gives (easy?) access to the chocks, the bow eye and the bolt for the forestay chainplate strap - all of which I need to take off and check at some stage.

I was actually going to cut a bit lower & higher than that but I guess you have found that sufficient have you?

Will give the rode locker a bit more thought for a while as it is not on the urgent list as yet - just need to get the boat back on the water safely and start using it!!

 

[vizwhiz]

I also did what Sumner did (because I saw his post before too!), but found that it is very difficult to get two hands into that space to work, as it is so narrow up there. It is hard to put two hands together, over your head, and into the same hole, if you have to reach far up into that space (like you will have to do to reach the chocks you're going to put on). So you might want to give some thought to how you would do the jobs one-handed before you get started.
I posted a pic that shows the chocks on my foredeck as after that first stanchion post...but that may be simply because that's where the PO was able to mount them, and not because that's the best place.

 

[Sumner]

..I was actually going to cut a bit lower & higher than that but I guess you have found that sufficient have you?

It has worked, but as Michael said it is a pain at times trying to get fasteners on up in there,

Sum

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Our Endeavour 37

Our MacGregor 26-S Pages

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Mac-Venture Links

 

[Cruiser1]

Thanks Vizwhiz & Sumner, sounds like I might take the cut up a bit higher in order to give shortest possible reach, I am using the butyl tape under the fittings and the bolt heads, so will need to tighten from the inside so the bolts don't move. Looks like a ratchet swivel extension and socket will be the way to go to tighen the nuts from underneath.

Think I will go down and buy a Multi-tool a do the cut. Used a 2mm 100mm angle grinder disk to cut out for the flush-mount stove and whilst it gave a good, easy, clean cut the dust was a big job to clean up. I gather the Multi-tools do not throw up as much dust.

 

[Kestle]

Make sure you anchor/reinforce those cleats to something besides just the deck....they can and will separate the deck from hull.

I am helping a friend re-attach his, due to overloading.

Jeff

 

[Cruiser1]

Make sure you anchor/reinforce those cleats to something besides just the deck....they can and will separate the deck from hull.

I am helping a friend re-attach his, due to overloading.

Jeff

Good point Jeff, thanks for the tip.

 

[finding41]

"I gather the Multi-tools do not throw up as much dust."
You would be wrong. Keep the vacuum handy.
I made the mistake of using mine after I had cleaned the interior. Oops! That dust gets everywhere!
I have a few access ports to put in and I'm waiting until I haul out for the winter. Even then I'm going to mask off the inside so I can vacuum the bulk of it once I'm done cutting.
Here is an idea I'm going to try I'm going to tape a bigger cardboard box inside at the spot ware I'm cutting. I will cut the hole and vacuum the box out from outside. I hope to get most of the dust.