Just bought my first boat - an '87 Catalina 27 with Universal M-18 diesel, in as-is condition on the hard where she'd been for five years. Seller testified engine ran at haul-out and was winterized (antifreeze in sea water lines, which was in evidence at the strainer).
After changing filters and fluids and impeller and such, and before intending an actual start, we attached the batteries to make sure she'd at least turn over before moving her to water. (Regrettably we didn't try to turn the shaft mechanically first, so there's no knowing if she was seized at this point or not.)
From my perspective as the one pushing the start button (no glow) after the fuel pump pressurized on the ignition key turn to on, I just heard the solenoid click on and the starter strain. The mechanic helping me said the engine did one half revolution and stopped, but he didn't seem certain of this.
The upshot, however, is that there is zero movement in the crank shaft when turning it mechanically (socket, via the prop - transmission works correctly). So one of two conditions exist:
1. She was seized from the outset and the mechanic only thought he saw movement. In this case, I assume either the pistons are rusted from water entry; the cylinders are both full of fluid (incompressible), or...? Ideas?
2. She did turn half a rotation and stop. But how and why? And why wouldn't it be possible to turn the shaft back? Valves? No idea.
Additional information:
The engine is very clean and looks perfect from the outside. No evidence of damage anywhere. There is some white, powdery corrosion at the back right (exit side?) of the heat exchanger, looks like at a gasket, that may indicate a bleed-out of antifreeze, but not sure.
Coolant level was down about one quart from overflow level.
The oil change indicated nothing unusual. Oil level was normal before change. Oil was black, normal viscosity, no evidence of contamination of any sort.
I have very little access to experienced help here in... Santa Fe, New Mexico, and I'd like not to double the cost of the boat in solving this issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
So my questions are:
1. Is there some stupidly obvious solution? (Yes, I've tried to turn the shaft with the decompression valve open.)
2. Is there anything else to try or do before opening the engine?
3. And if we open the engine, where to begin? Glow plugs? Would there be an order of solutions to explore? What would be the easiest way to determine if there is fluid or rust in the cylinders? Might an anti-seize product be tried if rust is present?
4. Is there anything to try before pulling the engine or should I just bite the bullet and do that right away?
5. Has anyone had this experience and how did it resolve?
6. Can anyone point me towards the right resources to solve this?
7. Are there any other questions I should be asking?
Many thanks in advance,
Chris.
After changing filters and fluids and impeller and such, and before intending an actual start, we attached the batteries to make sure she'd at least turn over before moving her to water. (Regrettably we didn't try to turn the shaft mechanically first, so there's no knowing if she was seized at this point or not.)
From my perspective as the one pushing the start button (no glow) after the fuel pump pressurized on the ignition key turn to on, I just heard the solenoid click on and the starter strain. The mechanic helping me said the engine did one half revolution and stopped, but he didn't seem certain of this.
The upshot, however, is that there is zero movement in the crank shaft when turning it mechanically (socket, via the prop - transmission works correctly). So one of two conditions exist:
1. She was seized from the outset and the mechanic only thought he saw movement. In this case, I assume either the pistons are rusted from water entry; the cylinders are both full of fluid (incompressible), or...? Ideas?
2. She did turn half a rotation and stop. But how and why? And why wouldn't it be possible to turn the shaft back? Valves? No idea.
Additional information:
The engine is very clean and looks perfect from the outside. No evidence of damage anywhere. There is some white, powdery corrosion at the back right (exit side?) of the heat exchanger, looks like at a gasket, that may indicate a bleed-out of antifreeze, but not sure.
Coolant level was down about one quart from overflow level.
The oil change indicated nothing unusual. Oil level was normal before change. Oil was black, normal viscosity, no evidence of contamination of any sort.
I have very little access to experienced help here in... Santa Fe, New Mexico, and I'd like not to double the cost of the boat in solving this issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
So my questions are:
1. Is there some stupidly obvious solution? (Yes, I've tried to turn the shaft with the decompression valve open.)
2. Is there anything else to try or do before opening the engine?
3. And if we open the engine, where to begin? Glow plugs? Would there be an order of solutions to explore? What would be the easiest way to determine if there is fluid or rust in the cylinders? Might an anti-seize product be tried if rust is present?
4. Is there anything to try before pulling the engine or should I just bite the bullet and do that right away?
5. Has anyone had this experience and how did it resolve?
6. Can anyone point me towards the right resources to solve this?
7. Are there any other questions I should be asking?
Many thanks in advance,
Chris.
