Can you confirm a Nightmare?

[Viesail]

My 1985 Hunter 22 (bought is Aug - still haven't gone out in her yet) has some long stress cracks on the deck around the mast step. I've recently noticed with the mast up in the yard that the area just around the mast step is very slightly sloped in, maybe that's how it's always been shaped? I've had the mast up while working on the little projects for a couple months now. The rigging has been tuned.

So I just got to the wiring job for the masthead light and vhf cable through the deck with a CableClam. I drilled a hole through the deck near the Mast Step and noticed that the wood layer was wet when I pulled out the drill. Not good. Water must have gotten in through the old wiring hole next to the step (picture is attached) which was "filled" with putty from PO.

So what am I looking at here? How bad could the situation be? I've filled the old hole with silicon and felt around for soft spots. The layer of wood seems so thin compared to the fiberglass layers... I really can't handle a job as big as replacing the wood layer. At this rate I'll never get on the water!

 

[Vic H.]

Maybe not as bad as it looks. If you tap a hammer around, does it sound hollow or solid. With luck, you only have a little "wet wood". I had a similar situation on a C&C 27. I "sounded" all of the hollow sounding spots around the crack, drilled holes, removed wet wood with coathanger wire and/or allen wrench in hand drill. Then injected filled epoxy (or filled polyester, I don't remember) using a disposable syrenge thing (they sell them at fiberglass repair place), then topped with gelcoat dabs (Gelcote repair from boat store). Sanded to match and all done.

Have fun,
Vic H.

My 1985 Hunter 22 (bought is Aug - still haven't gone out in her yet) has some long stress cracks on the deck around the mast step. I've recently noticed with the mast up in the yard that the area just around the mast step is very slightly sloped in, maybe that's how it's always been shaped? I've had the mast up while working on the little projects for a couple months now. The rigging has been tuned.

So I just got to the wiring job for the masthead light and vhf cable through the deck with a CableClam. I drilled a hole through the deck near the Mast Step and noticed that the wood layer was wet when I pulled out the drill. Not good. Water must have gotten in through the old wiring hole next to the step (picture is attached) which was "filled" with putty from PO.

So what am I looking at here? How bad could the situation be? I've filled the old hole with silicon and felt around for soft spots. The layer of wood seems so thin compared to the fiberglass layers... I really can't handle a job as big as replacing the wood layer. At this rate I'll never get on the water!

 

[Benny17441]

I would dry the wood around the hole with a heat blower and then I would fill the hole with liquid epoxy letting it soak in to the wood. After letting the epoxy dry for a couple of days I would finish it up with some gelcoat. I don't know if you intend to trailer the boat but if you are going to be connecting and disconnecting the mast wires with a ny frequency I would urge you use a watertight deck connector with a receptacle and a plug.

 

[Jackdaw]

Ouch. Job #1 for sure is to get to the extent of the wetness, and DRY IT OUT. This will take days or maybe weeks. The more warm dry air you can get in there, there better off you will be. I had a section of wet deck on a old S2. Used CPES from Rot Doctor. Awesome stuff. Read their web site, that have lots of tips on how to proceed. Its not a big or hard a job as it seems. But you'll want to get started on the drying ASAP.

http://www.rotdoctor.com/

A good guide is here. Scroll down to the part about repairing decks without removing the skin:
http://www.rotdoctor.com/glass/GLrotrepair.html

Oh, and get a proper deck gland for those wires. Who ever did that work did you no favors.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Deck repairs can be simple or hard. If the area of suspect is small, I have recommended putting a tarp over the boat unless inside a building and letting dry for several months or more as heating up the deck does not really do that much. If it is cold, you could put a heater inside of the boat which actually drys the deck out faster but you have to be careful if doing that. I did only when I was around but made sure the deck was covered by a tarp unless in the building. You can buy disposable syrenges. Heck, I use to go to the vet to buy them as I use to be out in the country back in Virginia. You can use what ever material you percieve the best but I was instructed to drill alot of holes in the affected area which to get the epoxy or what ever.
Instead of drilling so many holes, I use to take an air hose to help spread the material inside.

with the ACP when the deck had seperated or ACP seperated from the foaml, I went by the above method using gorilla glue and then spread it using an air hose over the few holes. Then with that material or ACP, it was weighted down for 24 hours. It worked.

If it is extensive, basically you will have to cut that portion of the top deck out removing the old coring and rebuilding and then the glass. In the area of nonskid, you can get reverse nonskid from the mfg... Then I would prep the area, apply gel coat and apply the reverse non skid for the new non skid surface. There are several steps to this but
tips from others to include the rot doctor are good but it all depends on the area affected and whether or not it is solid all the way thru to the inner cabin liner.

crazy dave

 

[cephius (Dave)]

All very good tips for a wet core.

You also might check your compression post in the cabin. If it can be adjusted up to take the depression out of the deck under your mast there will be less standing water to worry about.

NOTE: Loosen your standing rigging first.

 

[egodsey]

Last year I purchased a 1985 Hunter 25.5 ... and then spent several months refurbishing/refitting. Thus I have some appreciation for what you are going through. Two comments/suggestions:

1. For me, the single, most useful source of practical, how to, DIY advice has been Don Casey's "Complete Illustrated Sailboat Maintenance Manual. It is 892 pages long (including the index). And it covers essentially every aspect of sailboat maintenance ... except for outboard motors.

You can get clean used, copies on Amazon for less than $35. http://www.amazon.com/Caseys-Complete-Illustrated-Sailboat-Maintenance/dp/0071462848

If you are serious about doing your own maintenance on your Hunter 22, I suggest you get (and read) a copy of Don Casey's book.

FYI ... I have no dog in this hunt. I do not work for Amazon or for McGraw Hill (the publisher). And I am not on Don Casey's payroll.

2. These forums can be a great way to find sources and part numbers for replacement parts. This kind of help can save you a lot of time and money. But I suggest that you beware of guys who weigh in with opinions rather than actual experience. They can cause you to waste a lot of your time and money.

Regards,

E.