Wiring on the 336 and refridgeration

[neilmcc]

Wiring on the 336 and refrigeration

Back again...
I want to fit a fridge unit to the coolbox and various other electrical and electronic bits and pieces in my 336 and have a couple (lots) of questions.

Is the insulation around the coolbox sufficient to allow me just to fit a refrigeration unit to it?

There is a switch on the DC control pnel which is marked as 'refrigerator' but I don't have a clue where the wires run to or how to access them.
The DC switch panel has bundles of wires coming from the back of it and dissapearing up into the space. There are wires routed round to the other side of the boat but I don't know which are which.
Was there a standard wiring loom fitted with wires colour coded for each appliance and if so where can I find out what they are?

I am also looking to fit an Autopilot and would be grateful for anyone's thoughts and experiences of suitable equipment.

 

[Don12364]

Your manual should give an indication of where each cable runs. This is so also for the autopilot if it was an original fit - but I doubt it.
If your "Refrigerator" switch has wires already connected then the boat may have originally had a refrigerator - or somebody used the switch for another purpose.
A fridge motor would normally be close to the cold box and so I would start by looking for and tracing any cables in lockers which adjoin the cold box. e.g. under the sink. You only need + & - leads.

Also, in our climate, the builders installed insulation is just about sufficient; but if you can find a way of adding to this without having to tear the boat apart then it is a good idea to do it - likewise the hot tank or calorifier.
Places where the builder didn't seem to put much insulation on my boat was between the cold boxes and the hull.
Expanded polystyrene sheet from a builders merchants is good and cheap and comes in various thicknesses, as is loose fill polystyrene chips as used in packing.

 

[robertsapp]

Our 336 never had refrigeration, but it does have a factory installed breaker labeled "refigerator." I've always assumed that there was probably a dead-ended factory installed wire going from the breaker panel to the general area of the ice box, but since refrigeration isn't in our immediate future (making due with ice for now), I've never looked for it or stumbled across it. If I get a chance, I'll scan the wiring diagram from the owner's manual and post it, but I don't really think it will tell you much. Also, no idea how much insulation is there, it's another thing we've been meaning to investigate. Sometime, maybe this winter, I intend to open up the panel under the galley sink port side and see what's under the ice box. I know in mid-summer we have to add about 20 lbs of ice a day to the ice box to keep it cold, so a couple of cans of expanding spray foam would probably help.

 

[neilmcc]

I won't get back to the boat until Saturday but will do some serious rooting about then. Everything seems pretty well sealed but I will take some panels off and see what lies behind them.

 

[robertsapp]

I won't get back to the boat until Saturday but will do some serious rooting about then. Everything seems pretty well sealed but I will take some panels off and see what lies behind them.

You might be able to come in from the stove side if you remove the gimbled stove first. Not really sure if the panel there is removable but it might be. Coming in from under the sink like I mentioned will require you to cut an opening. When Hunter built the galley cabinetry, they completely enclosed the forward and inboard sides of the ice box. Getting under the ice box from inside the sink cabinet will require cutting out that panel. It's hidden inside the cabinet though, so I thought if I cut out an access panel, it would be no big deal to put some battens on it and screw it back into place when I was done under the ice box. Let me know what you find out.

 

[Benny17441]

The panel may have included a refrigerator breaker/switch to allow for an optional Dealer's install. It may have been pre-wired and the ends should be near the cooler in the galley. It would be advisable to beef up the insulation on your cooler box as it will directly impact your power consumption and compressor wear. For autopilot consider Raymarine SPX5. It is a reliable and economical unit well matched to boats under 16K lbs of displacement.

 

[Rick]

Neil, it would help a bit if I could see your galley area. My thought would be since the ice box is tough to get to from the sides, why not just remove it and see what is underneath. Do you have an opening top for your icebox. Robert may be able to chime in here because yours may be different from mine. As far as installation, I have my compressor in the storage immediately forward of the galley. In the pic you can see where the refer wires lead into the fridge area. Also if you have to run wires to it from the breaker, a nice clean run is down under the sole and across to the storage area.

Autopilot, there are a lot of good choices. My boat came with seatalk and the st4000+ series of tridata instruments which remarkably still work. The Mark3 wheel pilot is compatible with them and a good buy.

Some more info from you might be helpful. Good luck and let us know what we can do to help. Robert and I have had our 336's for a while and quite frankly know them pretty much from stem to stern.

Cheers

 

[neilmcc]

Thanks for the photo's,
I have ordered the fridge equipment with compressor and condenser unit (Weaco), I don't know if this is a universal system or only this side of the pond.
I will be at the boat on Saturday and will take some pictures once I do some investigation.
I also have on order a new Garmin GPS chartplotter, Raymarine SPX-5 Autopilot and Garmin wind, depth and speed unit which I need to fit in the next couple of months so wait for further questions.

 

[Rick]

Good enough Neil. Should be able to help if we can. Also, take a picture of your binnacle. Mounting a chartplotter on a 336 can be a bit of an ordeal.

