Hatch rail reseating

[Chris Bogle]

Any one ever removed wooden hatch rails on Oday 22? Mine are really loose likely from constant sliding of cabin hatch. Screw heads are doweled & need to be drilled. Thinking of replacing wood screws with bolts and nuts through cabin ceiling. Any suggestions of what I may be up against here. Drilling screw heads plugs seem to be biggest challenge. Would not like to damage rails as replacing would likely be a challenge.

 

[Indysailor]

The bungs ought to come out easily. I drill a 1/8" pilot hole, then use a wood screw to remove the bung. When the screw hits the existing screw head, the bung will walk up the threads.

The screws holding the rail are in solid fiberglass. I will be doing the same thing this year and the plan is to just re-seat the rails as they were originally mounted. Creating holes through the cabin top seems like risk for not much reward. My plan is to either drill new holes or fill the existing ones with epoxy and re-drill, depending on whether or not I decide to buy new rails.

 

[Chris Bogle]

Hi indysailor, thanks for your input. I removed the rails this morning but it was quite a job. Had to drill out screw plugs then dig out glue from around screw heads. Got them out with out much damage to the wood.
On a related subject, what should I seal the wood (teak) with. Teak oil or varathane or both?
I am thinking of using some fish pond rubber lining as a gaskit when reseating the rails. It's a material that lasts forever. You were right, screws go into solid fiberglass so leaking into boat is not an issue. Rubber gaskit is to keep wood dry.

 

[Indysailor]

I just rebedded my handrails with butyl tape, but am undecided about what to put under these, if anything. There's no leaking to worry about and since they are teak, water is not an issue, really. The question of teak oil, varnish or letting them be has been discussed to death on this board- to each his own is probably the best thing I can say. You'll get as many opinions as you do responses.

 

[emergpa1]

Hi indysailor, thanks for your input. I removed the rails this morning but it was quite a job. Had to drill out screw plugs then dig out glue from around screw heads. Got them out with out much damage to the wood.
On a related subject, what should I seal the wood (teak) with. Teak oil or varathane or both?
I am thinking of using some fish pond rubber lining as a gaskit when reseating the rails. It's a material that lasts forever. You were right, screws go into solid fiberglass so leaking into boat is not an issue. Rubber gaskit is to keep wood dry.

if the wood is old, grey, and grooved, then the grey weathered wood will seep up through any finish in a year of sun. i would not spend a lot of effort on old wood. i removed all teak, took it innto my shop, sanded and tried to get off all grey. but the grey goes down into the grain of teh wood if it is old, so it still works up and begins to crack the finish soon. new teak is the way to go if you want a pretty finish, as i do. my soon to do project is to again remove all the teak, and either replace it with new, and be diligent to keep the finish, or use trex. not yet decided, but am leaning toward trex.

 

[Indysailor]

I cleaned my handrails with oxalic acid, then sanded with 150 grit. No more gray. Oxalic acid is the main ingredient in "brighteners" that are used to bring color back to outdoor decks. Just don't use it on the boat since it may destroy caulk.

 

[emergpa1]

thats a great point about the oxalic acid, and thanks for bringing it up. I failed to use the acid, relying instead on sanding, and using a wire brush in the grooves. It certainly is possible that using the acid in addition to that would have yeilded a better substrate and thus a more durable finish.
In spite of the shortcomings of my finish, i really was pleased with the cetol and it seemed to hold up pretty well

 

[Shoaldrafter]

Chris

Keith may be very good in a hospital but for boats he prescribes an enema when an aspirin will do fine.

Many boats have caulk under or around screws and rails. Oxalic acid is problematic. Try something simple and cheap that you may already have.

Try ethylene glycol, which you know as automotive antifreeze. Use 3M scour pad wetted with above and scrub rails. Let dry a couple of days and repeat.

Then use one of the specialty teak oils designed with extra UV protection. I use Messmers:

http://www.messmers.com/prod_caribbean_extreme_teak_oil_wood_finish_faq.html

Again, apply with 3M pad. I use the maroon pads initially then move to white for finish coats. Green available at local supermarket will substitute of Maroon. But final coats should be softer pads, like white.

Think at least three coats with drying between. You can sail between coats.

And you can apply next coat if on lake and wind ceases.

Fair Zephyrs,
Ed K

thats a great point about the oxalic acid, and thanks for bringing it up. I failed to use the acid, relying instead on sanding, and using a wire brush in the grooves. It certainly is possible that using the acid in addition to that would have yeilded a better substrate and thus a more durable finish.
In spite of the shortcomings of my finish, i really was pleased with the cetol and it seemed to hold up pretty well

 

[Indysailor]

Many boats have caulk under or around screws and rails. Oxalic acid is problematic. Try something simple and cheap that you may already have.

Like Barkeeper's Friend? That's what I use- it's oxalic acid.
Read the post, it was mentioned that Oxalic acid should be used off the boat. For this case, where the rails are off the boat since it destroys caulk, it's a perfectly good way to bring gray teak back to brown.

 

[Chris Bogle]

Will paint stripper damage gelcoat?

 

[Shoaldrafter]

will paint stripper

Will paint stripper damage gelcoat?

Answer: Some will, most will not, read specs and directions for each product. Some are actually made for fiberglass sailboats [imagine that].

Understand the importance of sailboats:

http://www.nshof.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=314&Itemid=28


Fair Zyphers,

Ed K

 

[emergpa1]

Like Barkeeper's Friend? That's what I use- it's oxalic acid.
Read the post, it was mentioned that Oxalic acid should be used off the boat. For this case, where the rails are off the boat since it destroys caulk, it's a perfectly good way to bring gray teak back to brown.

I was also thinking in shop use, not on boat. Thanks Ed.I like ( can I use "like" in the same sentence with Ed K's name and not be mistaken for ultra conservative? ) Ed's idea. I am now thinking I may try that for a year or two without pulling that stuff off again. But I still have to remove and reseat the handrails. I used life seal last time but it didn't last. I will of course use butyl rubber purchased from MainSail this time.

Another common source of water in the bilge, I have discovered, is a heavy rain, or hose washing, gets in under the forward starboard locker hatch. it doesn't drain well and gets in over the lip.

I had my last sail this weekend. I am going to pull my girl next week and be Backyard Sailor again for a month or three, then down to the coast with her in time for fourth of July, (I hope)! I will thread my upgrades as they happen. New complete set of analog Moor instruments, a composting head, and other fun frills.