Need feedback on replacing seacock

[Igetit]

This is a 2002 Hunter 270 (mostly identical to a 260) that I acquired two weeks ago. The boat had been winterized and on the hard for 10 months prior to our recent launch. In the process of flushing the antifreeze from the water system, I noticed what I first thought was a loose fitting on a seacock below the galley sink, starboard side. It's about six inches below the water line. On further examination (see pic attached) there is clearly a crack in the fitting just north of the stainless screw.
With the valve closed, no water is seeping in but with it open, a pretty severe leak. Here are my questions, and feel free to add whatever I am failing to consider in the solution:
1) What’s the best source for the part?
2) Given Mainsail’s wisdom and other assertions that Hunter executed a poor design here, is there an opportunity to improve this while fixing it?
3) Is there a safe and feasible way to do this in the water? (Plug the port from outside, heel the boat portside with weights and dock lines?)
Use of the galley sink is not a requirement, but since the boat has fresh bottom paint I was planning to leave her in the water (bubbling slip) this Winter, in hope of sailing as much as possible.
Appreciate any feedback on the way out of this one. I don’t want to leave it like this very long.

 

[Claude L.-Auger]

If you have a safe way to plug it from outside it can be done fairly easily. Picture seems to show you have room to use tools (pipe wrenches) to remove the ballcock valve. You must be careful not to loosen the through-hull as it will break the caulking seal. You should be able to see the size needed stamped on the old one. If not, measure the diameter of the threaded part of the through-hull and get the same size.
you should find that at any good marine supply house.

 

[onecoolair]

This is a 2002 Hunter 270 (mostly identical to a 260) that I acquired two weeks ago. The boat had been winterized and on the hard for 10 months prior to our recent launch. In the process of flushing the antifreeze from the water system, I noticed what I first thought was a loose fitting on a seacock below the galley sink, starboard side. It's about six inches below the water line. On further examination (see pic attached) there is clearly a crack in the fitting just north of the stainless screw.
With the valve closed, no water is seeping in but with it open, a pretty severe leak. Here are my questions, and feel free to add whatever I am failing to consider in the solution:
1) What’s the best source for the part?
2) Given Mainsail’s wisdom and other assertions that Hunter executed a poor design here, is there an opportunity to improve this while fixing it?
3) Is there a safe and feasible way to do this in the water? (Plug the port from outside, heel the boat portside with weights and dock lines?)
Use of the galley sink is not a requirement, but since the boat has fresh bottom paint I was planning to leave her in the water (bubbling slip) this Winter, in hope of sailing as much as possible.
Appreciate any feedback on the way out of this one. I don’t want to leave it like this very long.

Check with hunter there was a recall on this model blue handle seacock.

 

[Steve Dion]

Assuming you have a trailer (or can borrow one) pull the boat. It will lessen the anxiety.

 

[Igetit]

Assuming you have a trailer (or can borrow one)

Negative. Boat didn't come with a trailer and I have no ongoing need for one. I have several dock neighbors with 260 trailers, but the bunks won't accommodate my keel. I'll find out what my marina would charge to sling me for about an hour.

 

[Maine Sail]

You must be careful not to loosen the through-hull as it will break the caulking seal.

The importance of this statement can not be made strong enough. Break that seal and you will require a haul out. This can be done in the water but you must be very careful. Use a Groco or Apollo/Conbraco Marine UL valve and you're good for the season. I see this a lot with improper winterization.

While the Hunter install does not technically meet ABYC standards as long as you are careful you will be fine. Try it in the water and at the worst case you need to haul out. If it leaks a toilet bowl wax ring will stop it temporarily.

 

[Igetit]

The importance of this statement can not be made strong enough. Break that seal and you will require a haul out.

Understood, and I neglected to thank Claude for pointing that out. Thanks Claude!

And thanks to all for your insight, very much appreciated.

 

[Igetit]

I'll find out what my marina would charge to sling me for about an hour.

"Four hundred out, four hundred in, and you'll need to schedule that with me at least three days in advance."