Have a pretty long list of upgrades with photos. Robert and I have corresponded via email many time so that may be an option if you like.

Cheers

 

[Don12364]

Tip:-
The square unit contains a small radiator and a fan. This needs to dissipate its waste heat; so installing it in a closed locker very much reduces this heat removal and the compressor will run for longer, consuming much unnecessary battery power.
I had my unit installed in the locker next to the ice box and the under sink locker for the galley. It is hard against the common bulkhead between the locker and the sink unit. We cut an approx 6" square hole for the fan to blow the air through from locker to locker.
Then we cut 3 off 2" diameter holes in each of the locker floors where the locker overhangs the cabin sole so now cold air enters the main locker, passes through the radiator and out under the sink.
BTW - did similar to ventilate my battery locker too.

 

[neilmcc]

If this all works well, here are a few photographs. Three are of the binnacle, one of a still forlorne looking Hunter 336 and one of the birdsnest which is the wiring behind the switch panel.
I have established that there is no wiring attached to the refrigerator switch. I have looked again at the panels both in the under-sink cupboard and at the right hand side of the cooker. I will have to cut access hatches to get in to wire the fridge unit and route the power for the spark and light in the new stove further photo's and questions will follow.
The binnacle looks like a bit of a problem. I will have a chartplotter and autopilot control head to fit around there somewhere so any photo's of similar installations would be appreciated.

All the best,
Neil

 

[Bill Roosa]

Ad a pod to the front of the table

like this
Pay no attention to those silly folks in the picture. As you can plainly see they don't give a hoot about navigation.

 

[kloudie1]

Bill.. Those Pepto Bismal pink Crocks are the BOMB..

 

[robertsapp]

Here's where the previous owner put the autopilot control head on our boat. Not the location I might have picked, but actually it works pretty well there. It's easy to see and operate from the helm, and it isn't usually in the way when sitting down.

Oh, and I might suggest that you turn your traveler car around. Looks like the cams on yours face aft. On our boat, they're turned forward, where it's easy for the person working the jib sheets to reach, and still convenient to the helmsman. But that may just be what suits us best, and usually my wife helms and I'm at the companionway working all the lines.

 

[neilmcc]

I haven't sailed the boat at all yet and still have to replace the running rigging so I will bear the cam position in mind when I do.
The position of the navigation equipment looks like being a more difficult situation to deal with and some sort of pod system may have to be the answer. I have the autopilot control head and a 7” chartplotter to find a home for within reach of the helm. I sail the equivalent of single-handed most of the time so could do with them being close at hand. The Binnacle does not look suited to this sort of equipment but I wait to be shown the errors in my thinking, I hope….
Cheers,
Neil

 

[Rick]

She doesnt look like anything a little TLC cant solve. You just have some work ahead of you. I included a couple more pics with some thoughts. It appears you have a rigid vang. So your topping lift is just something else to foul the top of the high roach main when you tack. I keep mine secured up at the mast as a safety line for the bosuns chair. Should help with your running rigging budget too. Hull looks good as do the rubrails. Also see you have the shoal draft keel. Me too. Beware of kelp! It hangs up on it bigtime. And I sail in kelp central!

I included some pics.
1. Robert is most likely spot on about the traveler car, with individual taste in mind, although the race on the track is so short that it doesnt lend itself to being the part of sail trim that it is on other boats. You can also see my solution for stowing the excess mainsheet. Gets it up off the cockpit floor. Also I cant tell about the purchase you have on the mainsheet block but I recommend at least 6 to 1. That is a big sail. Dont let her slam when you jibe!

2. I have a 7 inch plotter also. Although the pod recommendation is sound, it may take a bit of doing and could be cumbersome for companionway entry. He has a bigger boat! I just adapted the mount to the cupholder in the binnacle. It works well and running wires is easy. Couldnt tell if you have ST4000 repeaters.

3. The electrical panel. Yeah unless your Fred Ficarra or Mainesail, its probably not that pretty. Mine isnt either haha.

4. Almost forgot. The fan on the frige works great. In previous post you can see it. Compressor controlled. I cut a hole and put a stainless vent cover on bench wall so it has good ventilation. Sea water pump standing by just in case. Unit is 16 years old and stays on all the time. Fan is a good way to go.


5. Did I mention, boats are not free?

So you have a ways to go but its gonna be alot of fun and sweat.

Keep the questions firing across the bow. Willling to help.

Cheers

 

[neilmcc]

She is getting and will continue to get lots of TLC.
The plan is to have her water-ready by the end of the year, although if last winter here was anything to go by she may have to stay put until spring.
I have ordered a pod which will hopefully take the chartplotter and the Raymarine 6002 control head which I intend to fit on the table top where the drinks holders are.
The fridge unit is on its way and I will take and post photographs as the installation proceeds.
Previous experience has divested me of any thoughts that anything other than the wind for sailing is free.....

I am off to sample some wine and food in France this weekend so nothing will happen until next week when more questions and photo's will follow.
Neil