Now into H23 refit and have questions: rudder and rigging

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Bkraut

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Jul 11, 2011
8
Hunter 23 Mystic, CT
Just a few questions for now:

1. how is the line to the rudder supposed to be rigged? What is the purpose? Will it pull the rudder into the up position and hold it?

2. The rudder brochure says to only paint it with white anti-fouling. Anyone have problems using other colors (red for example, since i have a gallon of it...)

3. Anyone have a rigging diagram or owner's manual? I saw the link for the newer Hunters but haven't been able to find one for the 86.

Thanks!
 

Bkraut

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Jul 11, 2011
8
Hunter 23 Mystic, CT
Re: Now into H23 refit and have questions: rudder and riggin

I found the rudder diagram on ayesail, along with the owner's manual, but there's really not much on the running rigging. Anyone have another site to check or pictures of how to set up the running rigging?
 

Kermit

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Jul 31, 2010
5,721
AquaCat 12.5 17342 Wateree Lake, SC
Just a few questions for now:

1. how is the line to the rudder supposed to be rigged? What is the purpose? Will it pull the rudder into the up position and hold it?

Thanks!
Will try to get pictures of the rudder for you today. Until then, you pull the line up to pull the rudder blade down. The blade should float up when the tension is released.

Kermit
 

Kermit

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Jul 31, 2010
5,721
AquaCat 12.5 17342 Wateree Lake, SC
Broken promise

Will try to get pictures of the rudder for you today. Until then, you pull the line up to pull the rudder blade down. The blade should float up when the tension is released.

Kermit
Sailed yesterday and even told my first mate I needed to take a picture for you. Promptly forgot while having a nice cold Shock Top at the dock. Sorry for the broken promise. I'll be up there this weekend and will try to get it for you. In the meantime, does anyone else have a picture to share?

Kermit
 
Feb 26, 2009
716
Oday 30 Anchor Yacht Club, Bristol PA
Re: Now into H23 refit and have questions: rudder and riggin

I had an H 23, the rudder floats when not secured in the down position. Mine had a block and cleat so it could be pulled DOWN. The the line was then cleated. The trouble will happen if the rudder is hit and made to swing up. something will break.. hopefully the line or the cleat. So you may want to keep that in mind if yours is the same.
 
Mar 2, 2011
489
Compac 14 Charleston, SC
I refitted my H23 rudder with a bungee cord instead of rope. It hold it down but allows the rudder to move back if I hit something solid. I'll post pics soon.
 
Apr 27, 2010
1,279
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
Re: Now into H23 refit and have questions: rudder and riggin

On the rudder line - no new info here, but line attaches to u-bolt on rudder, runs through sheave on rudder aluminum housing, and through cam cleat - pulling (hard) swings rudder down and cam cleat locks it down.
Mine has no anti-fouling. I repaired a bunch of gouges from prev ownership with West epoxy/filler, then coated with 2-part barrier coat (maybe not needed, kind of a pain to use) and then this year with a smoother coat of one-part epoxy paint, all white. I'm in a fresh water lake, so don't use anti-fouling. I'd ask whatever company created the brochure what the problem with non-white paint is.
I have never seen any rigging diagram, even in the Hunter owners' manual (if you can call it that). Any specific questions?
Peter
 

MrUnix

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Mar 24, 2010
626
Hunter 23 Gainesville, FL
I repaired a bunch of gouges from prev ownership with West epoxy/filler, then coated with 2-part barrier coat (maybe not needed, kind of a pain to use) and then this year with a smoother coat of one-part epoxy paint, all white.
I just got finished repairing the rudder blade on my H23.. it was in pretty bad shape; the seam was splitting exposing the foam core, and it had lots of dings, chips, gouges, prop damage and the pivot holes were damaged. Instead of painting, I restored it back to a gelcoat finish, removing the seam 'lip', rounding the leading edge and generally making it more hydrodynamic. Turned out pretty darn good. Attached are a couple of before/after shots. Link above is to the whole story, documenting the process from start to finish :)

As for rigging.. it is pretty straightforward and standard. However, over the years, most of these boats have been altered in one way or another by previous owners, so your configuration might not be stock. Specific questions would be better, and questions with attached pictures even better!

Cheers,
Brad
 

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Apr 27, 2010
1,279
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
Re: Now into H23 refit and have questions: rudder and riggin

Nice job, Brad! Mine came out similarly, though maybe not so slick. I didn't have the split seam issue, bit the PO had gouged it quite a bit.

My rudder bolt pivot hole had been "ovalized", so I drilled it out larger and filled with straight epoxy, no filler, then drilled the proper hole. I first put a wood dowel down, so the hole would be more or less correct. Worked OK, not superb. How did you handle the pivot hole repair?

I wouldn't mind an Ida rudder, but not at that cost - my sweat equity and the maybe $30 of materials was a lot less.
 

Bkraut

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Jul 11, 2011
8
Hunter 23 Mystic, CT
Thanks for all of the info. Incredible work on that rudder, Brad. I just sealed the edges with 5100 and put antifouling on it. I pulled all of the running rigging off the mast and re-rigged it. I think my remaining questions are about the boom rigging--main sail, traveler, etc. I imagine i'll figure it out once the boom is on the mast, but it's hard to envision when it's not in place.
 

MrUnix

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Mar 24, 2010
626
Hunter 23 Gainesville, FL
My rudder bolt pivot hole had been "ovalized", so I drilled it out larger and filled with straight epoxy, no filler, then drilled the proper hole. I first put a wood dowel down, so the hole would be more or less correct. Worked OK, not superb. How did you handle the pivot hole repair?
I did pretty much the same thing, but not all the way through. On each side I ground out about an inch in diameter around the hole, and about an inch or more deep. Put a metal rod covered with plastic in the hole so it would maintain the correct position and then filled with epoxy. That gives me about an inch long epoxy bushing on each side of the blade, which is considerably better than what it was originally. Covered everything up with gelcoat to make it look purdy :D

Cheers,
Brad
 

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