Refrigeration

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Jun 25, 2009
542
Hunter 33 Seabrooke, Houston
All of a sudden, my priorities have changed: I had played with the idea of converting my ice box to a fridge one fine day in the future, but decided to do it myself.
I believe all I need most is to get hold of a refrigerator, gut it and then... what do I do?
I have a friend who did it, but he is very busy and I do not want to take up his time, so will rather bother all you great people
On his boat ( a H33-1980) he put the compressor under the stove, and it works well
I have a fridge which he gave me (it is on the quarter berth) for that purpose, but silly me got attached to it, and do not want to break it apart.
I looked up on Owner modifications, but the one I saw there is a fancy one (and expensive); so is there anything I need to get, maybe start there?
We have had 36 days over 100 degrees, and have not been able to do any work, but it will soon be better(?), so any help and pictures will help me do this
The ice box is of perfect size for this
Thank yopu, and sorry to get you good people out there obliging to my humble request
Incidently, the H33 I scavenged from at the salvage yard had a nice one... but since it sank, I could not use it
 
Jun 6, 2006
6,990
currently boatless wishing Harrington Harbor North, MD
It is all about the plumbing. The reefer you are going to modify will, no doubt, not have long tubing runs between the compressor, evaporator, and condensor. The exact configruation you need for the icebox is going to be dictated by this lack of tubing. so EVERYTHING will need to be in close proximity to EVERYTHING else.
The first question you need to answer is where can I put the compressor and condensor and still run the tubing for the evaporator inside the ice box.
I'm thinking that you also don't have space for the compressor and condensor right outside the icebox insulation so this is really going to be an exercise in shoehoring stuff.
Add to this the requriment to mount the evaporator high in the ice box so the cold air can flow down and you don't get the top being much warmer than the bottom. don't forget to consider how you get to the unit to maintenance it, get rid of the hot air from the condensor, run the electrical power..... Are you sure this is a good idea?

My opinion is you should just spend the money on a marine reefer system verses spend the money on Rube Goldburg-ing all the cabinets to get your free reefer to fit. You will be much happier with the final product.
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
When I bought my H37C in '98 it had the icebox and a dorm fridge. The previous owner liked his beer cold, took out the stove/oven, and mounted the fridge. It is surprisingly efficient through the inverter, about ten amps DC. But it only runs about twenty minutes an hour. Unless I am motoring I generally unplug it while away from shorepower. It will keep the contents cold all day even turned off.

I did install an Adler/Barbour refer in the icebox years ago. You can see that in the H37C Owner's Mods. That was a big project even with all the right components.
 

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Jun 2, 2004
217
Hunter 376 Oyster Bay, LI, NY
jorgefife, if you check the Boat Info tab at the top of the page, then go to Hunter Owner Modification button and then click on the "33_77-83" link you'll see how I added the Isotherm refrigeration unit to my 1981 H33.

If you go with the Isotherm unit, you'll have to haul the boat to change out the galley sink through-hull fitting to use their unit, but otherwise the install was extremely simple. I put the compressor in the under-seat locker just forward of the galley, drilled through to run the refrigerant lines into the reefer, installed the evaporator plate and called it a day. The only other "modification" was adding insulation to the underside of the wooden top, adding a piano hinge along the back, and positive locking cabinet lock to hold the top down and compress the gasket I added.

Worked like a charm and drew very little amperage.
 
Jun 25, 2009
542
Hunter 33 Seabrooke, Houston
jorgefife, if you check the Boat Info tab at the top of the page, then go to Hunter Owner Modification button and then click on the "33_77-83" link you'll see how I added the Isotherm refrigeration unit to my 1981 H33.

If you go with the Isotherm unit, you'll have to haul the boat to change out the galley sink through-hull fitting to use their unit, but otherwise the install was extremely simple. I put the compressor in the under-seat locker just forward of the galley, drilled through to run the refrigerant lines into the reefer, installed the evaporator plate and called it a day. The only other "modification" was adding insulation to the underside of the wooden top, adding a piano hinge along the back, and positive locking cabinet lock to hold the top down and compress the gasket I added.

Worked like a charm and drew very little amperage.

I could put the motor inside the locker just forward of the sink, port side; it would be in very close proximity of the ice box
I need to see how his is done, but it was easy from what he once said, and it is permanently iced up; I have piano hinges on the cover, and it looks like something that could be done
 

Blaise

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Jan 22, 2008
359
Hunter 37-cutter Bradenton
I have had an Adler-Barbour unit in Midnight Sun for thirty years. (not the same one, One died in a lightning strike in 1986, the next in 1999 of old age, and the current one going fine now) The installation was simple, and straight forward. The condenser unit is mounted over the top of what used to be the cockpit loading hatch for the icebox. The electrical hookup is directly to the back of the battery switch 8" away. The evaporator is mounted vertically in the deep part of the icebox. The only down side is that the unit comes with 15 feet of refrigerant lines, and you only need about 18 inches. I have the rest coiled up and secured on top of the compressor. By the way, I cut the run time down by more than half just by insulating the top of the icebox, including the lid. I used 1 and a half inch thick styrofoam. On the warmest setting it will still freeze beer in the bottom of the icebox in the summer in the tropics.
 
