Shaft log hose 77 H30C

[Steve Dion]

Scott:

I would get that strut cleaned up and be sure that it is okay. There have been a few of these that have had problems in the last few months. You really don't want them to be hauling you again.

 

[sarnold1119]

Scott:

I would get that strut cleaned up and be sure that it is okay. There have been a few of these that have had problems in the last few months. You really don't want them to be hauling you again.

The strut is gone and will have to be replaced. Also the shaft is stuck in the coupler. The yard want's to save the shaft by cutting it off at the coupler and moving the shaft strut forward to compensate. I am not liking this idea, any opinions ?

Scott

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Not That I'm Spending Your Money .................

................. in any way here Scott, but I think for the satisfaction of seeing the job done correctly, I'd go for a new 316 SS shaft if you can't get the coupling off.

It's a shame to lose the old shaft as you say it's only eight years old. Has the yard done its utmost to remove the coupling i.e. heating the coupling, cooling the shaft with dry ice, penetrating oil, moving the engine forward to get a gear puller in there, sacrificing your mother-in-law ?

Wish you luck in getting it off the shaft and keep the updates coming. I don't know about you, but I'm starting to lose sleep over this thing.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

One Final Thought ...............................

.................... before packing it in for the night. One trick I've seen pulled on large shafts where there wasn't room to get a gear puller in is to insert a piece of rod with a little smaller diameter than the shaft. This is best shown in the attached sketch . Sort of a poor man's gear puller.

Once the prop shaft coupling is heated, all of the coupling bolts are slowly and evenly squeezed until the prop shaft coupling is pulled forward along the prop shaft. You may have to do this again with a few shims under the smaller dia. rod to finally get the coupling all the way off. Be sure the transmission end coupling is good and tight for this operation.

CAUTION: make sure you're not going to hit anything if the prop shaft is forced back.

Good luck.

 

[sarnold1119]

Going to try heat on the coupler and R134 freeze spray (-51F) on the shaft in the morning. Hopefully something gives. New shaft if not.

 

[Stephen Trapani]

We have the source of the foundry that has all the molds for these struts:

http://millersislandprop.com/site/news_detail/dahmer_marine_hardware/

Looks like the old Dahmer site is finally down, but maybe Miller Island has the page with the struts on it so you can identify yours. The estimate they gave for my strut was $385

 

[sarnold1119]

We have the source of the foundry that has all the molds for these struts:

http://millersislandprop.com/site/news_detail/dahmer_marine_hardware/

Looks like the old Dahmer site is finally down, but maybe Miller Island has the page with the struts on it so you can identify yours. The estimate they gave for my strut was $385

Thanks for the info. The shaft is now out of the boat, had to cut about an inch off of it. The shaft will indeed come out without removing the rudder if you take the strut loose (or it breaks as in this case). I believe there is still enough shaft left to be used agin. It's getting refinished at the machine shop. New strut is being fabricated from stainless. I got a shinny new prop from Boaters Resale Kemah.

 

[s sauer]

Pressing the shaft out of its flange is relatively simple with the 28.5. The shaft is bronze and the flange is steel. You won't typically need heat. Once you remove the tie-wire and locking bolts at the shaft coupling then remove the four bolts that hold the flanges together. Then pull aft and separate the shaft end coupling flange from the transmission end coupling flange and use WD40 on the end of the shaft fixed into the flange. I used a socket sized smaller than the 1" diam. shaft between the end of the shaft and the transmission side coupling and four longer bolts to pull the flanges back together while the socket pressed out the shaft. Do not be tempted to clean up the flange or shaft surfaces too much ,if at all, as you can ruin them and loose the 'press fit' when you put it back together, however you can use wet-or-dry 320 or 400 grit paper to polish the area where the new packing gland will sit. I'd also take this opportunity to replace the reinforced rubber shaft log hose---I matched the OEM to a similar diameter tripple reinforced hose at a NAPPA auto parts store. A slightly longer or slightly shorter hose will move the wear point forward or aft from the present wear point for a better seal. I also would recommend using Teflon impregnated flax packing, which becomes almost dripless in operation. Be sure to re-align the engine mounts after the shaft log , packing gland and flanges are re-installed. Do the final alignment with the boat in the water.
Look for kindred spirits at www.huntertwentyeightfive.com

 

[sarnold1119]

All better now

All better now. New strut, prop, stern tube, shaft log and bottom job. $3900 included pickup and return to slip. Now have dry bilge and runs smooth. Uploaded pictures but not sure if they made it. Now if I just get a new main sail ...... Thanks for all of the inputs !!

Scott