Removing the Hatch
- Thread starter Red Ryder
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That's an easy one. Been there and done that at least a couple of times.
You're going to need a blow torch to heat the blade of your putty knife or whatever you can use to separate the caulking. Hot air from a hair drier applied to the flange could hasten the process of loosening the caulking. I used two putty knives. One with a wide blade and another one as a wedge to keep the flange open as I ran the other putty knife into the caulking between the flange. I also use a long thin blade knife that my father in-law made years ago for cutting meat. I was able to heat the blade and work it between the hatch flange and the forward deck opening. Try to use the heated blades to work them into the caulking in between the flange and the hatch opening. Luthiers have used this process for years in removing the necks off guitars bonded with hyde glue. I figured that if it works on a guitar neck, it'll work on a hatch.
The first thing you need to do is remove the cover and you can do that with an Allan wrench and for removing the pins, a long thin drift pin punch with a hammer. These small pins have tiny ridges that are designed to bite into the plastic part of the hinge and also the adjusters, so they need to be removed from the side where the ridge is.
There is also a square ring that fits over the flange of the hatch inside the cabin that will need to be removed.
One of my friends just bought a new hatch of Rudy at D&R Marine for his 86 O'Day 222 last week and he had some guy at his marina install it for him.
I rebuilt my hatch from a similar used hatch that I bought off Rudy several years ago. The first time I had problems with my hatch, the lens cracked, so I went to a plastic lens factory in my area and had the guy cut me a new one out of a thicker lexan and I installed it myself.
Then one of the hold down knob parts on the cover broke and that's when I rebuilt it again with the hatch that I bought off Rudy. Only the lens had a tiny crack, so I used the Lens that I had bought and rebuilt the hatch.
You're going to need Dow Corning 795 caulking for your new hatch. I wouldn't use silicon because it really doesn't stick all that well even though it's kind to to plastic. Polysulfides are harmful to plastic so you don't want to use that either.
There's no doubt about it. Gray Marine hatches were junky but I've managed to keep mine working by cleaning the metal bolts and keeping them lubed. I keep reminding my grandchildren to be careful of the hatch and don't stand on it. The DC 795 tube that I bought off Rudy has lasted many years. I just used it three weeks ago when I installed a small Beckson Deck Plate in my fuel locker and also two fair leads on my sliding hatch to tie off my Stern's Sun-shower bag. The deck plate gained access to a small jam cleat that I just installed near my stern rail for my CDI Roller Furler. As long as you seal the caulking tube good and store it in a cool place, it will last for years. Good luck with the hatch!
Joe
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My pleasure Jay. It's going to be hard getting at it because the hatch is recessed but if you take your time you'll be able to remove it.
Years ago, I took a trip to Defender Marine in CT with my friend Walter to check the place out. I bought a forward hatch while I was in there and I thought sure it would fit. I brought it down to the club and started to remove my hatch as the boat sat on the trailer in the lot. When I finally got the hatch off, I was going to throw it to the ground and then I had second thoughts about doing that. Well the new Bomar hatch didn't fit the opening. It was a shade too small for it. I wound up putting my old hatch back on and I took a ride to Defender to return the hatch. That company won't reimburse you your money right away. I had to wait over one week to get my money back. I'm glad that I decided to rebuild my old hatch. Like I said. They made a cheap hatch for these boats. The cheap plastic knobs are pressed on to threaded metal inserts and you can't put a lot of strain on them when you tighten them up or they'll break.
I almost bought a used Aluminum Numar forward hatch at a marine consignment store in Newport RI, but the opening wasn't large enough for me to fit through it. A lot depends on the placement of the hatch hinge too. So I'm happy for now as long as it works OK and doesn't leak. Good luck!
Joe
Debonding agent
This product is hard to find, I order direct from company, Mr. King:
http://www.debondcorp.com/contact_informationx.htm
It has to soak or give it some time. Then use Joe's warm knife.
Ed K
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This product is hard to find, I order direct from company, Mr. King:
http://www.debondcorp.com/contact_informationx.htm
It has to soak or give it some time. Then use Joe's warm knife.
Ed K
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Go to the Catalina Yachts website, sales1@catalinadirect.com, and order Item #Z2852, Marine Sealant Debond Kit, $15.75. There is enough in 1 kit to remove several front hatches on a 222, plus some left over. Remove all the sex bolts (2 part bolts holding the hatch to the hull, yep that's what they are called). Use a sharp utility knife and run it around the edge of the hatch frame on the outside, your goal is to cut into the sealant just enough to pierce the outer skin. Spray on the Catalina Debond, use it very sparingly, it goes a long ways, wait 3-5 minutes, and you should be able to lift off the hatch with little effort. Stubborn areas may need another small spray. Once the hatch is off, spray a little more Debond on any hatch or boat surface, wait 3-5 minutes and use the plastic scraper that comes in the kit to remove the remaining sealant. The Debond Kit says to use standard rubbing alcohol on the surfaces to remove the debond and neutralize the action. And, that is what I used. This is great stuff, right there next to sliced bread great. I just removed and reset my front hatch, several deck fittings and a couple of leaking stanchions. I'm amazed how this stuff works. And, do use it sparingly, the sealant just needs to be wetted, it goes a long way. I ordered 2 kits, and I still have 1/2 of the first kit left. I guess I'm set for life, ha,ha.
One last thing. My inner trim ring was broken into several pieces when I removed the bolts. I tried Locktite super glue on the broken edges, putting waxed paper under the joint so I wouldn't glue the frame to the work-table, let it set for about 15 minutes, and was able to (tenderly) reinstall the inner frame in one piece. Don't forget to put a small dab of sealant in each bolt hole just before pushing in the exterior portion of the sex bolt, as around the bolt heads is another place where the front hatch can leak.
I have removed the caulking under the plastic flange area of the hatch frame. Any suggestions on how to separate the upper and lower parts of the hatch. I have remove all the screws. Are they sealed together with caulking? Thanks for any help.
There is a square plastic ring that fits over the hatch flange inside the cabin which needs to be removed. I would use a putty knife to get in between it and the flange along with some heat from a hair drier.
Red,
Use whatever you have on hand to remove that ring. I used two putty knives. I heated one blade up and worked it in there and left it in as a wedge. Then I used the other putty knife to open it up more while sliding the other putty knife ahead.
If you decide to use that ring again, that ring only goes on one way in order for the holes to line up. You may want to mark it before removing it. Of course the holes in your new hatch aren't going to match up anyway.
You may be better off making a new ring out of Teak for the inside of your hatch. You could glue Velcro to the edge of a square fiberglass mesh screen and also glue the mating fabric to the Teak for those times when you have the hatch open in mosquito infested anchorages. I use something similar on my boat and the screen folds up nice and compact for stowing when not in use. Good luck with that.
Joe
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