Shaft log hose 77 H30C

[sarnold1119]

Hello all,

The shaft log hose on my 77 H30 is about to go. I plan on changing it in the water. Anybody have any idea about how much water I could expect to come in during the (hopefully short) time I have this disconnected ? Also does anybody know the hose size ? I will be replacing the entire packing box/hose assembly and have large pumps available. Prop shaft was replaced with a stainless one about 8 years (hose didn't look bad then) ago so I hope it will come out fairly easily. Any insight greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Scott

 

[Redbeard33]

pull the speedometer plug to get an idea of the amount of water that will pour in, the real problem you will face is getting the new stuffing box around the shaft, unless you have a coupler that can be removed and allow you to back the shaft out a bit, the only other option is to pull the engine forward and pull the shaft forward (with prop removed), your going to have to rent some scuba gear, to either pull the prop or to prevent the shaft from sliding aft and sinking under the slip. for the cost of of renting scuba gear you could opt for a "short haul" some yards will even leave you in the slings overnight which should be plenty of time to switch them out

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

If I Were a Gambling Man .....................

................... I'd say your chances are better than 50% you'll sink the boat.

The amount of water flooding in would best be described as epic if not of biblical proportions. Everything is going to be stuck but good i.e. hose to stuffing box, hose to shaft log, and shaft to coupling, unless they are all freed in advance. Then there's the chance you may loose the shaft out the shaft log while trying to get the stuffing box on. As Redbeard says, pulling the engine forward may be the only way of getting enough length of shaft to work on it. But then there's that prop holding the shaft back, so that won't work either.

All in all, you're looking at a two man job on the hard unless sinking your boat is not that big a deal .

 

[sarnold1119]

................... I'd say your chances are better than 50% you'll sink the boat.

The amount of water flooding in would best be described as epic if not of biblical proportions. Everything is going to be stuck but good i.e. hose to stuffing box, hose to shaft log, and shaft to coupling, unless they are all freed in advance. Then there's the chance you may loose the shaft out the shaft log while trying to get the stuffing box on. As Redbeard says, pulling the engine forward may be the only way of getting enough length of shaft to work on it. But then there's that prop holding the shaft back, so that won't work either.

All in all, you're looking at a two man job on the hard unless sinking your boat is not that big a deal .

Thought I had it figured out until I looked at some pictures and realized that I am not sure of the zinc placement on the shaft. Looks like a quick haul. Thanks for the input. Picture of the offending part attached.

 

[gray_penguin]

WOW, I thought the stuffing box, shaft tube, shaft in my 33ft was in bad shape

I would guess you might find the shaft tube will need to be looked at closely also. The 4 bolts that attach it to the hull were completely rusted out and not really holding it to the hull anymore.

As far as the the shaft falling out of the boat an sinking to the bottom:
I had to remove the rudder to get my shaft out of the boat. There was no way to get the shaft past the rudder. Not sure if the 30ft is the same though.

I have photos and notes about my ordeal posted on my site: WindDragon

 

[sarnold1119]

WOW, I thought the stuffing box, shaft tube, shaft in my 33ft was in bad shape

I would guess you might find the shaft tube will need to be looked at closely also. The 4 bolts that attach it to the hull were completely rusted out and not really holding it to the hull anymore.

As far as the the shaft falling out of the boat an sinking to the bottom:
I had to remove the rudder to get my shaft out of the boat. There was no way to get the shaft past the rudder. Not sure if the 30ft is the same though.

I have photos and notes about my ordeal posted on my site: WindDragon

Nice photos wish mine looked like that. Yes the rudder has to be removed to get the shaft out. My rudder, skeg etc was previously removed automatically by a submerged barg in Galveston bay.

 

[Steve C.]

You could unbolt the strut, that you allow you to remove the shaft without dropping the skeg and rudder.

 

[sarnold1119]

Good idea

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Ouch .........................

..................... I can see why you're so anxious to get the old hose out of there.

Is there some chance the current hose material was substandard ? I've attached a photo of my shaft log hose after thirteen years in service and it still has quite a few years left in it. Not sure of the brand of hose to use but a quick search using the search menu here will give you the best material for the job.