Jun 25, 2009
542
Hunter 33 Seabrooke, Houston
I have had an Adler-Barbour unit in Midnight Sun for thirty years. (not the same one, One died in a lightning strike in 1986, the next in 1999 of old age, and the current one going fine now) The installation was simple, and straight forward. The condenser unit is mounted over the top of what used to be the cockpit loading hatch for the icebox. The electrical hookup is directly to the back of the battery switch 8" away. The evaporator is mounted vertically in the deep part of the icebox. The only down side is that the unit comes with 15 feet of refrigerant lines, and you only need about 18 inches. I have the rest coiled up and secured on top of the compressor. By the way, I cut the run time down by more than half just by insulating the top of the icebox, including the lid. I used 1 and a half inch thick styrofoam. On the warmest setting it will still freeze beer in the bottom of the icebox in the summer in the tropics.

Blaise,
Thanks for your response; did you also have a H33? Any chance you may have pictures?
My battery switch is mounted near the engine on the other side... where did you run the wires? And where is the compressor?
 
Jun 25, 2009
542
Hunter 33 Seabrooke, Houston
Blaise' installation is identical to mine with a couple of small exceptions. I put mine against the bulkhead so that intake air comes from the cabin. And I put in a breaker switch right over the fridge.
http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...&cat_id=38&aid=7309&page=article&mn=37-cutter
Ed and Blaise,
I solemly promise not to bug you to death, but here goes:
I studied Ed's pictures very carefully, and here are my questions:
If you are familiar with the configuration of the H33, the condensor would be much like in the same place as yours.
The compressor should be forward of it, inside the setee locker directly in front of the sink; the vent, as you say, should not aerate the inside locker, but rather outside.
Where do you suggest?
Because the boat is not quite like yours...
I feel this is something I can do, already have a condenser and a motor
I like the switch and the other "goody" from Blue Sea
 
Jun 25, 2009
542
Hunter 33 Seabrooke, Houston
Ed and Blaise,
I solemly promise not to bug you to death, but here goes:
I studied Ed's pictures very carefully, and here are my questions:
If you are familiar with the configuration of the H33, the condensor would be much like in the same place as yours.
The compressor should be forward of it, inside the setee locker directly in front of the sink; the vent, as you say, should not aerate the inside locker, but rather outside.
Where do you suggest?
Because the boat is not quite like yours...
I feel this is something I can do, already have a condenser and a motor
I like the switch and the other "goody" from Blue Sea
Ed,
I had a closer look at your picture on the 25th. and there I can see where your switch and vent are positioned: directly in front of the ice box
On my boat, that same a rea is opened and it leads into the galley table and port side; I have to figure out where to install mine; maybe even construct a box in wood ( got plenty of that) and install switch in it.
Then put compressor below it, inside locker
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
A hundred years ago I was on an H33, Paul F's. Now from this picture( http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...=278&pid=8505&page=sshow&mn=33_77-83&catid=73) I see your dilemma. And I go back to previous advice, you need a good marine unit. Do you really want the heat from the condensor in the cabin? If you don't mind then is there room under that cabinetry? With a new unit you would have long tubing and can put the compressor/condensor unit aft in a locker. Or you could purchase one of the water-cooled models. Then you could install anywhere inside the boat, the heat goes out with the water. However you proceed we would like to see pictures.
 
Jun 25, 2009
542
Hunter 33 Seabrooke, Houston
A hundred years ago I was on an H33, Paul F's. Now from this picture( http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...=278&pid=8505&page=sshow&mn=33_77-83&catid=73) I see your dilemma. And I go back to previous advice, you need a good marine unit. Do you really want the heat from the condensor in the cabin? If you don't mind then is there room under that cabinetry? With a new unit you would have long tubing and can put the compressor/condensor unit aft in a locker. Or you could purchase one of the water-cooled models. Then you could install anywhere inside the boat, the heat goes out with the water. However you proceed we would like to see pictures.
Thank you Ed: I will post pictures of the progress
I had seen that interior, and it was after looking at them that prompted me to remove the smelly bulkhead carpet and replace with ceder: someone I know sells aromatic cedar panels, 4" x 8 feet for $ 3.00 a piece (was $4) so I replaced all that junk with ceder panels (thjey are tongue in groove); did both sides and V berth, next I want to remove the small fridge I have next to the stove, do the quarterbeth in ceder and complete the job
I have a locker opened on both sides directly above the sink, but otherwise it is the same boat.
Apologize for all the silly questions, but rather than spend the rest of my youth(?) researching, pointing me out in the right direction saves a lot of time.
Now look at me next question under the heading" Jib"
Thank you all
 
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