Bilge Pump: Manual works Auto doesn't

[saltysailor]

I have a rule 800 pump in my bilge with a separate float switch. I then have in my cabin a switch that I can set to auto or manual. When I hold the switch to manual, the pump works fine. When I set it to Auto, (while the float is submersed) the pump make noise and I think it bubbles a bit but it's not sending any water out the bilge. To be honest, I'm not sure if it ever worked since I've owned the boat. I almost feel like the auto switch is sending the pump into reverse although maybe not because that would make my bilge look like a jacuzzi right? Anyway, I'm just wondering what some thoughts are about this.
Thanks

 

[onecoolair]

I have a rule 800 pump in my bilge with a separate float switch. I then have in my cabin a switch that I can set to auto or manual. When I hold the switch to manual, the pump works fine. When I set it to Auto, (while the float is submersed) the pump make noise and I think it bubbles a bit but it's not sending any water out the bilge. To be honest, I'm not sure if it ever worked since I've owned the boat. I almost feel like the auto switch is sending the pump into reverse although maybe not because that would make my bilge look like a jacuzzi right? Anyway, I'm just wondering what some thoughts are about this.
Thanks

Bad or damaged wire that finially failed. Happened last month. Very confusing because no breakers were kicking. Because there were no shorts. Traced 12volt wire from float switch an upon a very close inspection found a hidden damaged spot in wire. Heres what it was doing. I could put a meter to it and see 12 volts but when float switch activated the motor would need the amps to run and bad spot in wire would only allow just enough juice to run motor but at a very slow speed. Glad I caught it because it could have burned out pump just by it not having enough amps/voltage to run at its proper speed.. Actually just as I figured it out wire parted inside the insulation. Bad spot got hot enough to burn out just like how a fuse would work.

 

[gpd955]

Also check the hoses or any clogs as well as how it is plumbed. Had a similar issue in my C30 years ago. Pump would run and nothing came out of the thru hull. I found that there were 2 issues---- the pump was too small an had too little power to push water to the thru hull and also the auto pump was plumbed into the manual pump's larger diameter hose and the water just came back into the bilge through that hose. Changing the plumbing configuration and replacing the pump with something bigger (don't know if that was a big issue once I fixed the plumbing...just wanted a bigger pump) solved the problem.

Also, if the wires on the pump are connected in reverse the pump may run backwards.

You can easily evaluate the pump by taking the bilge pump hose off and putting a small length of hose on to see if water comes out while the pump is running. Since it may be hard to tell if the water is coming out while the whole pump Is under water, the short length of hose allows you to bring the end of it above the water level in the bilge.

I'd pos pics but I no longer own that boat.

 

[FourPoints]

Bad or damaged wire that finially failed. Happened last month. Very confusing because no breakers were kicking. Because there were no shorts. Traced 12volt wire from float switch an upon a very close inspection found a hidden damaged spot in wire. Heres what it was doing. I could put a meter to it and see 12 volts but when float switch activated the motor would need the amps to run and bad spot in wire would only allow just enough juice to run motor but at a very slow speed. Glad I caught it because it could have burned out pump just by it not having enough amps/voltage to run at its proper speed.. Actually just as I figured it out wire parted inside the insulation. Bad spot got hot enough to burn out just like how a fuse would work.

exactly what I was thinking. damanged wire to the float switch or from the float switch to the pump creating a low current situation as soon as you try to pull a load. works fine on manual as that uses a different wire to carry the current to the pump.

 

[seadaddler]

Replace

If the float switch is doing what you say than replace it and not worry any more,just replaced mine and doing same as yours and I did free it up and did work but some times would stick and not auto so I replaced it and no more worry and I sleep good.
Cheap on the enternet but went to WM and all don and boat is now safe.
Nick

 

[saltysailor]

Thanks guys. I don't think I'll have a chance to check it out tonight but a bad or corroded wire thats dropping the amperage down enough so that the pump can't raise the water high enough sounds like the ticket. I'll get back to this post when I've messed around with it.

 

[John]

Why not before replacing float switch simply take off the two wires and touch them together? If pump works fine, then it's the switch, if not then something else. No?

 

[saltysailor]

That's exactly what I'm going to try first. I just gotta find the time to get down to the boat.

 

[saltysailor]

Score! Thanks guys. Corroded wiring was the problem. The 3 butt connectors were totally encapsulated in silicone to make a somewhat waterproof connection. Taking the silicone off I ripped out 3 or four of the wires so it was a bit of a guess on how to put Humpty back together again. I got it right and now the wires are just taped together until the weekend when I use something more "permanent". What's a good waterproof-ish connection I was planning on using good marine/tinned butt connectors with heat shrink tubing and a healthy dose of liquid electric tape. I'm open to other suggestions but that's what I do to my trailer connections and it works pretty good.

For extra credit...I was trying to better understand my 12v wiring. I assume that while the switch is set for "auto" there's a power wire going into the float switch, a power wire that goes out (when the float is up/closed switch) to the butt connection that includes power to the pump, and then finally a return wire back to the battery or neg bar. Is that right? It seemed logical to me although I probably got the terminology wrong.

Thanks

 

[Goldfinger]

I assume that while the switch is set for "auto" there's a power wire going into the float switch, a power wire that goes out (when the float is up/closed switch) to the butt connection that includes power to the pump, and then finally a return wire back to the battery or neg bar. Is that right? It seemed logical to me although I probably got the terminology wrong. Thanks

Sounds right to me. On Manual the power goes straight to the pump. See diagram attached. (sorry about the poor quality)