Las Vegas, Rhode Island

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Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
Special on the casino restaurant menu: Crow Those of you who have followed my mechanical adventures know that it’s a favorite of mine. This could well be a head gasket problem. But, first the update.

More than a couple emails and PM’s came in strongly recommending Pirate’s Cove Marina. This impression was confirmed when I called them. They were right there with the affirmative that they could handle all of the various options I’m faced with and made it clear that they were eager for my business and could send a boat right out for me.

I owed Quality Yacht Services a call. The person I spoke to seemed much more interested in the fact that I had picked up their mooring without prior permission (they are closed on weekends) than their doing anything. It turns out they don’t have a resident mechanic and Pirates Cove said they could have one on the boat minutes after my arrival.

They were as good as their word. I’d hardly had a chance to get the lines squared away when a very pleasant and competent sounding young fellow was aboard. He listened carefully to my usually lengthy description of the prior symptoms and the incident and told me some things about the fluid passages in the head that weren’t clear to me from the manual. These made the head gasket the first thing to look at.

Not long after, he was stripping down the engine. I’ve watched a lot of mechanics work. It’s a pleasure watching one who clearly knows and enjoys what he is doing. The head was off before lunch and it was time to head for the betting tables.

The head gasket looks to be in very good shape. There is just one place where a slightly shiny area of gasket between a water and low pressure oil passage could indicate a leak but it’s about as weak an indication as he has seen and not the least bit conclusive.

The visual inspection of the head and block cooling passages showed the engine to be in better shape than either of us believed possible for a 30 year old engine. There is no rust or indications of wastage anywhere that can be seen. That makes the pinhole leak / breakthrough theory very weak unless there is some localized problem that we can’t see. It looks like an engine only a few years old.

The third possibility, which I hadn’t considered, is a failure of one of the cylinder liner seals. There is no way to determine that without removing the engine and taking it nearly completely apart. You might as well do a complete rebuild while you are at it. The same principle applies to finding a possible corrosion breach deep down in the block.

This is one of those things where the diagnosis is expensive. I’m going to spend something over $1000 to have a new head gasket put in and we’ll then run the engine for a while and see what happens. If the oil stays good, I’ll be back in business with an engine I’ll have a lot more faith in after seeing how good its arteries look.

If water mixes with the oil again, the engine will have to be disassembled and removed from the boat, I’ll be out the one to two grand, and facing even bigger bills if I decide I can keep the boat. It seems a better bet at this point than trying to save this money and going right to a re-power.

After seeing how good the engine looks inside, I’ll be leaning towards a rebuild if it turns out not to be the head gasket. I’m in a motel now waiting to hear back on parts cost and availability. Pieces of the engine are scattered all over the berths with the cushions pushed up into the V berth.

We’ll see what tomorrow brings.

The oil / water emulsion coating the valve train:



It even completely coated the inside of the valve cover:



The stuff of cruising nightmares:

 
Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
Further good news from the initial inspection is that there is no sign of damage from running on the oil water mix. The camshaft looks great. The mechanic said much of the engine looks like it was only a few years old.

The cylinders and exhaust runs are a testament to the value of running a diesel at high power levels consistently as I do. Everything is incredibly clean.
 
Sep 17, 2012
8
Pacific Seacraft 34 Oriental
What is the condition of the anti-syphon valve in the exhaust? I am told that sea water can enter the engine if the valve is not working correctly when the engine is shut down. A boat in our marina had a similar issue this summer. It took many hours and mutiple oil changes to discover that water in the oil was coming in from the exhaust line. Have you been in any following seas in the last few sails? Do you have a high rise exhaust system? Have any changes to the exhaust been made recently?
 
Mar 21, 2004
2,175
Hunter 356 Cobb Island, MD
Roger,

I think at a time like this you should hug and kiss your engine. Maybe it will do the same for you and behave....

Good Luck my friend..
 
Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
I am told that sea water can enter the engine if the valve is not working correctly when the engine is shut down.
Definitively not an issue in this case. The head is off and we could look in and see the cylinder walls and piston heads. There hasn't been any water in there. The cylinders on this engine look like it was about five years old.
 
Nov 6, 2006
10,093
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Good news on the parts, Roger.. It is amazing how well that mayonnaise goop lubricates in the short term.. I have helped clean up two engines that had gotten water inside , and generated gray mayonnaise; a Westerbeke, and a Yanmar.. both were water pump leaks and both did not damage any internals.. The Westerbeke happened about 100 miles offshore .. we were able to get a lot of the gook out .. had to drop the oil pan to clean it, since it would not drain.. Then ran it with fresh oil for a few hours then changed it again and everything was fine.. We had a rebuilt water pump on board so that was a quick part of the job. When we rebuilt the engine a several years and many hours later, the bearings were all still within tolerance.. The Yanmar was in a slip.. we flushed it with kerosene and didn't have to drop the oil pan.. The thing is to stop, like you did, and correct the problem before stuff starts to degrade from the salt.. things like the injector pump cam rollers and the balls in the bearings of the governor ..
Sounds like you are well on the way to recovery. I wish you the best, Roger.
 

BobT

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Sep 29, 2008
239
Gulfstar 37 North East River, Chesapeake Bay
Relief in sight again, Roger. Have you considered a career as a suspense novelist?
 

BobT

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Sep 29, 2008
239
Gulfstar 37 North East River, Chesapeake Bay
Now I may be uninformed on the fine points of crankcase breather traps. Never having owned an engine with one. But you mentioned water in the trap. Could it be source #4?
You also mentioned an unusual pressure differential popping the dipstick.
The trap has also been a factor in previous episodes I believe?
I don't trust it.
Atmospheric pressure changes move water up and down small tubes very effectively.
It doesn't take much water to froth the oil in our relatively small engines. Emulsify some oil and heat it to steam the water out?
Just supposing here.
 
Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
The trap has also been a factor in previous episodes I believe?
I don't trust it.
The trap was a factor previously but when I was using it out of the box as an air/oil separator. This is something that has worked well on many engines but caused problems on my particular model which is very sensitive to crankcase pressure with its external dipstick and breather connection very low on the case where oil can splash up onto the opening when pitching or rolling heavily.

I removed the filter element from the unit which turns it into a trap. That is just now a clear bowl which I can drain. The crankcase line comes in at the top and out at the top so there is virtually no restriction at all. Fumes just go right on through but any liquid falls to the bottom and collects. It's a standard set up in steam line and all sorts of other places where pipes can have liquid moved along with them that needs to be removed. It also lets me keep an eye on whatever may be coming out of the breather line other than fumes.

Even after this event, the bowl was only about 1/3 full of water with a little dollop of the emulsion.

As soon as the leaking water raised the oil level high enough to reach the crank, the whole crankcase filled up with the emulsion. Even in engines with standard breather lines, the emulsion plugs up the vent at this point and the water pressure just blows everything out the dipstick. We scooped it all out of the bilges this morning and it was like cleaning out grey yogurt. Nasty, nasty business.

BTW every engine on the planet condenses some water into the space above the oil in the crankcase on start up due to combustion gasses going past the rings which haven't fully seated and become lubricated yet. These condense into water. One of the major purposed of the vent is to let this water out. When the engine heats up, the water boils into steam and the oil dries out. (Think about what is going on in a typical sailboat engine that runs just a few minutes each time in and out of a dock or on and off a mooring without ever getting hot enough to dry out the oil.)

Your engine has a lot of water going through the breather line which you see as a bit more white smoke in the first few minutes of operation. You just don't know it because you don't have a liquid trap. I also trap a lot of that water and drain it out into a paper towel from time to time so it doesn't go back into my engine at all. I see less smoke on start up than I used to.

See post upcoming shortly for the latest.
 
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