I just thought I'd mention some simple things to check after taking apart 2 oday 22's. I've noticed that on both boats the drain tube that goes from the cockpit to the transom had cracked. This was allowing water to go into the foam under the cockpit which then drains forward into the keel under the cabin floor.
The '72 had the tube replaced once already and it was glassed in nicely, unfortunately they chose too brittle a plastic and it cracked again. The '76 had it replaced with modern thicker PVC, which is holding nicely, but it was glassed in like crap and poorly sealed so it leaks now.
The other thing I noticed is Oday used the cheapest crap foam they could find on both boats, it gets eaten by just about any chemicals it looks like, plus its open cell foam so it absorbs and retains water amazingly well and then molds. On both boats I had to throw away the bottom 2 layers of foam under the cockpit which seems to be the wettest area in them. They were totally waterlogged and never dried. I will be eventually replacing all the foam with closed cell (non absorbing) probably of the sort used in residential construction sold in 4x8 sheets. I will be making sure there is an open drainage channel down the middle on the bottom too. I'm poor enough that I will likely only replace the bottom few rows below the cockpit for now since that was the only problem area.
Both boats had keel damage from water intrusion. Long story short its a rather crappy design, water gets in above the keel easy by design. The keel is supposed to be sealed to prevent water getting into it and doing damage, but with age and keel flex or even one freeze thaw cycle of the water on top, it breaks the seal and then you have water in the keel which is extremely hard to get out of there. On the 72 the lead weight was only in the forward 50% or so of the keel and the rear portion was all hollow except for the bottom sole of the keel which was about 4" consisting of a thick fiberglass layer with a butt-load of epoxy or resin poured in on top of it. The rear area filled completely with water, and the previous owner had cut through the sub-floor below the cabin floor to pump it out.
The '76 seems to be designed somewhat different as the keel top seems to be an epoxy layer rather than a fiberglass sub-floor pan, I will be drilling a test hole to see if the keel is hollow underneath at a later date. There is a crack running down both sides of the epoxy cap where it separated from the fiberglass keel sides, and that allowed water into the keel which has already caused some freeze damage. I can't get it properly dried enough to even repair it and the cracks appear to extend forward most of the length of the keel so the whole interior floor would in theory have to come out to fix it which is basically impossible. I will be posting more of the pictures I have taken so people can see exactly how the keels are put together, but basically the most important lesson is to use that hole in the aft cabin floor area to keep the under floor bilge always dry or all hell breaks loose in the keel. Or better yet keep all the water out to start with.
The '72 had the tube replaced once already and it was glassed in nicely, unfortunately they chose too brittle a plastic and it cracked again. The '76 had it replaced with modern thicker PVC, which is holding nicely, but it was glassed in like crap and poorly sealed so it leaks now.
The other thing I noticed is Oday used the cheapest crap foam they could find on both boats, it gets eaten by just about any chemicals it looks like, plus its open cell foam so it absorbs and retains water amazingly well and then molds. On both boats I had to throw away the bottom 2 layers of foam under the cockpit which seems to be the wettest area in them. They were totally waterlogged and never dried. I will be eventually replacing all the foam with closed cell (non absorbing) probably of the sort used in residential construction sold in 4x8 sheets. I will be making sure there is an open drainage channel down the middle on the bottom too. I'm poor enough that I will likely only replace the bottom few rows below the cockpit for now since that was the only problem area.
Both boats had keel damage from water intrusion. Long story short its a rather crappy design, water gets in above the keel easy by design. The keel is supposed to be sealed to prevent water getting into it and doing damage, but with age and keel flex or even one freeze thaw cycle of the water on top, it breaks the seal and then you have water in the keel which is extremely hard to get out of there. On the 72 the lead weight was only in the forward 50% or so of the keel and the rear portion was all hollow except for the bottom sole of the keel which was about 4" consisting of a thick fiberglass layer with a butt-load of epoxy or resin poured in on top of it. The rear area filled completely with water, and the previous owner had cut through the sub-floor below the cabin floor to pump it out.
The '76 seems to be designed somewhat different as the keel top seems to be an epoxy layer rather than a fiberglass sub-floor pan, I will be drilling a test hole to see if the keel is hollow underneath at a later date. There is a crack running down both sides of the epoxy cap where it separated from the fiberglass keel sides, and that allowed water into the keel which has already caused some freeze damage. I can't get it properly dried enough to even repair it and the cracks appear to extend forward most of the length of the keel so the whole interior floor would in theory have to come out to fix it which is basically impossible. I will be posting more of the pictures I have taken so people can see exactly how the keels are put together, but basically the most important lesson is to use that hole in the aft cabin floor area to keep the under floor bilge always dry or all hell breaks loose in the keel. Or better yet keep all the water out to start with.
