mount finally, put as low as possible to provide maximum prop lowering if and when required. Can tillt easliy to keep out of water when sailing or at dock.garelick 71090 and Tohatsu UL shaft 9.8hp with remote control.
new outboard mount
- Thread starter TENACITY CS36T
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Intrigued by your project as I too own an o'day 28 that will eventually (in the very near future) need to be repowered. Boat currently has a Tohatsu 2 stroke 8 hp. Motor is currently mounted higher than yours and half way between centerline and port side, also much higher than yours. While motoring in any kind of chop it will cavitate badly. A few questions if you don't mind: why on the center line of the boat - no concerns regarding impact on rudder control? Also, how much did you reinforce the transom...the whole transom or just the area to support the motor mount. Did you tab the backing reinforcement to the hull and or deck? Like you I want to go a 9.9 extra long shaft 4 stroke but am concerned about the extra weight. I like the position of your prop well below the waterline.
That prop position in picture is at highest setting, drops another 9.5 inches at lowest setting, with four positions in between highest and lowest.
Backing plate is 1/4" aluminum sheet approx 28" wide x 19" high to spread load. (I had it rolled to match curve of transom) also passed manual bildge thruhull through center of the aluminum mounting bracket so I wouldn't have to relocate and create new additional hole.
Went with the centre location for the bracket for optimum depth during chop conditions. You can't get that low due to shape of transom when you mount to port or starboard side on a 28.
Oh and yes the entire backing plate is adhered to the Fiber glass transom as you don't want any movement towards the bow or side to side when in forward or reverse, rudder is well out of the way and steering is fine.
Beware if you want to use a Garelick 71091 with 14-15 inches of travel, it will travel that distance but the lowering distance only increases by an inch, as long as you know when you design it will help having that extra inch especially if you keep your mount off center.
(the two four stroke Garelick models appearing to have quite a difference in travel but is mainly just for lifts final resting height, with having remote control and motor locked in straight position with factory plate I chose the model without any tiller as I wouldn't want to be reaching down there as it would be obviously difficult to operate) something to think about before you decide.)
Backing plate is 1/4" aluminum sheet approx 28" wide x 19" high to spread load. (I had it rolled to match curve of transom) also passed manual bildge thruhull through center of the aluminum mounting bracket so I wouldn't have to relocate and create new additional hole.
Went with the centre location for the bracket for optimum depth during chop conditions. You can't get that low due to shape of transom when you mount to port or starboard side on a 28.
Oh and yes the entire backing plate is adhered to the Fiber glass transom as you don't want any movement towards the bow or side to side when in forward or reverse, rudder is well out of the way and steering is fine.
Beware if you want to use a Garelick 71091 with 14-15 inches of travel, it will travel that distance but the lowering distance only increases by an inch, as long as you know when you design it will help having that extra inch especially if you keep your mount off center.
(the two four stroke Garelick models appearing to have quite a difference in travel but is mainly just for lifts final resting height, with having remote control and motor locked in straight position with factory plate I chose the model without any tiller as I wouldn't want to be reaching down there as it would be obviously difficult to operate) something to think about before you decide.)
Don't forget that the boat has a tendency to squat when under power and when everyone is sitting aft it makes it worse. Too low and when you get waked your engine gets soaked. The best suggestion is the long shaft and read the owners manual, they provide good suggestions on height.
Great job! Looks great..
I have to chime in on the 2 stroke 4 stroke discussion. I put a Yamaha 15 hp on my 22. Yes , greatly overpowered!!!! But it has electric start and the thrust is sure handy when I'm docking.
My point is weight, the little 22 with an aluminum bracket could handle the weight of the 15 (78 lbs) as it was about the same as smaller 4 stroke. Down size the 15 to the proper size and you likely have half the weight. Engine manufactures are being pushed into 4 stroke for emission reasons (reasonable) but there are plenty of 2 strokes out there for sale. No better use for them than a sail auxiliary in my mind. It will also allow you to use the less expensive $120 Garelick brackets.
I have to chime in on the 2 stroke 4 stroke discussion. I put a Yamaha 15 hp on my 22. Yes , greatly overpowered!!!! But it has electric start and the thrust is sure handy when I'm docking.
My point is weight, the little 22 with an aluminum bracket could handle the weight of the 15 (78 lbs) as it was about the same as smaller 4 stroke. Down size the 15 to the proper size and you likely have half the weight. Engine manufactures are being pushed into 4 stroke for emission reasons (reasonable) but there are plenty of 2 strokes out there for sale. No better use for them than a sail auxiliary in my mind. It will also allow you to use the less expensive $120 Garelick brackets.
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