Is Shackeling Rode Chain Together A Good Idea?

Stu Jackson · Dec 18, 2011

Nope, other than having to wrestle another shackle over your bow roller. I used a connecting link to extend my chain length.

shemandr · Dec 18, 2011

I was told by a rep for well known marine supplier that a connector would not go through my SL windlass. It was his advice that if I wanted a 100' of chain, I should buy a 100' of chain.
I'd like to know how the connectors compare with chain in strength.I

Ken Cross · Dec 18, 2011

I don't think strength is a problem when it's a chain and rode combination. The chain is there for weight. Split links work well but may not be as good for resisting corrosion. The cure for that is replace the split links once in a while when they start to look bad. They should work in the windless.

Warren Milberg · Dec 18, 2011

I doubled the length of chain on my rode using a split link. I don't have a windlass to worry about so it worked well for me. I think Bacons in Annapolis has competitive prices on chain. Take a look at their website.

Chuckbear · Dec 18, 2011

we extended our chain using a C-Link of the same size as our chain. Anchored thousands of times, a few in hurricane conditions, in tens of thousands of miles and in every bottom type. The C-Link never failed and came through the windlass just like any other link. If they match the chain and are installed correctly there is no reason to have a problem with the windlass. Chuck

Stu Jackson · Dec 18, 2011

http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=845622&highlight=connecting link

thinwater · Dec 19, 2011

I have used both all-chain and mostly rope combinations.

a. It is about the strength. On a boat you size the normal rode will be near it's limit if you ever get caugth in a bad place in a thunderstorm. That is why it is sized that way. The coulple, whichever type, will be somewhat weaker and less dependable than the chain. Certainly no more dependable than rope!
b. Why more chain? There are few sharp objects in the Chesapeake; I've never scratched a rode in 25 years. If you already have some chain (enough to consider saving) you have what you need to keep the shank down. A bigger anchor is a better investment than more chain.
c. Any couple will be trouble in a windlass.
d. There is a LOT less shock absorption will all-chain. I have used both on the same boat.

With all of these down-sides and miniscule up-side, I think the choise is clear. Adding chain in this way will make the system worse.

I went to all-chain with my new anchor because the windlass handles it better, but I would not say I like all-chain better in all ways. I don't.

kenomac · Dec 19, 2011

"C" Link is fine

I connected two sections of chain one year ago, 150 ft & 100 ft to create a 100 percent chain rode using same size "C" link. We anchor all the time, and nothing beats the security of an oversized modern anchor like the Rocna and a chain rode. Works great everytime through the windlass, even better than when we had a chain/rope rode. I saw what can happen first hand with the combination rode when you least expect it... during a squall while at anchor. The harbor bottom nearly chewed through the rope where it attached to the chain... Not the sort of piece of mind I prefer to enable us to go ashore for a day at a time.

However, if you do go with all chain, a snubber is a necessity to eliminate the tugging and noise associated with chain running through the anchor roller. Chain should never be directly connected to the windlass without a snubber while at anchor, in order to prevent damage to the windlass.

An anchor snubber is simply: one of those jumbo bungie dock things attached to a length of rope at both ends and a chain hook at one of those ends. It acts like a big shock obsorber.... You won't even feel like you're at anchore when using one, no tugging or noise.

Stu Jackson · Dec 19, 2011

Another all chain or chain/rode discussion

One of the most important issues to deal with in this "either/or" discussion is the use of a snubber if you have all chain rode.

One of our C34 skippers sailed his boat from Vancouver, BC down to Mexico.

He filed this report after his first 1,500 miles:

The Rocna. All 20kg of it with 100ft of chain. The rest of the world can debate all they like. When I pull into a place like Bodega Bay at midnight and the fog is so thick I can't see the jetty 50 feet away to make an entrance, I drop my hook in the rolling ocean swells with the surf crashing (Foster says it's like staying in a cheap Best Western beside the highway), and I sleep. And in the morning I have a windlass to pull the beast up and I wouldn't trade it for anything. (I also wouldn't add more chain - this works perfectly in 25 to 30 feet of water - you let all the chain out and you tie off nylon at the preferred scope and don't bother with snubbers and chain hooks and all that stuff...)

This was our best upgrade.

Warren Milberg · Dec 19, 2011

I think the primary reason to add chain (as opposed to going to all chain) to one's line rode in a place like the Chesapeake is that it will allow you to use a lot less scope, and still anchor securely, in tight spots/gunkholes where putting out the "required" amount of all line rode may not be possible, feasible, or safe.

