Hunter 37C 1980 vs 1984?

[ReadyAbout]

Hi Everyone,

I am currently boat-less but looking to buy a H37C and wonder if anyone wanted to share their thoughts on the virtues of earlier vs later production boats. I know about the difference in the mainsheet traveller locations, but are there other differences as well?

Elsewhere, in the archives, I think someone mentioned that boats built after 1980 had balsa-cored hulls because the price of resin increased so they changed the production. Is this true? Otherwise my understanding is that the hulled are not cored.

I know that later boats can have incorporated improved features but I also know that builders improve their ability to cut corners in later boats as well. Are there any obvious examples of this I should watch out for?

When buying a boat it's nice to know their is such a great forum as a resource. I appreciate any advice you all have to share!

Thanks!

 

[Mathurin]

h37C never had cored hulls, it's all solid glass. The 36 was on the lower end and had core above water line if I recall correctly. That said, they do have cored deck (marine plywood) which need to be throughtly inspected.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Have you studied our comparison spreadsheet?
http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...&cat_id=38&aid=7905&page=article&mn=37-cutter .
Big advantages go to furler and engine. For me the disadvantages of later models would be the cabin-mounted traveler and deadlights instead of opening portlights.

 

[ReadyAbout]

Hi Ed,

Thank you for your reference to the comparison spreadsheet, an excellent resource.

Interesting to see what looks like some major deck mold re-tooling in 82/83, such as the addition of the deck box between dorades and moving the mainsheet traveller, which is then followed up a year later 83/84 with some substantial equipment/outfitting changes such as the switch away from the Edson pedestal and the loss of the louvered locker doors and some other wood bits like teak under the winches.

I wonder if the change in production is a reflection in change in management at Hunter at the time? Obviously they spent the money on a new deck mold because they HAD to while the rest of the changes seem like basic cost-cutting through a change in the quality of the spec.

Seems like the newer boat is the one to get however, except for the mainsheet traveller, I think I might be with you on that one. Am I missing something otherwise? Any reason the older boat would be better?

Thanks!

 

[Steve Dion]

I think the engine would be the biggest reason to go with the later model if it is a JH series. If you need to upgrade the engine, the JH is still in production and should be a drop in replacement.

The furler after 25+ years is probably considered a maintenance item.

 

[Ed Schenck]

The 83/83/85 would be my choice mainly because of the two things I mentioned, the furler and the engine. The early boats had the solid-rod furler. Mine was still working well after thirty years but it always bothered me not to have a forestay to check and to replace. This spring a forestay with a Harken furler will be installed.

In purchasing any year you need to consider shoal versus fin keel. And, of course, a survey is always recommended.

 

[Jim Legere]

Ed will not agree with me, but the traveller on the cabin top is my preference. The cockpit is completely free of mainsheet intrusion. This allows for my bimini and dodger to zip together in one unbroken expanse - great in wet weather. With the zip in side curtains, my boat effectively has a 'poor man's pilot house' when the Nova Scotia weather turns nasty. I have never had any issues with the traveller on the cabin top and it has survived a couple of nasty accidental gybes too.

 

[ReadyAbout]

Without knowing my guess is that Ed likes the traveller down low for easy access and adjustment such as being able to quickly dump it to leeward in a puff? As an ex-racing sailor and compulsive string puller I can sympathize.

I am very curious to know more about the roller furling situation as this news to me. Do I understand correctly that the older boats came equipped with some type of solid rod that is integral to the furler? As opposed to a type with a luff-track extrusion that fits around, and is separate from, the existing standing rigging?

Lastly, I figured I would save this one for a separate thread but since Ed brought it up, anybody out there who has sailed both the shoal and deep keel versions and who would care to comment?

This is something I struggle with. I understand the shoal draft opens up a world of possibilities and we are planning to go on an extended cruise, but let's face it I am a former racing sailor and I like to go fast and close to the wind. "Clawing off a lee shore" is an experience I might prefer to avoid for the sake of one foot of draft.

Thanks!

 

[Jim Legere]

I have never sailed a shoal draft version. I believe they have a bit more lead in the keel to compensate. I suspect there is not much performance difference between the two - the "deep draft" is neither deep by modern standards (at 5'1" you could cruise almost anywhere in the Bahamas!) nor is it a particularly agressive foil shape either. These boats can hold their own with good sails and gear, as Blaise Pascal (Midnight Sun) has proved in numerous races, but they are not going to go weather like a racer/cruiser with a deep, high aspect ratio keel. The deep keel version does provide a little extra protection for the rudder.

 

[Ed Schenck]

That's right, the Hyde Streamstays are a solid-rod with the foil being the forestay. Parts are still available although they are hard to work on. The Rig-Rite website has the complete parts breakdown. I have promised my old one to a member who is still looking for a mast.

Racing and fast passages never occurred to me with the H37C. I only once or twice sailed on Ed A's fin keel boat but really hard to compare. One advantage of the shoal draft, less paint. One disadvantage, too close to the ground when bottom painting. :neutral:

 

[ReadyAbout]

Thanks Ed. Make no mistake we're going cruising, not racing. Maybe I should rephrase my statement to suggest that I prefer to go as fast (relative) and as close (relative) to the wind as possible.

Since we're at it, I would like to throw out some real crazy talk now. Given my background and interests I think the H37C might be a good candidate for conversion to tiller steering.

I've always preferred the feel of a stick to a wheel and when I think of going distance cruising on a moderate displacement boat, that pedestal seems to me like a bunch of weight penalty that I would rather spend on fuel or water weight. Beyond that, the H37C cockpit isn't exactly ginormous and that pedestal takes up a fair amount of real estate.

