O'Day 25 Restore

[btm0905]

http://s1053.photobucket.com/albums/s473/btm0905/

Here is a link to pictures of the 'Granfalloon'. I bought her last November and am in the process of a restore/refit (rescued her from a defunct sailing foundation in MD before she sold to a scrapper). In the pictures you can see is a beautiful 1976 O'Day 25 swing centerboard in need of some TLC. Hope to have her in the water soon...still lots to be done...I am 26 years old and funds are limited, but I am doing all the work myself. This forum has been very helpful to say the least, so I wanted to join and get some feedback from those who have done this before or are in the same boat (no pun intended)...

I have the bottom stripped of all previous paint. Found what I think was an old barrier coat but it was obviously too old or too thin...because I also found quite a bit of gel-coat blistering and one or two blisters going into the glass (note the boat had been abandoned for two years and unknown when the last haul was). Most had water in them and were easily popped and scraped back with a 5-in-one tool and hammer. I plan to grind the edges back with a Rotary Dremel and fair with Epoxy, coat the bottom with Pettit Protect Grey 4700/4701, and top with a hard paint (most likely a Pettit to keep everything the same brand). When the next repaint comes around I will switch to ablative to prevent buildup. Any recommendations on bottom paint for use around NC would be nice as well as feedback on whether or not it is worth the money to barrier coat a boat this old? It seems that the gelcoat is the only layer affected by water intrusion and I don't want to trap any moisture in the hull.

I will be moving the boat to a DIY yard next week for the paint and when they haul the boat, block and stand, and splash the boat for one months rent of $250 (anchors away in Hampstead NC, new boatyard special). When they do this I want to run a new 1/4" line to the centerboard to replace the broken steel spliced line that was previously broken. Does anyone know the length of this line I can't seem to find it anywhere?

Any feedback, tips, tricks, and well wishes are appreciated. I have worked with boats before but this is the first one I can call my own. I will keep this updated with progress as it comes.

 

[Joe11688]

Congrats on the purchase of the O'Day 25. You're doing a great job of restoring it. As far as O'Day parts go, Rudy at D&R Marine get you what you need including the centerboard pendant line. http://www.drmarine.com/
I'm not much of an authority on bottom paint but I've been using Super Shipbottom Ablative paint for years and I think it's the best for the buck. A few of the guys in my YC are also using this paint.
http://www.supershipbottom.com/PAINT SPECS.htm It has a high copper content, it can be applied to bare fiberglass and also over other bottom paints, and you only need one coat. I just ordered a gallon about two weeks ago and they're shipping it to me by the end of March. They will ship it to me by US Postal Mail.

Last year I had enough paint left over from the previous year to just spot paint her bottom but this spring I plan on doing the whole bottom.
They only make one color a month and you need to call them to get a price.
I think you're really going to enjoy this boat once you get her finished.
Good luck!
Joe

 

[ebsail]

I also have a 25 and the pendant length for the centerboard is 13'. Thats the length that D&R supplies. Theirs include a spliced on new shackle with a cotter pin lock for $31 plus shipping. Ernie

 

[ebsail]

Also I would suggest that you prop the boat up as high as possible when you move to the next DIY yard. Rest the keel on blocks at least 30" high, more if possible, and don't put them under the centerboard slot. Just the front and back edges of the keel. Use tall popit (jacks) to stabilize the boat. This will allow you to unscrew the four screws that hold up the centerboard wedges and drop out the centerboard for inspection, and also clean and paint the centerboard slot. Also check, and if neccessary repair the centerboard while it's out of the boat. You can't do this on a trailer. Ernie

 

[btm0905]

Thanks for the feedback ya'll,
@ Trinkka -I like the sound of this paint...factory direct discounts!
@ ebsail -Thanks for the tip on blocking, I wasn't sure how access the centerboard for refurbishing. Any experience moving the jacks for painting? When I do barrier coat I plan on doing the area the hull where the stands rest after I finish the rest and then moving the jacks, sanding the edges so everything sticks together well, and then painting the bare areas. As for the bottom of the keel that will be on the blocks, I am thinking a couple coats of West System Epoxy should do the trick for barrier coat. (the keel seemed to have the most water infiltration, along with the bow near the waterline and the keel/hull joint)

 

[Joe11688]

Thanks for the feedback ya'll,
@ Trinkka -I like the sound of this paint...factory direct discounts!
@ ebsail -Thanks for the tip on blocking, I wasn't sure how access the centerboard for refurbishing. Any experience moving the jacks for painting? When I do barrier coat I plan on doing the area the hull where the stands rest after I finish the rest and then moving the jacks, sanding the edges so everything sticks together well, and then painting the bare areas. As for the bottom of the keel that will be on the blocks, I am thinking a couple coats of West System Epoxy should do the trick for barrier coat. (the keel seemed to have the most water infiltration, along with the bow near the waterline and the keel/hull joint)

With the boat's weight sitting on keel blocks, you can move any one of the four sailboat stands not counting the stand under the bow, as long as the boat is level.
I sometimes remove the two front stands and leave the two rear stands to support the boat from side to side. If the whole length of the keel is shored up, you could also remove the stand under the bow as long as no one is allowed to walk on the boat. You can lower one of the rear stands and move it forward or aft a foot or two.
When I bottom paint my hull I generally paint the centerboard, the under side of the keel and whatever I can reach in the keel slot. Then I paint the keel.
My boat only goes about 2,200 lbs and I'm able to raise the hull with my sailboat stands. Stands aren't meant to do this but my Brownell's Boatyard SSB-3 sailboat stands can raise my boat. I've been doing it for years. I take extra precautions by shoring up under the stern and the bow close to the front of the keel with criss crossed 6"X6"X 3.5' wood blocks. This allows me to gain access to my centerboard and keel slot.

