Attaching fixtures to the gunnels

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May 22, 2011
159
MacGregor 25 San Diego
I need to attach two cam cleats to the gunnels of my M25. What is the best way to do it? I also have a swivel block with cam cleats and fairlead that I need to attach on the gunnel near the stern.
All help appreciated.

Dave
 
Feb 20, 2011
8,062
Island Packet 35 Tucson, AZ/San Carlos, MX
It's nice to have two people, one above and one below, to fasten newly-gooped hardware. The guy on top keeps the fastener from turning while the other tightens from underneath. I assume you'll be backing these fixtures with something?

How'd your mast-raising system turn out?
 
May 22, 2011
159
MacGregor 25 San Diego
I'd like to find a "small" person to get back under there, for sure, for sure. Short of that, would expanding wallboard plug type screws work? I'm not sure what to back them with. I do have some 1/8" aluminum bar stock that might be good.

Re: the mast raising system: I had it set up just as pictured on this site, BUT I had the %#@**% gin pole leaning AFT, not forward. Practically impossible for it to work that way. MUCH easier with the gin pole leaning slightly to the bow. Silly me! Live and learn. I owe much thanks to the Venture Yacht Club of San Diego for inviting Lynn and I down to watch them rig and launch their boats; that's where I learned the error of my ways. We are joining them, too. A great bunch of folks! Thanks, guys.
 
Feb 20, 2011
8,062
Island Packet 35 Tucson, AZ/San Carlos, MX
I prefer having my wife topside while I tighten (gettin' racy here!). I'm 5' 9", 175 lbs. and not as flexible as I used to be, but it's do-able. For me, the worst part of accessing the area under the cockpit was the extraction of the foam blocks. I had to saw some of them in half to finagle them out. The next worst part was getting myself out.
The expanding wall plug idea may not allow the sealant to bed properly, as you're spinning the fastener in the goop, possibly compromising the seal on the threads of your fastener.
A thing is conventional because it works. Any deviation from that is at your own (and the crew's) risk.

I'm sure the yacht club will be a great help along the road.

Seems wierd that the minor rake of the gin pole would cause such difficulties!
 
Jul 29, 2010
1,392
Macgregor 76 V-25 #928 Lake Mead, Nevada
Venture club in SD are a great bunch. They can probably help you with your situation. I have reinforced any deck hardware I have installed with heavy backing plates. I have seen hardware ripped out of the deck. Best advice, stainless steel bolts with backing plates, washer and nylon locking nuts. Anything else will bite you in the butt later. As far as getting under find a kid who can use a socket wrench and buy him a cookie.:D Fair Winds and Full Sails....
 
Feb 20, 2011
8,062
Island Packet 35 Tucson, AZ/San Carlos, MX
Venture club in SD are a great bunch. They can probably help you with your situation. I have reinforced any deck hardware I have installed with heavy backing plates. I have seen hardware ripped out of the deck. Best advice, stainless steel bolts with backing plates, washer and nylon locking nuts. Anything else will bite you in the butt later. As far as getting under find a kid who can use a socket wrench and buy him a cookie.:D Fair Winds and Full Sails....
And maybe teach that kid a thing or two about torque, or let him use a torque wrench? ;)
 
May 22, 2011
159
MacGregor 25 San Diego
Well . . . I made backing plates of 1/8" aluminum stock for all three items. Now if I can just find a skinny midget . . . . .LOL

Thanks to everyone for the help. It's always appreciated, believe me.

Dave
 
May 22, 2011
159
MacGregor 25 San Diego
Well . . . . I got ready to install the port block (with fairlead and cam clamp). Lynn cleaned out the "cubby" on the port side and I took a look. There is a fiberglass wall there, just on the port side, about halfway back of the depth of the cockpit. Is this normal???
I think I'll have to go through the starboard side, move out a bunch of foam blocks and who knows what else to get to where I want to install the block. Has anyone done this before?
I'm thinking I might have to remove the rear cabin bulkhead as well. Any advice?
 
Feb 20, 2011
8,062
Island Packet 35 Tucson, AZ/San Carlos, MX
Well . . . . I got ready to install the port block (with fairlead and cam clamp). Lynn cleaned out the "cubby" on the port side and I took a look. There is a fiberglass wall there, just on the port side, about halfway back of the depth of the cockpit. Is this normal???
I think I'll have to go through the starboard side, move out a bunch of foam blocks and who knows what else to get to where I want to install the block. Has anyone done this before?
I'm thinking I might have to remove the rear cabin bulkhead as well. Any advice?
Yep. If you re-read this thread, you'll see my previous post regarding the sawing of foam blocks.
Does your rear bulkhead extend all the way to the starboard hull liner? Mine does not. I just removed the small plywood piece with the "U" cutouts under the starboard cockpit seat (lazarette?). It keeps the blocks from floating out when you sink the boat. When you get enough room in there, try to get a big piece of cardboard or something in there you can lay on. That fiberglass is kind of irritating. G'luck.
 
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May 22, 2011
159
MacGregor 25 San Diego
It is finished! I enlisted the aid of one of my neighbors, a much younger, much, much more limber young man than I. We had to take all the flotation blocks out to get to the port stern area; what a mess! But we got it done. All fixtures are now installed, with backer plates.
The rear bulkhead is like the others, only on the port side, thank goodness. I hope to never go through that again, for sure, for sure.
We got a neat bimini installed the other day; it's kinda in the way until the mast is raised, then it's quite pleasant.
My thanks to everyone that responded. What a good group!

Dave
 
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