Looks like the rudder is balanced with a portion of it's area forward of the ruder post so I imagine the helm shouldn't be too heavy for a cutter if you trim the sails properly. Any thoughts on this?

 

[med2463]

We have the shoal draft version which we prefer for SW FL. We can anchor so many places that other boaters can't go. Also, prefer as many opening ports as possible for FL. I would not lilke those fixed windows. We have the 1979 version, and the only thing I don't like about the boat is the big step from cockpit seats and bridgedeck to cockpit floor. Have compensated for that by keeping a small stool in the cockpit. It doesn't bother my husband, but I have shorter legs. In spite of that one issue, I love the boat.

 

[ReadyAbout]

I wonder if you have replaced the port lights at any point? Ventilation is a good thing.

 

[med2463]

The PO had replaced 6 of the ports w/NFM. The 4 fwd ports have not been replaced.

 

[Steve Dion]

I sail on a 1983 H37C several days every year. I cannot imagine even thinking about a tiller on this boat. I am guessing that this would probably make the boat very difficult to sell.

If you are planing on cruising I am not sure what type of autopilot you would use.

Just some food for thought.

 

[ReadyAbout]

I expect one would be getting rid of the pedestal in favor of a substantial five foot long tiller with a head that pivots upwards that would be installed just forward of the backstay, where the emergency tiller goes.

Looks like these boats have a Beckson inspection port or Teak trim installed to cover the hole. You could substitute a set of bearings and a rudder post extension which would represent a significant beefing-up of the overall rudder structure. It sounds like the rudder post has been a problem for people in the past, this would be a structural improvement.

As far as an autopilot is concerned you would have several options. Nothing would stop you from installing a quadrant mounted unit you already have with your wheel, but now you could use the linear motion tiller-autopilots which tend to cost less and have a very simple installation.

Maybe the best benefit for me personally is the ability to apply any number of sheet-to-tiller self-steering techniques. If you are not familiar with this I suggest you pick up a copy of "Self Steering For Sailing Craft" by John Letcher, I think you can find it on Amazon.

That stuff is basic seamanship that you can't readily apply to wheel steering. The wind is free and it will even steer your boat if you want it to!

I know I said I used to race boats, did I mention I am very conceded with self reliance? The Hunter is a nice boat, it's substantial but not so heavy and the rudder is balanced. Steering wheels are complicated contraptions that make no sense to me on a boat this size. Just another thing to break when I am far away.

They take up precious space and remove me from the feel of the boat. I saw on here somewhere in the mods section someone made a rudder position indicator. I thought it was a cool mod and I can understand that people like to mount their electronics on the pedestals. I just prefer a tiller on my boat, it's simple.

 

[ReadyAbout]

I have to figure out how to turn off the spell-correct thingy. I am much more concerned with self reliance than I am conceded with it.

One more thing, I can't imagine having a boat with a cockpit I can't lie down in proper. I mean really, to take a nap on a nice day at anchor, isn't that what cruising is all about?

If I got rid of the pedestal steering I could have the cockpit with six foot bench seats I've always dreamed of.

 

[Jim Legere]

Tiller vs. wheel

I think if you want to buy a big boat that has tiller steering rather than a wheel, you should look elsewhere. Maybe try a Cayenne 41. John Cherubini designed the 37 Cutter for wheel steering; don't second guess a genius.

I have the original Edson pedestal with the original chain, wire and sheaves (now 29 years old). I inspect and lube the steering every spring. I have not had one iota of trouble with this system in 10,000 miles and all weather.

I also have a Cape Horn windvane self steering unit interfaced directly to the steering quadrant (or radial drive wheel, as Edson calls it). Counting the Hunter-supplied emergency tiller, I have triple redundancy in the steering system.

BTW, most of the time folks have reported steering failure on the H37C, it has been due to hitting something and having the rudder post bend or break away. Not bearing failure. Very occaisonally pedestal system issues.

But hey, its a free world. Go ahead and convert a H37C to tiller steering if that's what rings your chimes!

 

[Ed Schenck]

Someone wrote about steering the H37C with the emergency tiller. Or was it another Cherubini? Anyway I think you will find it a real load. A short extension to the tiller might be possible if you remove the wheel. But try it.

I have no trouble getting comfy in the cockpit and I am 6' 1". I usually sail with back against the side pushpit and one leg across the aft lockers. One spoke between the toes unless the Simrad is steering. As crew I lay with my back against the house. I think I can get horizontal on the side lockers. Not sure because I can't sleep flat.

 

[ReadyAbout]

Cherubini, never met the man and wouldn't even presume to know what he was thinking. One thing I am sure of, I would be second guessing the marketing gurus at hunter, I can imagine a conversation like this:

Hunter- John this is all wrong, this boat needs a wheel!

JC- But you paid me to cram the accomdations of a forty footer into a boat that is only 37 feet long. The cockpit is too small for a wheel. There will be no proper place to lie down!

Hunter- John you knucklehead I'm paying you to design a boat I can sell. It's 1978 real American men only buy boats with 'Destroyer' steering wheels!

JC- But sir.....

Hunter- no buts John, do as you're told!

I'm a designer by trade as are most of my friends, we have all designed stupid things, not because we want too, but because that's what we were paid to do. When I remove re-core the cockpit sole which is rotten from water infiltration at the pedestal I can jut glass over the holes where the pedestal used to be. Great design!

But seriously, I'm 6'3" leaning up against the cabin top with my feet stuck in the wheel is not what I consider proper lying down. The fact that it would be so easy to change this boat to a tiller makes me think this was in the designers head back when the thing was still on paper.