The Sherwood water pump (old style I understand) in My 85 Oday 28 (M12 Universal engine) has started dripping water at the pump to engine casing flange. Both screws were a bit loose, but tightening brought very little change, so I guess I need a new flange gasket. Anyone got experience with this...any tips, tricks or traps???
Dripping Sherwood
- Thread starter odaydokay
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Thanks much! Would not one start with just doing the gasket and see if this solves....a lot quicker and easier. I am still seeing good water delivery, opertaing temp is maybe up 20-25 degrees, but not into the danger area.
There are 2 seals on the water pump. One for the water side and one for the oil side. They have weep holes so you know when they are failing. There is a possibility of getting water in your oil. Rebuilding is an option or have it rebuilt by http://www.depcopump.com/brands.htm
They're a great source for rebuilding or replacements.
They're a great source for rebuilding or replacements.
The dripping is at the bottom of the flange itself, not at the pump. The dripping is pure water,slightly warm. Does all this say anything about pump vs. just a flange gasket?
Yupper, that's what I'm thinking. Can always elevate to a pump reman job if that does not work.
Thanks again for checking in.
As the the NFL ref says: "After further review....." I did some more studying and Bob is almost certainly right. More than likely that water is coming from the weep hole in the pump and a seal is shot. Also for a 27 year old pump, to throw a gasket on and think the pump is going to be fine for years is fantasy. After a couple more sails, I am pulling the pump and sending to Depco for review and either rebuild, if cost feasable, or outright replacement.
Well I pulled the pump. The water was indeed from the water weep hole. More concerning was that there was oil in the water that came out of the discharge port. No big deal as the whole pump will get rebuilt, but did that oil in the discharge water do any damage down stream is the question on my mind. Anyone got a view on this? Also wonder if this is the source of the oile I have been seeing in the engine drip pan lately.
If you look up your pump on the internet, you will see how the guts work. Try www.marinedieseldirect.com or www.depcopump.com There are two seals on (in?) all of these pumps. One keeps the water out of the engine, the other keeps the oil out of the water. If you've caught it soon enough, and it seems you have, unless you have water in your oil in your engine you should be OK. That's the purpose of the weep holes: to tell you that you have to rebuild or replace the pump.
Does not seem to be any water in engine oil whatsoever. Are you saying that the discahrge water just went to the heat exchanger and then just continued on out the exhaust, some maybe sitting in the Vetus water muffler? If so, I wonder how I got oil in the the under engine drip pan....loose fitting with oily water seeping out easier than plain water?
That's good news!
Consider this: oil could have been weeping out past the inner (oil) seal. Right? Think about it. Have you familiarized yourself with the guts of the pump, or do you know about it already?
Here's what an Oberdorfer looks like (check out the seals): Oberdorfer Pump Rebuild 101 - http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6766.0.html
Consider this: oil could have been weeping out past the inner (oil) seal. Right? Think about it. Have you familiarized yourself with the guts of the pump, or do you know about it already?
Here's what an Oberdorfer looks like (check out the seals): Oberdorfer Pump Rebuild 101 - http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6766.0.html
Yes, there are two seals in this Sherwood. (one water and one oil) and two weep holes. The water weep hole was putting out a lot of water, but the oil one was not. When I pulled off the hose from the discharge side (goes on to heat exchanger) that is where I saw the oily water. Just wonder if that oil seal failed why none came out of the weep hole. On the other hand maybe I am just trying to overanalyse and shoud trust that the rebuilder will do his job just fine.
Just pulled the impeller cover and the impeller is missing 4 tips (no entire vanes thankfully). I would guess these tips are in the heat exchanger or in the hose leading to same (which I will purge of course). Any consequences to having 4 tiny rubber pieces in the exchanger if they in fact stuck there?
Yes, depending on where they are and how big they are, they could (could, maybe, can, will - take your pick) reduce your heat exchange with resultant increase in operating temperature.
I remove our HX at least every two years (even with NO busted vanes), remove the end caps and check it out (inside!
). What I have found over the years is that the inlet port gets clogged up with salt. Why? 'Cuz that's where the cold meets the hot and drops out.I rarely find issues with the tubes, but rather the inlet port gets fouled with the dropping out of the salt from the seawater. If you're in fresh water: not an issue.
Thanks for another helpful comment! I may be doing something not smart. When the boat gets taken out, I winterize from where the water enters the boat and there is about a 6 foot travel for the fluid before it hits the pump. I do the same thing in the spring, firing up with fresh water again from 6 feet away from the pump. I think smarter will be to put those fluids in right at the pump itself to eliminate the run dry potential. (I am not seeing any salt build up at all happily.)Yes, depending on where they are and how big they are, they could (could, maybe, can, will - take your pick) reduce your heat exchange with resultant increase in operating temperature.
I remove our HX at least every two years (even with NO busted vanes), remove the end caps and check it out (inside!
I rarely find issues with the tubes, but rather the inlet port gets fouled with the dropping out of the salt from the seawater. If you're in fresh water: not an issue.
You make a good point about doing an inspection like that. Do you find you have to scrape off and replace the paper cover gasket each time you pull it or do you just lube it up with something?
1. Not sure I understand the 6 feet thing. All the hoses have to be either emptied or filled with antifreeze, no? Just no "fresh" (i.e., untreated) or emplty sections of hose should be the goal, right?
2. I don't winterize, here in San Francisco. But for those who do so, the recommendations always appear to remove the pump faceplate and remove the shaft. On our M25 Oberdorfer pump (as shown in the linked pictures in my earlier post) there is a male fitting on the pump's impeller shaft, so it's a no-brainer to remove the shaft with the impeller from the pump. This avoids having the rubber vanes get a "set" from sitting over the winter. Once the faceplate is removed, a new gasket should be installed in the springtime.
2. I don't winterize, here in San Francisco. But for those who do so, the recommendations always appear to remove the pump faceplate and remove the shaft. On our M25 Oberdorfer pump (as shown in the linked pictures in my earlier post) there is a male fitting on the pump's impeller shaft, so it's a no-brainer to remove the shaft with the impeller from the pump. This avoids having the rubber vanes get a "set" from sitting over the winter. Once the faceplate is removed, a new gasket should be installed in the springtime.
Thanks, Stu. I will have a talk with the pump rebuilder and get the full skinny. Jealous of you not having to winterize! Take care and much appreciate!
Well I had Depco do the rebuild. They were great, communicated well, fair pricing. Installed, paying attention to only hand tighten flange nuts until a couple engine turns. Pump looks and acts new.....BUT if any of you do this, DO NOT reuse the high pressure feed from the pump back to the heat exchanger. I did and all was fine for the first couple of hours and then the old hose, probably getting more pressure with the reman pump, started spraying water in all directions, coating the engine, tranny, fuel pump, battery cases and all else it could find with salt water while under way. It was rotting (1985 hose,what would I expect?) right under the clamp at the HE end. There was some temp rise, but within limits, so I covered with a rag to keep the spray down until I got to the dock to do a good wash down. Fix was easy of course. Auto parts store heater hose setting me back $2.97 with tax. Do I feel like an idot? Yes, but maybe this post will help someone to avoid my dumb error.
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