Guess I should call him back and ask how much to have the lift on "stand-by" in case Plan A fails. I could probably get the dealer to setup his trailer for my keel, tow it the hour and 15 minutes to the lake, pull me out, assist in the repair, and launch me again for less than that. This could be one expensive damned ball valve. :cussing:

 

[kjretlaw]

I contacted Hunter warrantee when I purchased my H326 two months ago for the ballcock recall. I filled out the forms and I had the all the replacement valves in a week. The recall states they'll pay for the haul out and repair costs, I've sent in my costs and I'm awaiting a check. Mind you I'm not holding my breath since the bankruptcy, but they haven't rejected the request for reimbursement yet. Hunter really does care about their customers IMHO.

 

[Claude L.-Auger]

"Four hundred out, four hundred in, and you'll need to schedule that with me at least three days in advance."

Glad to be of some help but it seems to me like your marina operator is quoting you a price not to do the job !!! Counting hauling and launching, you're looking at no more than 1 & 1/2 hour of work. The boat does not even have to leave the travel lift !

You bought the boat from a dealer 2 weeks ago. There must be some sort of warranty. If the boat sat at his place for 10 months, it was probably winterized by his people, and therefore it should be his responsibility. Get him involved.

If you must do the job in the water yourself, first leave the valve in the closed position. Then get a rubber expansion plug of the proper size inserted in the through-hull from under the boat, screw in the wing-nut as tight as you can to expand it and close the opening entirely. Then get in the boat, remove the drain hose and crack open the valve slowly to see if any water is coming in. If not you're good to go. If yes, depending if it's only a trickle or a gusher you may continue or close the valve back. You need to have your new valve ready to be installed immediately. As Maine Sail said you need to be very careful.

You could also ask your marina operator to quote you a price just get the hull of the boat out of the water a few inches and leave it suspended while you do the job, then drop it back in once the job is complete. That should take less than an hour.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[Igetit]

it seems to me like your marina operator is quoting you a price not to do the job !!!

I concur.

The dealer is a good guy so I am confident he can help me to some degree, but in his defense the bill of sale said "Sold as is - no warranty included". I conducted my own pre-buy survey after studying Don Casey's illustrated book on the very subject, but as the boat was on the hard at the time, this would have been difficult to spot. I'll see if the winterization was done by the PO or the dealer.

I also appreciate the guys who mentioned Hunter's warranty and the recall, although as this is an 02, I'm the second owner, and they're going through acquisition and solvency issues, I should probably keep my expectations low there, right?

I could see this going very well without the boat leaving it's slip, but its the other scenario that has me hesitating - the fear of inadequately accommodating Murphy's Law, panicking next to my boat trying to get a plan, while vomiting into my own slip...

Pretty sure with the help of your guidance as to the process steps, appropriate planning and sufficient cash I can avoid that vision. Thanks again Claude (and everyone else who replied), and I will be sure to post the outcome when able.

 

[Igetit]

In case it saves anyone time, as of 8/15/12 Customer Service at Hunter Marine advises "I'm sorry but the ball valve campaign has been discontinued."

 

[Igetit]

Update: (After a storm rearranged our marina, blocking access to my boat and knocking out the power for several days...)
Confirmed it is a 1" ball valve
Confirmed my marina's parts store does not have that size
Confirmed my local WM does not have that size
Have decided to swap it with an identical one from the head sink discharge line while I await shipping on the replacement part

Question: If the thruhull caulk seal ends up breaking when removing the old ball valve, what is the process for repairing that? I understand the boat has to be hauled, but
What kind of caulk is used here?
How long does it take to setup?
Anything else I would need to know to DIY the job of recaulking the thruhull?

 

[py26129]

<SNIP>
Question: If the thruhull caulk seal ends up breaking when removing the old ball valve, what is the process for repairing that? I understand the boat has to be hauled, but
What kind of caulk is used here?
How long does it take to setup?
Anything else I would need to know to DIY the job of recaulking the thruhull?[/quote]

I rebedded one of my thru hulls this spring. I used 4200 to rebed it but I'm sure there is plenty of other goo that will will work well. It's really a pretty straight forward process. Setup time for the caulk will depend on what you use, check the package.

Check out Mainesail's how to at: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/installing_a_thruhull

Cheers

Matt