Windjammer III · Dec 19, 2011

When we purchased out boat in the Caribbean in 2008 I added a 33kg/72lb Rockna attached to 200’ (the boat’s original chain) which we use all the time. After a year I had an opportunity to purchase more tested chain of the same gauge so I now have 320’ of chain. I connected using a split link but one size larger so that the breaking strain of the chain was maintained. The anchor winch doesn’t like the oversize link coming through but it doesn’t stop it – it ‘accommodates’ it and the chain keeps coming up.
The end that’s attached to the anchor gets a pretty rough time dragging around on the sea bed (Caribbean, US East coast, Portugal) but I took the step to regalvanise all the chain this year and our 45lb Delta anchor (the original primary anchor). I replaced the split link. This is the boat’s fourth season since we bought it and we cruise six months each year, anchoring most of the time.
Providing the chain doesn’t become obviously weakened, and I inspect it at the end of each season, I intend, at this stage, to continue with this approach.
Would be interested to know if there is a general rule of thumb as to how often chain needs replacement vis a vis standing rigging recommended to be changed every 7-10 years.

thinwater · Dec 19, 2011

However, on the Bay, there is seldom reason to anchor...

Warren Milberg said:
I think the primary reason to add chain (as opposed to going to all chain) to one's line rode in a place like the Chesapeake is that it will allow you to use a lot less scope, and still anchor securely, in tight spots/gunkholes where putting out the "required" amount of all line rode may not be possible, feasible, or safe.

... in more than 10 feet of water, so about 60-100 feet of chain will do. If the OP has enough chain to bother saving (50 feet vs 10 feet), then he has enough. If he has only 10-20 feet of chain, pitch it and don't risk the weak link. That was my thinking.

Cutting is certainly vitally important in some areas. However it really is not in the Chesapeake and is not relavant to the OP.

A rubber snubber will take the jerk out of a few small wakes or minor harbor chop, but it won't do anything for real waves and storm gusts. In those cases 1-2 feet of stretch serves no purpose.

captmikem · Dec 19, 2011

On ships, anchor chain is sold in 15 fathom (90) foot lengths. each length is "shackled" to the other with a connector that is assembled with a pin and a small piece of lead is driven in the hole to secure the pin. When we anchor a ship, I call for "five shackles at the waterline" (or whatever the water depth dictates), normally ships carry 7 shot (shackles) on each side.

On the small boats we sail chain links are available. I have used Marquip links without any problem feeding on wildcat.

Captmike.

thinwater · Dec 20, 2011

Yup, I agree. More chain.

Joe Mullee said:
I think the primary reason to add chain (as opposed to going to all chain) to one's line rode in a place like the Chesapeake is that it will allow you to use a lot less scope, and still anchor securely, in tight spots/gunkholes where putting out the "required" amount of all line rode may not be possible, feasible, or safe.

Warren is spot on regarding my question. My current rode consists of 50' of chain and 250' of nylon line. Several times a season I wish I had a longer chain to be able to shorten scope in crowded anchorages. I usually get to places like the Inner Harbor, Annapolis, St Michaels, and Rock Hall each year. All of those places get crowded and a shorter scope would work well. I think more chain would be a better option for me.

Joe Mullee[/quote]

I had 50 feet until this year. It wasn't always enough, as you stated. I have 100 feet now, and have never used it all. However, with a draft of only 3.4 feet, I generally anchor shallow.

My main point is that a link might be trouble in the windlas, and if it puts more wear on the windlass or jam it, it's false economy. I would decide based upon whether you have a windlass.

Brian L.20665 · Dec 20, 2011

Mud, mud, glorious mud

A downside to using a lot of chain in the Chesapeake is mud loves to embed itself within the links. If you add chain be prepared to handle more mud that you are bringing aboard - I take time to spray with a washdown pump, which is tedious. I have 100' hi-test chain spliced to 200' nylon rode, all attached to a 25kg (55#) Rocna; handled by windlass. Seldom let enough rode out to reach the nylon part, almost always just use the chain. Love the setup esp in tight anchorages, love the holding, but don't like the mud (and the Rocna brings up a chunk too). Some anchorages seem way more muddy than others, e.g., the Rhode River around the islands, and the Corsica.

On my boat, if mud collects in the anchor locker, I have to eventually dig it all out since it blocks the drain at the bottom.