After the keel is bottom painted, I shore up under the keel after it's dried and remove the hull shoring and start painting the rest of the hull.

I place a 12"X12" square pieces of carpet on top of the stand poppets and when I need to relocate a stand to an area of the hull that is freshly painted but dry to the touch, I put a piece of wax paper between the rug on the poppet and the hull.

This SSB paint is very toxic and you need a full face respirator so you don't breath in the fumes. The paint stinks when you're applying it but after it's dry that smell goes away.

Years ago, I bought some bottom paint from Worst Marine and that stuff kept stinking even after the boat was in the water. It also required a prime coat that needed to be tacky in order for the bottom paint to adhere. I should have read the can before I bought that junk. What a horror show. I wound up wedging 2X4s and 2x6s under my gunwales to the ground and removing all four of my boat stands. I had the keel sitting on wood blocks 18" off the ground and I was able to get under the boat with a roller on the end of a long stick and get at the whole bottom of the hull,--except for the fact that I ran out of primer for that last area in the stern. I wound up bottom painting bare fiberglass in that area. Oddly enough though, the bottom paint never peeled.
In August of that year, I was sailing the bay and my boat was moving through the water very slow so I pulled into a cove, anchored, and took a dive under the hull to take a look see. There was a thick mat of soft marine growth on the bottom of my hull. I had to use a 10" wide putty knife to remove it and I took many dives back and forth until I was able to remove it all.
My boat sailed a lot faster after that and in September when I brought her home, I took her off the trailer and put her on stands and prepped the bottom for SSB ablative paint. I never had another problem like that again.

 

[Indysailor]

There are a couple things we all see on our old ODays.

Anchor Locker- if yours has one, check the drain and clean or replace as necessary.

Cockpit drains- not sure of the 25 is setup the same as the 23, but mine was a bit of a mess and needed to be rebuilt. Of the three 23s at my sailing club, this has been a problem on two.

Chainplates and Mast Step- Prime leak areas. If the bulkheads are sound, you can just re-bed the chainplates. However, if you notice the mast step leaking, you may need to remove the port bulkhead to get at it.

Speaking of bulkheads, a friend who also owns a 25 said to me when I first bought my boat, "It's not if you replace your bulkheads, but when.". He was right, I've got two freshly cut ones in my garage at the moment.

There are lots of good threads here, dealing with repairs and refits. You're in good company and welcome!

 

[cb32863]

Congrats on the boat and it will be nice to follow your progress. I have a 1977 25 myself and will be replacing my bulkheads and chain plates in the next few weeks, weather permitting. (I am in Minnesota). Looking good so far.

 

[Shoaldrafter]

Bmt 905

BMT 905

Welcome, I usually hang out on the owners site. The owners site has more activity and you will get more comments. Even issues with O'Day 27 will be similar to your boat...

I keep a boat in Little River, SC just down the coast from you. My O'Day 26 is on Lake Hartwell.

I have a wire/line for the center board for your boat. For postage it is yours. The 26 uses all line so I never used it...

There are many good books on how to fix things which have been mentioned over the years on this web site. Learn to use the archives to seach out info.

The blisters are more common in the south than in the north. I do not consider them a big issue when fixed in good fashion.

You might want a trailer with jacks instead of bunks so you can work on boat each winter or when need arises. Trailers might cost more than boat.

Ed K

http://s1053.photobucket.com/albums/s473/btm0905/

Here is a link to pictures of the 'Granfalloon'. I bought her last November and am in the process of a restore/refit (rescued her from a defunct sailing foundation in MD before she sold to a scrapper). In the pictures you can see is a beautiful 1976 O'Day 25 swing centerboard in need of some TLC. Hope to have her in the water soon...still lots to be done...I am 26 years old and funds are limited, but I am doing all the work myself. This forum has been very helpful to say the least, so I wanted to join and get some feedback from those who have done this before or are in the same boat (no pun intended)...

I have the bottom stripped of all previous paint. Found what I think was an old barrier coat but it was obviously too old or too thin...because I also found quite a bit of gel-coat blistering and one or two blisters going into the glass (note the boat had been abandoned for two years and unknown when the last haul was). Most had water in them and were easily popped and scraped back with a 5-in-one tool and hammer. I plan to grind the edges back with a Rotary Dremel and fair with Epoxy, coat the bottom with Pettit Protect Grey 4700/4701, and top with a hard paint (most likely a Pettit to keep everything the same brand). When the next repaint comes around I will switch to ablative to prevent buildup. Any recommendations on bottom paint for use around NC would be nice as well as feedback on whether or not it is worth the money to barrier coat a boat this old? It seems that the gelcoat is the only layer affected by water intrusion and I don't want to trap any moisture in the hull.

I will be moving the boat to a DIY yard next week for the paint and when they haul the boat, block and stand, and splash the boat for one months rent of $250 (anchors away in Hampstead NC, new boatyard special). When they do this I want to run a new 1/4" line to the centerboard to replace the broken steel spliced line that was previously broken. Does anyone know the length of this line I can't seem to find it anywhere?

Any feedback, tips, tricks, and well wishes are appreciated. I have worked with boats before but this is the first one I can call my own. I will keep this updated with progress as it comes.