It also appears that the area you have photoed has had a lot of sea water flying around it. IMHO, packing gland leakage is at least a quarter century out of date.

Take a look here to see how to have a dry packing gland.

http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=136282

More details on exactly HOW to pack the gland are also contained on this site.

Please keep us posted and let us know how it goes.

 

[sarnold1119]

..................... I can see why you're so anxious to get the old hose out of there.

Is there some chance the current hose material was substandard ? I've attached a photo of my shaft log hose after thirteen years in service and it still has quite a few years left in it. Not sure of the brand of hose to use but a quick search using the search menu here will give you the best material for the job.

It also appears that the area you have photoed has had a lot of sea water flying around it. IMHO, packing gland leakage is at least a quarter century out of date.

Take a look here to see how to have a dry packing gland.

http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=136282

More details on exactly HOW to pack the gland are also contained on this site.

Please keep us posted and let us know how it goes.

As far as I know the hose is the original from Hunter so it is about 35 years old. Obviously not keeping up with my maintenance. I first noticed the problem when I found two or three inches of water in the cabin, float switch had failed. I think a pump cycle counter may be a good addition to any boat that stays in the water. I am now contemplating changeing out the YSB12 for something a little more tolerable while fixing this problem. The old YSB still starts every time and runs great but more and smoother power would make the boat much nicer. Boat is currently on continuous life support. Hope to get it hauled this week.

 

[Steve Dion]

Scott:

I would suggest that you get your boat short hauled and this problem resolved. You should have the shaft and strut inspected.

When they pull the boat they can also power wash it and an inspection of the general bottom condition.

 

[sarnold1119]

Scott:

I would suggest that you get your boat short hauled and this problem resolved. You should have the shaft and strut inspected.

When they pull the boat they can also power wash it and an inspection of the general bottom condition.

That is the current plan.
Thanks
Scott

 

[Redbeard33]

it looks like the hose clamps were not stainless and are completely gone, adding some new clamps would certainly help as a "band-aid" fix until you get a chance to do a proper repair....

 

[Stephen Trapani]

Shaft log too

Scott:

I would suggest that you get your boat short hauled and this problem resolved. You should have the shaft and strut inspected.

When they pull the boat they can also power wash it and an inspection of the general bottom condition.

Also check the stern tube/shaft log. Mine was completely electrolysized and needed to be replaced. If you have the luxury, I'd take it off completely and rap it to make sure you get a nice ring sound. The bolts may need replacing and it's probably put on with a gasket which can be replaced and re-calked.

 

[sarnold1119]

Just checked with the yard and they want $10/foot to haul and block and $1.10/foot per day. I am going to check with the yard mechanic and see how much they will carge to fix. If they can fix in the sling I will just get it quick hauled fixed, clean bottom, replace zincs and be on my way. I will definitly check the stern tube. I know at least the front clamp is stainless because I changed that one a while back. I am actually afraid to touch the hose much. It is splitting down the side and seems very brittle. I think I will put a bunch of wraps of duct tape on it for the trip to the yard which isn't far.

 

[gray_penguin]

that haul out fee is close to what it cost me here in NC but WOW that per day charge is a killer.

 

[sarnold1119]

Well it's out of my hands now. Worked a deal with the shipyard for fixed price of $1600 that includes hauling, fixing shaft log, painting bottom, re-bedding all thruhulls, inspect all hoses and replace if needed, lube all seacocks and new zinks. And they will tow the boat to the yard for me and photo document the process. I will let everybody know how this works out. It is supposed to be picked up at 8:30 tomorrow but it may allready be at the yard (I wonder if they will bring it back also ?) My other quote at the yard was from a non english speaking person that said (I think) he could change it in the water cheap, but we allready had that discussion.

 

[sarnold1119]

Update,

Boat is out of the water.

 

[sarnold1119]

Update 2,

Prop looks as bad as the shaft log. At least the shaft seems OK.

 

[Steve Dion]

That is not too bad of a price. I think you are probably lucky that you caught this before it caught you!